Can you use any file with this device or do you have to buy specific files from Stihl?
I thought i was good at sharpening a chain
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Can you use any file with this device or do you have to buy specific files from Stihl?
sunfish
Fish Head
Save Edge brand is what I like best. Last I got from Baileys.
Don, didn't you also say you like PFERD? I thought I had gleaned that from an earlier post.
sunfish
Fish Head
Yes Mike, they are good also, just seems the Save Edge cut a little longer. Probably too close to call though.
CapitaineHaddoc
European Westcoaster
I tried Pferd files, but I do not think they take longer than Vallorbe files. I never tried the "save edge" files, I will take som from Baileys in my next order.
And for chisel bit files, whose are the best? I have some Viiala "double bevel" from ebay, but they wear out quickly. Only found Vallorbe ones here, but they cost € 18 / $ 25 / piece.
And for chisel bit files, whose are the best? I have some Viiala "double bevel" from ebay, but they wear out quickly. Only found Vallorbe ones here, but they cost € 18 / $ 25 / piece.
Bill Becker
ArboristSite Operative
For the 2 in 1 file guide the flat files for the depth gauges are specific from Stihl or Pferd. The round files for the cutter teeth are standard, available anywhere.
Dan_IN_MN
Addicted to ArboristSite
You want the highest part of the cutter to be the cutting edge. If you see "glint" on the top of the cutter near the cutting edge, that's the highest part and your cutting edge isn't touching the wood.
Take a look at this pic. The cutter on the right you see a shiny edge. This needs to be removed/files back to look like the cutter on the left.
Okay, how much wood the cutter is allowed to remove is controlled by the depth gauges.
Here you can see the Top plate of the cutter is angled back. As you file the top plate away, it gets shorter. For the Depth gauge to be the correct height, it needs to be lowered.
Another thing is don't wait too long to sharpen. The longer you wait, the more filing will be required to get a sharp tooth.
1. If you look at Dan_in_MN's illustrations, above, you will see that it is the top plate edge, and the upper part of the side plate edge that do the cutting. These have to be sharp, no matter how you get them that way (file, grinder, Dremel, different jigs, etc.). You say that you are getting good chips, so you may be doing this OK.
2. Even if these edges are sharp, they cannot bite into the wood if the depth gauges are too high. These need to be lowered every few sharpenings, but don't take off too much or the chain will get too grabby and hard to control. I recommend using one of the depth gauge tools to do this accurately.
3. If you want the chain to 'self-feed' more, you can try making a deeper hook: by using a larger diameter file, or by filing into the gullet area slightly after you have sharpened the edges above (#1). If you focus on the gullet without getting those edges sharp, you will be cutting with a dull chain.
4. For smooth cutting, you want all the cutters on a loop to be filed/ground at the same angles, profiles, and the same length.
Philbert
BDM53ENT
ArboristSite Operative
Have to admit Ive been hand filing for a long time and always did what I thought was a decent job. I picked up a GranBerg and was very impressed for the price.
Moody made mention about forcing the file. After using the GranBerg I realized just how much I was doing this freehand. Sometimes an old dog can learn new tricks
Moody made mention about forcing the file. After using the GranBerg I realized just how much I was doing this freehand. Sometimes an old dog can learn new tricks
M
moody
Guest
I posted this in a similar thread. Hopefully it's helpful.
Life gets a little stressful and when it does I'll go sharpen chain (Stihl RS). This is my soft wood chain (maple, cottonwood) Thought I would share a some chain sharpening information. I may make a quick video tomorrow explaining a little better.
Starting at the point of interest POI. The reason I start there is because when you use a round file a flat stroke is ideal. The outer edge of the tooth is something flat that be helpful to look at.
Many people see the beak as the most important part of the chain. And to be honest the entire top of the tooth is very important. If the top of the cutter isn't flat then you'll find the chips to be very small. More times than not you'll find they look more like half of a chip.
Now on to the gullet or 'hook'. Notice that it's very similar to a half moon with a slight bend. When you get a deep gullet or to big of hook you'll find that time between sharpening will go down. The location of the gullet is just as important as depth. But that's a lot of typing.
Now on to the Raker. The single most overlooked part of the chain. It won't matter how sharp your cutter is if the Raker isn't at the right height. Too high and it won't allow enough cutting surface to peel the wood. Too low and you'll have a grabby chain that won't last long in hardwoods as they dull quickly. Buying a file guide with the appropriate depth gauge will keep this simple. Patience is needed for hand filing don't get discouraged if you mess up.
Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
Life gets a little stressful and when it does I'll go sharpen chain (Stihl RS). This is my soft wood chain (maple, cottonwood) Thought I would share a some chain sharpening information. I may make a quick video tomorrow explaining a little better.
Starting at the point of interest POI. The reason I start there is because when you use a round file a flat stroke is ideal. The outer edge of the tooth is something flat that be helpful to look at.
Many people see the beak as the most important part of the chain. And to be honest the entire top of the tooth is very important. If the top of the cutter isn't flat then you'll find the chips to be very small. More times than not you'll find they look more like half of a chip.
Now on to the gullet or 'hook'. Notice that it's very similar to a half moon with a slight bend. When you get a deep gullet or to big of hook you'll find that time between sharpening will go down. The location of the gullet is just as important as depth. But that's a lot of typing.
Now on to the Raker. The single most overlooked part of the chain. It won't matter how sharp your cutter is if the Raker isn't at the right height. Too high and it won't allow enough cutting surface to peel the wood. Too low and you'll have a grabby chain that won't last long in hardwoods as they dull quickly. Buying a file guide with the appropriate depth gauge will keep this simple. Patience is needed for hand filing don't get discouraged if you mess up.
Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
Moody points out an interesting fact that rarely ever gets mentioned in filing threads & that is the fact that your top plate needs to not only be sharp but also be STRAIGHT. If not and it has a bend or step in the edge no matter how sharp it is you will only get small half sized chips and perhaps think you depth gauges are not low enough. Very good point that nearly never get mentioned.
johncinco
Addicted to ArboristSite
If my chain looked like, I would have thrown it away long ago. Holy cow where'd your chain go?!
Find someone near you who sharpens chain really well. Pick up a few of their favorite beverages of choice. Go for a visit and watch and listen how they sharpen chains. Pick up some good habits and techniques they have. Nothing beats better than watching and listening to someone who already knows what you are trying to figure out. Take some beef jerky too, everyone likes jerky.
Find someone near you who sharpens chain really well. Pick up a few of their favorite beverages of choice. Go for a visit and watch and listen how they sharpen chains. Pick up some good habits and techniques they have. Nothing beats better than watching and listening to someone who already knows what you are trying to figure out. Take some beef jerky too, everyone likes jerky.
Grande Dog
ArboristSite.com Sponsor
Howdy,
When you're buying files, you need to pay attention to the files cut itself. When you buy Pferd brand files, most people carry the fine cut versions. If you wait for your chain to quit cutting before sharpen, you're probably not going to like fine cut files because it takes a lot more strokes to get the job done. If you touch up your chain when you refuel. the fine cut file will leave a nicer edge.
Regards
Gregg
When you're buying files, you need to pay attention to the files cut itself. When you buy Pferd brand files, most people carry the fine cut versions. If you wait for your chain to quit cutting before sharpen, you're probably not going to like fine cut files because it takes a lot more strokes to get the job done. If you touch up your chain when you refuel. the fine cut file will leave a nicer edge.
Regards
Gregg
...and get a chain vise like a gen 4, makes a big difference imho!!!
That's a race chain and the person that has it really liked it and did well with it. That was a new chain when I started on it. That may have been the 3120 build chain that won a build off between 12 chains.
John, that's a race chain. and from the looks of it a mean mutha too.
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
i find it easier to replace the chain when it goes dull ..............
