Husqvarna 55 starting issue

[Woodyjiw]

The saw is an early 2000s 55. I ran it on Friday with no problems, started fine and ran fine as I bucked up some brush for the chipper. Went back to my project on Saturday and tried to fire it cold, pulled the choke gave it a few yanks and it fired then quit, pushed the choke back in ,still on high idle, pulled and it started idled up then quit. Did it a couple more times then I tried the choke again, I had never had this issue, same as above, started stopped a few times. I put it down thinking maybe it flooded. Tried it again a lil later that day, same thing happened.
Tried it today and same thing.
So I pulled the plug, it was wet, grabbed a new plug and tried again, same outcome. Air filter is new, FYI. Has fuel in it. I'm not sure on the age of the fuel filter and fuel line. I did pull the filter out of the tank and it looks very clean. I didn't pull the fuel line off to inspect it. I didn't see any fuel leaking around the carb either.

Would a split fuel line in the tank cause it to do this?
Any questions, suggestions and input is welcome.

Thanks Woody

 

[aokpops]

Coil , less than 10 bucks air gap 00.15 or bigger

 

[Woodyjiw]

Coil , less than 10 bucks air gap 00.15 or bigger

Will the coil cut in and out? I've always thought the electronics work or don't. But I have little experience in saw repair but am trying to learn.
Use a feeler gauge between the coil and flywheel?

Thanks for the response.

 

[dougand3]

I'd look over the fuel line-it may be hard, soft or cracked. Carb screen could be dirty. Carbs diaphragms could be stiff. Fuel pickup could be partially clogged. Test the coil - plug out, back in boot, grounded on cyl fins, dark environment, pull and look at spark.
A business card works for gapping coil fins.
Also, can indirectly test coil and compression by putting a teaspoon of fuel in plug hole. Pull 10-20 times (it will be floody) and see if it runs strong and fast for 2-3 secs.

 

[AVB]

From the description of the problem and the saw's age I would suspect a stiffen metering diaphragm causing the engine to flood. Also check the carburetor internal filter screen as it could be clogged with crud especially if the filter is one of diecast weighted ones and if water had been present in the tank while it was stored.

As for coils normally they do just fail completely; although, I have seen some strange things out of them too. Thermal failure when hot and works again after cool off. I even had few that the internal spark advance had fail and they would literately blow the air filter off or the saw would sit there idling all day but would never accel to full throttle.

 

[Woodyjiw]

From the description of the problem and the saw's age I would suspect a stiffen metering diaphragm causing the engine to flood. Also check the carburetor internal filter screen as it could be clogged with crud especially if the filter is one of diecast weighted ones and if water had been present in the tank while it was stored.

As for coils normally they do just fail completely; although, I have seen some strange things out of them too. Thermal failure when hot and works again after cool off. I even had few that the internal spark advance had fail and they would literately blow the air filter off or the saw would sit there idling all day but would never accel to full throttle.

I'd look over the fuel line-it may be hard, soft or cracked. Carb screen could be dirty. Carbs diaphragms could be stiff. Fuel pickup could be partially clogged. Test the coil - plug out, back in boot, grounded on cyl fins, dark environment, pull and look at spark.
A business card works for gapping coil fins.
Also, can indirectly test coil and compression by putting a teaspoon of fuel in plug hole. Pull 10-20 times (it will be floody) and see if it runs strong and fast for 2-3 secs.

Thanks for the advice gentlemen.
FYI I had the saw in the shop a few months ago and it was checked and cleaned up then. Very little run time on it since but that doesn't mean something new didn't happen while not being used.
I will first check fuel line, filter is a white Oregon style, and looked very clean.
If the fuel line is soft will they collapse from the suction?

 

[dougand3]

Fuel lines can get soft and collapse under suction, esp if older and have been sitting in ethanol fuel mix. If shop replaced fuel lines a few months ago-seems less likely. What all did the shop do?
Like AVB said, you may have a diaphragm problem-both metering and fuel pump ones may be stiff.
You can rebuild the Zama C1Q or Walbro WT170 carb with a $5-$8 kit. But when new AM carb clones are $12, I don't bother. Search online Husqvarna 55 carburetor.

 

[AVB]

I would not think your having a line that is collapsing as that would cause no fuel and a dry plug and you said your plug is wet.
If very soft (I mean when compared to new line) I would replace them anyway. Personally I haven't seen a case of collapsed lines except on a riding mower using an EPA line with an internal liner.

Now I have seen multiple line problems and even had one case where I installed new Tygon lines where they became so soft they split within one week. I contributed that one to a defect in the fuel as I replaced the lines and put in a fresh batch fuel. The first fuel mix I used was only a few days old but was from a supplier of non-ethanol gasoline but something was right with it so it was burned in the waste burner.

Not only is ethanol a problem causing agent in fuel but it the other additives sometimes including the fuel oil blends. My neighbor across the street uses the same ethanol fuel and lines as I do. My lines are fine and his lines is constantly failing. I am trying to get him to switch his fuel oil over to the Pro Multi Mix that I use and sell. So many things that can fuel line failure and to find which part is causing you have to just change one thing at a time until you eliminate the culprit and that take time.

 

[Woodyjiw]

Fuel lines can get soft and collapse under suction, esp if older and have been sitting in ethanol fuel mix. If shop replaced fuel lines a few months ago-seems less likely. What all did the shop do?
Like AVB said, you may have a diaphragm problem-both metering and fuel pump ones may be stiff.
You can rebuild the Zama C1Q or Walbro WT170 carb with a $5-$8 kit. But when new AM carb clones are $12, I don't bother. Search online Husqvarna 55 carburetor.

I would have to double check the work order on it. I know they adjusted the coil as it was way out of wack, from the other shop I had work on it, (a Husky and Stihl dealer, that decided I needed a bunch of stuff done I didn't ask them to do. I took it there because the vent was leaking, I replaced it but it kept leaking, being a novice I thought I messed it up and asked them to repair it. They said we rebuilt the carb did this, that, and the other and told me that sometimes they just leak and that's how it is. Needless to say it ran like garbage and I set it aside from frustration.) Sorry, back on topic, checked it over and retuned the carb. I don't think they replaced the lines or filter, I believe I did that last and I'm sure it's been over a year....

Is there away to test the carb or just rebuild it and hope for the best?

 

[dougand3]

So, a shop rebuilt the carb recently? I'd take carb apart and see if 1. diaphragms are supple. 2. Needle and screen are clean. 3. Lever height is proper.

Or, a better answer is just get an AM carb. I just bought one for $9.98 shipped off an ebay auction. They are always $12 B-I-N.

An added advantage is AM carbs don't have limiter crappola hanging on them.

 

[aokpops]

I use a feeler gauge an going to try 00.20 . The bigger the gap they seem to last longer, was going through a lot of coils on a lot of small engines.