Huztl Farmertec 372 Build Kit

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Has anyone ever had issues with the case gasket leaking on these kits? used mine last weekend but after a short break it started up and smoked badly... sure enough oil was weeping into the crankcase.

I split the cases, couldn't see anything wrong. The mating surfaces looked ok and flat so cleaned them up and put a new gasket in this time smeared each side with 1184. Admittedly I didn't wait long enough for the 1184 to set up totally but a low pressure test shows an air leak into the oil tank (bubbles showing at the end of the oil feed pipe).

It's a bit baffling. Before I split it down again I'll leave it overnight with full tank of bar oil in just to see if the gasket swells a little and seals but I'm not holding my breath...

Scrap that idea I couldn't leave it, knowing I might not get a chance to look at it again for a while, I decided to split it again. This time I rushed less, had a real good look and got to the bottom of it... in my haste the first time and convinced it could only really be the case gasket I overlooked the real problem....
372Crack1.jpg


372Crack2.jpg


That definitely wasn't there when I assembled it. It looks like the powder coat was covering it up and sealed it hence why it initially passed a pressure / vac test but with a bit of heat and vibration the powder coat let go causing the leak :eek:.

I've messaged Huztl hopefully they will get me sorted. I'll keep you posted...
 
Has anyone ever had issues with the case gasket leaking on these kits? used mine last weekend but after a short break it started up and smoked badly... sure enough oil was weeping into the crankcase.

I split the cases, couldn't see anything wrong. The mating surfaces looked ok and flat so cleaned them up and put a new gasket in this time smeared each side with 1184. Admittedly I didn't wait long enough for the 1184 to set up totally but a low pressure test shows an air leak into the oil tank (bubbles showing at the end of the oil feed pipe).

It's a bit baffling. Before I split it down again I'll leave it overnight with full tank of bar oil in just to see if the gasket swells a little and seals but I'm not holding my breath...

Scrap that idea I couldn't leave it, knowing I might not get a chance to look at it again for a while, I decided to split it again. This time I rushed less, had a real good look and got to the bottom of it... in my haste the first time and convinced it could only really be the case gasket I overlooked the real problem....
372Crack1.jpg


372Crack2.jpg


That definitely wasn't there when I assembled it. It looks like the powder coat was covering it up and sealed it hence why it initially passed a pressure / vac test but with a bit of heat and vibration the powder coat let go causing the leak :eek:.

I've messaged Huztl hopefully they will get me sorted. I'll keep you posted...
Oh my, that's not good. How do you think that happened, shipping damage?
Yes let us know what they say. I hope they take care of you.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
Oh my, that's not good. How do you think that happened, shipping damage?
Yes let us know what they say. I hope they take care of you.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

No not shipping damage simply just a bad casting.. I believe cooling too quick can result in cracks like this. To be fair to Huztl they like me couldn't have known about the crack but how their suppliers didn't notice it and reject it before powder coating is a mystery.

I think I may now be past the seemingly usual automated / semi automated responses along the lines of can you supply photos (even though I already had), have you tried the part does it work? and can you describe the issue (as if I hadn't first time around) so I'm now waiting on a proper response...
 
Yes, its ridiculous what you have to go through to get a bad part replaced or refunded from China. It's not just huztl. I went through the same deal when I ordered a new Chinese carburetor for my old Toyota truck. It would not run. Cranked beautifully, but would not run. After 15 days of communication and sending pictures and videos. I finally got 100 of my 125 dollars back and kept the carb for parts. I had to get eBay involved to get that
I wish you the best on your situation.
No not shipping damage simply just a bad casting.. I believe cooling too quick can result in cracks like this. To be fair to Huztl they like me couldn't have known about the crack but how their suppliers didn't notice it and reject it before powder coating is a mystery.

I think I may now be past the seemingly usual automated / semi automated responses along the lines of can you supply photos (even though I already had), have you tried the part does it work? and can you describe the issue (as if I hadn't first time around) so I'm now waiting on a proper response...

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
Aliexpress is much better for that stuff. A lot of the sellers seem just like small businesses and they also don't get their money until you receive and inspect the product.
 
Just playing the devil’s advocate.

Pressing in the crankshaft cold with the case half not correctly supported could easily cause that crack. [emoji848]
5619b7645e221f9f8716cfe4945e6019.jpg

I'm sure it could... but no press was involved nor could it explain how the powder coat has penetrated into the crack...
 
The 272 pistons have a ton of meat above the ring land. If you get a jug that isn't ****ed like mine was you should only have to take like 30 thou off the piston. My big bore just was so ****ed up I took 40 thou off the squish band just to clean it up and I was able to run the 272 piston without a pop-up as long as I kept the base gasket, which in my case I wanted to anyways for intake timing. And now that jug has basically the timing I want and 9:1 compression because the combo chamber is tiny now.
i,m building a hutzl 372 with 52 mm kit and also have the 272 52 mm kit ,i saw this post and you mentioned about the squish and material removed from the 272 piston , they are windowed pistons compared to the 372 piston so do they work the same or is there less efficiency compared to the 272 cylinder, due to less volume pushed down , i will be removing 30 thou off 52 mm 372 cyl anyway but might try your setup instead , what do you think ?
 
Mine results in a brutal amount of compression. Not possible to start without the decomp. I'm considering building like a piston stuffer, basically model up a thing that I can print from nylon to fill the piston up to have it make more case compression that the factory piston.
 
Paul, were you pulling the case halves together with the screws?

Here's a vid on how to do it without risking the bearings or the case, or using heat or cold :)



I put all my cases together with a pulling tool I made a few years ago which works on the exact same principle as in your video but not quite so fancy (more along afleetcommands version).

Not that the method of assembly would have made any difference in this case... on careful examination it's clear the crack was present on leaving the foundry. The lack of quality control resulted in it being covered up with powder coat instead of being rejected.
 
I have had a bunch of hutzl cases now....all different models. All have been fine...with the exception of random weirdness (372 impulse nipple in the wrong location). This is new and unfortunate. How far does the crank go? Can you grind on the powder coat a bit and chase that crack?
 
I have had a bunch of hutzl cases now....all different models. All have been fine...with the exception of random weirdness (372 impulse nipple in the wrong location). This is new and unfortunate. How far does the crank go? Can you grind on the powder coat a bit and chase that crack?

Yep it's definitely unusual this is the 4th Huztl kit I've done the others were spot on especially the crankcases. I've not ever come across any other mention of similar before either. The crack extends to the very left edge of the second photo at least and I suspect will go even further if the powder coat is scraped off. That will be something I will get onto when I get it sorted with Huztl... as it is they can inspect it for themselves and see that the crack was covered up.
 
Mine results in a brutal amount of compression. Not possible to start without the decomp. I'm considering building like a piston stuffer, basically model up a thing that I can print from nylon to fill the piston up to have it make more case compression that the factory piston.
hmm sounds good , might add more weight to the piston so might be rod stretch and maybe fatigue , i,ll weigh the pistons in gramms and see the difference , the 52 mm kit seems quite heavy but no idea of the OEM weight as i dont have one , ligher is always better , thats why forged pistons are always better , better structure and more machining so less stress on crank and rod / bearings , higher compression must add stress , but usually is fine to a limit from manufaturing road cars to race cars :)
 
Iirc the 52mm bore 272 piston is lighter than the 365 piston. And my piston suffer would be hollow nylon, only a couple grams of weight.
 
Mine results in a brutal amount of compression. Not possible to start without the decomp. I'm considering building like a piston stuffer, basically model up a thing that I can print from nylon to fill the piston up to have it make more case compression that the factory piston.
Yes it is possible
Without the decomp
But you really have to want to
Start them.
 
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