I believe the "rule of thumb" says 3% per 1000 feet, but I don't know accurate it is for each and every engine.........:yoyo:
I believe you are right on as we lose around 20-25% of power with non fuel injected engines here at nearly 8k feet.
I used to ride a wheelie effortlessly on my Honda CRF450 dirtbike, but at this elevation, I really have to *pop* the clutch to get enough power to lift the front wheel.
BTW, back to chainsaws for a brief moment.
I have narrowed my selection down to two models. The funny thing is that both of these models that are in my final two I have never seen, used, or even held.....so how moronic is that???
While I did go and try out a Stihl ms361 and thought it was an incredible saw; two iteams keep popping into my head. Weight and compatibility.
While the ms361 is VERY light for a 4.4hp saw, it is still over 12 lbs dry not including bar, chain, and of course all fluids.
This is extra weight to carry around that I simply don't need to be slinging about; especially with very sore joints. Also, as I mentioned before, we only have much smaller diameter tree's. Most average 6-10'' with a few around 12-14''. Really nothing bigger.
For this reason, I have narrowed my selection down to the two best saws I have never used!; that being 1.) The dolmar ps5100s and 2.) the new Husky 346xp with the larger piston producing around 50cc and 3.6-3.8hp. The only problem is that the new Husky does'nt even exist here in the U.S yet!.
I just can't get over the specs on the Dolmar 5100 as it is a near 4hp saw that runs at 14,500 rpm's, weighs only 11 lbs and costs only $389.00 retail!.
These incredible specs coupled with the fact that there are plenty of places on the internet to by parts from and even the parts are VERY cheap!!.
My local Stihl/husky dealer also said that they can work on Dolmar no problem, and even gets parts for them. So, more than likely, I will purchase a new Dolmar ps5100s.
I may wait a few weeks or so to do this only because the forrests are all closed (to chainsaws) right now in our area due to fire restricitions, but will open back up once the rains start.
This way, I will be able to see if that new Husky is ever going to come out or not!.
Anyway, on either saw, I will most likely use a 16'' bar, but no longer than 18'' to keep the weight down and balance point accurate. I just now need to do a bit of research on bars and chains as I don't really know the difference between all the various types of chains (chisel point, semi skip, full skip) and stuff like that. The only thing I read is that the stock *safety* chain is only good to prevent you from cutting your leg off; other than that, it's worthless!.
To be con't.
....
opcorn: 
