Husqvarna 350 Lost Spark

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Sugarbush is saying check that the coil screw is grounded. A wire from bottom coil screw to fins does that. Check spark at the plug normally. Husky 350 coil screws mount in plastic. There is a Z shaped clip that mounts under bottom coil screw and under bolt that holds engine in the plastic chassis. It's called an earthing strip - lets coil touch ground. Is it there?
 
OK, thanks for clarifying that for me!

I took #10 wire, and as the saw is sitting up right, I hooked the wire to the bottom coil screw, with the other end to a cyl. fin, spinning with a drill checking for spark with two different plugs... (I also held on to the end of the plug wire to make sure lol) it's still a no go!

Dang, this is frustrating! lol

SR
 
if you spin to slow you won't git a spark. kill switch wire unhooked at coil. plug base grounded on cyl. if plug and coil are good you should have spark.
 
Brand new coil may be bad?
Check magnets on flywheel - good magnetism?
I'd pull the coil and check the earthing plate / grounding strap connection - the coil screw must contact the engine. Is it dirty/corroded so no juice flows? Is grounding plate broken in half?
 
Thanks guys, I'm going to find some time to look it over again, later today... Will let you know what I find, then.

SR
 
OK, today I took another look at everything you guys mentioned, everything looked the same to me, except I did spin the motor over faster when using a separate wire for grounding, AND there it was....spark!!

SO, I took the extra ground wire off, and checked without it, it still has spark... I really didn't do anything different from yesterday, so I put the recoil on it and check for spark. It still had spark so I put it all together and took it outside.

I really believe the original coil was bad and turning it over FASTER (as was suggested) was the reason I wasn't seeing spark yesterday. Anyway, a few pulls with the choke on, and it was running, but it needed some choke to stay running, so I put more gas in it, warmed it up and although it will scream, it doesn't want to run slow without having to keep messing with the choke.

I did try turning the lo speed screw, but I never got it to run right, it now has carb issues that it didn't have before, but it got late, so I gave up working on it for today...

I want to THANK all of you that gave me help with this, I learned a lot, and I couldn't have got it running without all of your suggestions!

Now, can anyone tell me how much the low speed screw should be turned out, for a starting point??

Thanks again,

SR
 
L screw - 1.5 turns out / CCW from lightly seated is a good starting point. H screw - 1.25 turns out. If carb can't be tuned in, a new AfterMarket one is $11-$17 on ebay. Also, a fast idle could be an air leak.
 
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