Huztl / Farmertec ms 440

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I decided to buy a few parts from huztl, I ordered 100 meters of starter rope, 4.0mm i won't be needed to buy that ever again, i also bought the Huztl version of the elasto start pull cord, was pleasantly surprised at how well it worked, i would and am definitely buying a few more. I also purchased a piston stop from them nd fuel caps, i found the fuel caps to need a little time to break in and they loosen up nicely, so far no leaks.
 

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What is that smell,,,

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Mine smells like Kl200 on a nice 45° day. It went together like the 660 with a few different problems. A couple of the problems was mentioned earlier and some I had wasn't. But it's running. The cylinder looked better than my 660 did so I left it untouched for now. Only ran a 1/4 tank out.
Edit: Mine didn't have anymore vibration than the 660
 
I had to add material to that area for my 1/2 throttle position to function
Edit: That was 660 not 440
 
Well now between adding and subtracting all those who follow should have a fully functioning throttle control.
Sorry that was my 660. Wrong thread. lol. I had no high idle problems with my 440
 
The carb that shipped with my 440 wouldn't idle but would run wide open. I have another on order. But in the meantime I'm running a 460 carb. I finally had time to take the carb apart and found my low speed orifice wasn't drilled all the way or something.
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I probably will. I'll need to see what size. I know It's Tinny tiny. The smallest bit I have is .0135 and I don't think it's smaller than that.
 
Very frustrated! I have finally had the opportunity to work on my 440 kit again. I was able to get to run for several seconds after I first finished the kit but now I can't get it to fire. It has 155 psi compression, passed case vacuum test, has good spark, and getting fuel. The flywheel wood rift key looks intact.

I swapped carbs with an OEM saw. The kit carb worked great on the oem saw but the oem carb did not work on the kit saw.

I have a huztl 52mm cylinder installed. The squish band is not machined correctly. The quish gap is wider around the outer perimeter than it is towards the center of the bore. The squish gap should taper smaller towards the center of the bore or at least the squish band should be parallel to the top of the piston. This might make it run poorly but it should still fire.

You smart folks out there have any ideas?
 
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