Husqvarna 2100 Jungle Type

[turtle561]

this is a tilly 136c w/ governor valve on a 298xp- my 2100cd has a 136e wo/governor

to disable gov block hole #4 which dumps fuel into venturi and causes it to 4stroke-limiting rpms

punch out a disc of thin copper or aluminum pie tin to block #4-a dab of grease will keep it on the end of the valve til you screw it back in.leave the original sealing ring in place. holes #3 must remain unobstructed for normal fuel flow.

 

[husq2100]

I went and checked this muffler and it looks factory. It is missing the plate,but the indent for it is stamped in the muffler. AM? mabey,but it is a duel port This is going on a 2100 thin ring that I'm trying to get rebuilt for the Mo. gtg next month.

When you say it is missing the plate, do you mean just the louvre plate? is there an actual hole into the muffler at the front? Can you post some pics? This could become a good reference thread.

 

[husq2100]

Turtle561, good stuff again mate. Do you know if the HS 136E came original on your 2100cd? I can only find listings for HS 136C right through, including all the 2101's

 

[Mo. Jim]

When you say it is missing the plate, do you mean just the louvre plate? is there an actual hole into the muffler at the front? Can you post some pics? This could become a good reference thread.

Yes the louvre plate and fire screen are missing,the hole and indent look factory stamped. I will try and get a friend to take and post some pictures the first of the week.

 

[turtle561]

husq2100-i think my saw is one of the hybrids you talked about. it does have the two long case bolts on the bottom you mentioned. the i.d. plate is missing.
the 136e is the carb that was on it. i have only had it 2 years. the full # is hs136e724.

 

[dynodave]

HUSKY 56x40 & Rev#

HUSKY 56x40 & Rev#

1100CD-73-03 #
1100CD-75-08 #
1100CD-76-11 #
2100CD-76-12 @
2100CD-78-01 @
2100CD-78-09 @
2100CD-79-06 @
2100CD-79-12 @
2100-82-11 %
2100-83-11 %
2100-84-04 %
2100-85-8 %
298XP-86-4 *
298XP-87-1 *
2101-87-4 &
298XP-87-6 *
2101-89-02 &
2101-90-6 &

Mufflers

501 29 47-01 # FR
501 48 61-01 #@% screen-baffle-cover SFF
501 57 29-01 #@% side exit-screen
501 59 52-01jungle early baffle-cover

503 17 28-01Jungle late %& cover
503 41 69-01 * SFF screen
503 41 69-02 * SFF open
503 53 06-01 & screen baffle cover *baffle&cover?
503 53 06-02 *& screen

I agree the could become a good reference thread for this family/series of saw.
I recently received a sealed bag NOS 503 17 28-01 Jungle muffler.
In trying to describe what has evolved I need to describe these devices some how.
There are at least two pressings/cans. Do some of these have a sheet metal heat sheild /cover??

The early fully ribbed"FR" cans( or are these a cover???) and the later square front face. "SFF"
I have no access to any mufflers except 2... so most of the details will have to come from you guys...so please offer some details if you have a stash of components.

Here is my initial suppositions.
2 main styles of pressings. "FR" & "SFF" There may be a third since husk2100 says there is a 10mm thicker package???of what style???

Looking through the IPL of all these machines It seems the regular (non jungle) SFF is with spark screen, baffle, and the louvered cover. First version of jungle removed the screen. second version of jungle like the one I just got... lacks the screen and baffle. It only has the louvered cover.
Therefore IMO the SFF does not mean it is a jungle muffler.

The unpunched SFF mufflers (503 41 69-01 * screen) have the side exit or without a spark screen (503 41 69-02 * open) both were offered only on the 298.

Well according to the IPL, the 3rd rev of 298 came standard with the 3 prong 2101 starter. I've acquired the 3 leg starter components and flywheel so I'll be putting them on soon.

Unfortunately my 2nd rev 298 XP does not look so nice on the piston.

 

[Real1shepherd]

I'd sure like to see this thread keep going. I bought all my 2100's from Bailey's when I was loggin' back in the day in the PNW and CO. This was before anybody thought about 'collecting' and getting down and dirty about internal part differences. I quit loggin' before the 2101 came out. I always specified NO chain brakes from Bailey's, which I think meant that the clutch covers were different from models with chain brakes. It's hard to rethink what I knew about the saws back in the day, versus what I understand about them now....especially chasing down unobtainium parts today. I do know that once when we were chasing down a ignition module back in the day, the XP designation came into play. On a good day on the phone if you were lucky, you could chase down a regional rep for Husky. He told me that the XP modules had a hotter spark...designed for saws in the PNW and places where high humidity was always present. Then it seems all the saws I bought were XP. There was a # difference in the IPL...that's why we dug around to find the difference.

Only mods we ever did to the 2100 were the gov mod and modified mufflers. Basically on the gov mod...between the tiny copper washer and the gov, you fitted a piece of metal the size of the gov base. Some guys liked to brag they punched the metal out of a beer can, I chose to use copper shim stalk. Some guys just put in a Welsh plug to cap the hole the gov went in, but we didn't do that.

Kevin

 

[sachsmo]

I see the pic is gone of my'jungle duck'.

I have the louvers and formed screen to put it back to stock, but was playin' with brazing different types of metal.

This Muffler came on an 1100 from the U.P. damned good running saw, but the plastics are stained and faded.

Of the 2 1100s, and 2 2100s in me stable, all have the 'thick rings?

Yes the 'early mufflers' were not as deep as the later ones my other 1100 has a 'shallow' muffler with the top side exit.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Interesting looking muffler. I guess I always had the "early" 2100's. Always had the thin style muffler with heat shield, the 'hoodie' and the spark arrestor. Have an original set of tools too except for the orange handle, carb screwdriver.

 

[Real1shepherd]

What I don't understand now....originally, there were two different caps(oil & gas) by part #'s. I don't understand what the difference is supposed to be between them....like one vented, one not...or slightly different profile? Like most 2100's mine have been used hard through the yrs and I was never particular about getting the exact same part, unless it was critical. So, I don't have two original caps to compare anymore.......

Anyone have any thoughts on this?

Kevin

 

[ozflea]

Maybe the Jungle bit could be that the muffler was fitted new with a spark arrestor most operators may have removed such as they carbon up over time and kill performance

 

[Real1shepherd]

In the pics I posted, the spark arrestor was screwed inside the 'hoodie'....I wonder how they did that on the 'jungle' type.

Kevin

 

[High-Wall]

Has anyone been able to tell a power difference between the 2100 standard muffler and the jungle muffler?

 

[lefturnfreek]

Am I seeing this right, huge saw with 3/8 ths on it, not 404...?

 

[SawTroll]

Maybe the Jungle bit could be that the muffler was fitted new with a spark arrestor most operators may have removed such as they carbon up over time and kill performance

As far as I know, the "jungle" mufflers tend to be the most open ones, with no baffles or screens, and they tend to have quite large tube type outlets. In other words, more about the "needs" of the saw, and less about the environment around the saw.

I am sure there are exceptioms though.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Maybe the Jungle bit could be that the muffler was fitted new with a spark arrestor most operators may have removed such as they carbon up over time and kill performance

Actually with use, the spark arrestor screen just burns away. I never had one carbon foul/plug or cause any trouble that way. When I was loggin' still, we ran up to six foot bars with nothing but the Tillotson governor blanked off and muffler mods. But it's been so long, I don't exactly remember how they did the muffler mods back then. And no, we didn't think we were damaging the environ with these saws until the EPA saw fit to pick on chainsaws...ridiculous.

Kevin

 

[blk05crew]

I'd like to see this thread continue as well. I've just recently acquired my first 2100 CD and have been trying to learn as much as I can about them.
The ID tag on mine is missing so I don't know what the year is but here are some pics and info that might help others. (It was originally a thick ring piston that was scored but an NOS thick ring piston was put in to replace it.) Has regular style muffler and no chain break. Who know about originality, I'm certainly not the original owner.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Nice ol' 2100. If it had no chain brake, chances are it was set-up and sold as a power head to us loggers here in the PNW. Nothing really pops out at me about dating the saw, but figure late 70's, early 80's. If that's the correct-to-the-saw AF cover, that has to be an early XP...70's. Most of them had a blue XP logo on the top rear of the cover, centered with the holding screw. But you can only be sure of the saws original parts if you talk to and buy from an original owner. Plastic parts were replaced all the time and where therefor updated...like the blue logo XP.

Somebody may have thought they had a better idea with that wingnut mess, but having a scrench handy for a screw head is the usual way. All its original composite wrap is missing from the full-wrap.

Kevin

 

[blk05crew]

Nice ol' 2100. If it had no chain brake, chances are it was set-up and sold as a power head to us loggers here in the PNW. Nothing really pops out at me about dating the saw, but figure late 70's, early 80's. If that's the correct-to-the-saw AF cover, that has to be an early XP...70's. Most of them had a blue XP logo on the top rear of the cover, centered with the holding screw. But you can only be sure of the saws original parts if you talk to and buy from an original owner. Plastic parts were replaced all the time and where therefor updated...like the blue logo XP.

Somebody may have thought they had a better idea with that wingnut mess, but having a scrench handy for a screw head is the usual way. All its original composite wrap is missing from the full-wrap.

Kevin

Well I am in the PNW and purchased it from a guy here so you're probably right there. Like I said who know what on it actually came on it. Thanks for the info though on the year guess. I do need wrap the handle with something before too much use.

 

[Real1shepherd]

Well I am in the PNW and purchased it from a guy here so you're probably right there. Like I said who know what on it actually came on it. Thanks for the info though on the year guess. I do need wrap the handle with something before too much use.

Most everything is NLA on this saw...it's a pity because I ran many of them and always thought it was a near perfect design. I'm working with a member on a 394, which along with the 3120, replaced the 2100/2101. I have no idea if I'm even gonna like the 394...suspect so.

I was told that Stihl offers two sizes of handle wrap. I guess they're real whores to put on and you need the use of lube and an air compressor. Somebody on AS had documented this, but the pics were lost during the hack.

If you haven't been told the story yet....the reason why this was a nearly perfectly executed saw from the get-go, was that Husky sent a factory engineer over here with a bunch of 2100 prototype saws. He spent months in the woods with PNW loggers and listened to their complaints & suggestions. This was pre-production.....the production saws had all the tweaks and changes.

Oh and another tidbit....I had a module fail early on with a saw....so my dealer found out there were two offered. One was the CD and the other was the XP designation. We had no idea of the difference and so the dealer talked to a rep who was in charge of west coast sales...all of it. He said the XP designation meant 'extra power' and was designed around a hotter spark to start wet saws in the PNW. Now....you may hear a lot of other BS stories on what it means, but that came from the horse's mouth.

Kevin