Inherited the old man's 026.

[DirtRacer]

Please be patient with me I am an absolute chainsaw nooob.
I am anxious and entuthiastic to get my hands dirty and learn about this little saw.

I am 35 yrs young and just inherited my dad''s ancient 026. Non pro model.
My dad says he bought it new when I was a kid, so the saw would have to be 20+ years old. The saw runs like a champ, still runs great idels great and fires up everytime.

I would like to upgrade to the pro model adjustable oiler.
Just curious if I have my parts list correct. Is there anything I am missing.

Oil pump.
Worm and gear
Sleeve
Waser
Pro clutch
Pro drum.

OK like I said I am owing up to being completely ignorant about saws. But I do have a some mechanical knowledge and have been tinkering on 2t dirtbikes for a while now. Not afraid to dive in and get dirty and figure out how stuff works..

Questions. ( don't shoot me)
I am running 50/1 in dirt bikes non ethenol is 50/1 ok for my ol saw.?

Proper cleaning? How to?

This saw has never been opened up. Should I think about a piston and rings?

Maybe a little porting?
Muffler mod?

Wife and I are expecting our first son this fall and would be cool to be able to hand it down to him some day.

From Colorado
Thanks gentleman

Dirt Racer

 

[Mustang71]

If it was taken care of then I'm sure the rings are fine but a compression test will help figure that out. I'm sure a simple muffler mod will make some extra power. I muffler mod all my saws then retune. The 026 is a great saw. As far as the oiler I have no idea on a parts list and I probably wouldn't change the oiler if it's oiling fine.

 

[BrokenSVT]

That's a lot of questions. Let me try to not miss any.

*I wouldn't bother with the oiler. On my personal saw, I didn't. I've not had any oiling issues.

*I like 40:1, or even 32:1 on my old saws. 40:1 with the good Stihl oil or similar shouldn't be a problem at all.

*Cleaning: compressed air. A nylon brush with degreaser if it's really bad. Hose off after the degreaser.

*Pull the muffler(4 T27 bolts). Check out the piston and cylinder. If it isn't scored, you're golden. You may still need rings sooner than later on that old gal.

*Porting and muffler mods are up to you. Personally, I'd enjoy dad's old saw a bit first.

Oh, and go through all the rubber parts...almost all of mine were toast. Fuel and impulse lines, dampers, intake boot, etc. And rebuild the carb.

 

[Cease232]

Non pro model oils better that the adjustable oiler.
50:1 is fine especially if that what it's been running and is tuned for. I personally run 40:1.
Replacing rubber bit's is great advice and you can replace the rings while you have it apart assuming the piston is still good. Cheap and easy to do.
I wouldn't practice mods on a saw you wanna pass on. Especially until you feel comfortable tuning a saw carb.



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[Ryan'smilling]

Good info from the other guys. Personally, I'd run 50:1 or 40:1 e-free gas mixed with a quality 2 stroke oil. I don't like the stihl oils myself (ultra smells awful in my opinion). Also, if it's gonna sit for a long time, keeping a couple of bottles of trufuel around is a good idea. If one of my saws is gonna sit for a few months, I like to run some canned fuel through it first.

I'd also agree about modding it. I think you'll have better results by learning to sharpen chains well. I mean, really learning. I recently unboxed some chains I put away a few years ago. I'd already been using saws for a decent amount of time by then, but I didn't really understand chains. Looking at them now is pretty funny. No hook, inconsistent raker height and top plate angles, gullets totally full. If you want to make that 026 cut, find another member in your area, or a local who knows his stuff, check your ego at the door, and learn what's up. After that, try square filing, and discover how much more you have to learn. It takes time, but the rewards are huge. A truly sharp chain is a joy to use, and even more importantly, it protects your saw. Not much is worse for a saw than a dull chain.

Oh, and go buy some PPE. If you're a bike racer, you understand the importance of helmets on a bike. Chaps are the same; a $80 pair of chaps could save your life someday. As a beginner, learning good habits right off the bat (take a class if you can) and wearing proper PPE are the most important things you can do. Worry about muffler mods and port work later.

 

[DirtRacer]

Thanks for popping my cherry politey I appreciate all the feedback and fantastic advise .... looks like I came to the right place.

 

[Moto Vita]

I think I've seen a Stihl kit for the oil pump, maybe on ebay. I've got both 026s and I wouldn't bother though. I also wouldn't bother opening the muffler up unless you change to a larger or less restrictive air filter.
Fuel is very important in little carbs. If you'll only run it occasionally consider using the canned pre mix available most everywhere these days.

 

[drf255]

Don't change the oiler. It's not worth it. The non-pro oiler works great and the difference in oil usage is less than you'd think. Will you really let the saw sit idling for over 30 seconds routinely?

30 seconds idling will waste as much oil as 6 seconds at WOT. It makes no sense to change it.

Btw, the clutch drum is deeper with the oil drive notch on the PRO. The clutch is the same.

@Definitive Dave here offers the kit if you're bent on having the pro oiler. I used to be, but I learned.

Open your muffler and learn to advance timing. Advance key .025.

The Achilles heel of the model is the air filter. Get a new clean OEM one. If the saw ever does anything really strange, try running with the filter off first. The pesky choke flap has a tendency of pulling itself closed and choking the saw out.

Good luck. The 026 is a great saw. If you ever want to hop it up, there's some great guys here to help you with the work.

 

[Matt B]

Great advice above from some well respected members.
Another vote for leaving the std oiler alone. It works very well.
Also worth learning how to carefully tune a saw. Many good threads on this site. A good tune and a properly sharpened chain can make a world of difference.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Don't change the oiler. It's not worth it. The non-pro oiler works great and the difference in oil usage is less than you'd think. Will you really let the saw sit idling for over 30 seconds routinely?

30 seconds idling will waste as much oil as 6 seconds at WOT. It makes no sense to change it.

Btw, the clutch drum is deeper with the oil drive notch on the PRO. The clutch is the same.

@Definitive Dave here offers the kit if you're bent on having the pro oiler. I used to be, but I learned.

Open your muffler and learn to advance timing. Advance key .025.

The Achilles heel of the model is the air filter. Get a new clean OEM one. If the saw ever does anything really strange, try running with the filter off first. The pesky choke flap has a tendency of pulling itself closed and choking the saw out.

Good luck. The 026 is a great saw. If you ever want to hop it up, there's some great guys here to help you with the work.

Yessir, those 026`s can be made to really slay wood, by some really good builders on here.

 

[tallguys]

Still see a lot of guys using the old 026 around here, damn fine saw for what it is. Look after it and like a Timex, it just keeps on ticking.

 

[DirtRacer]

That's my plan. Do a ltitle maintenence and she should run for a long time.

I picked up a used ms 310 yesterday for 200$ looks to have low hours and has been taken care of buy a guy who knows saws. Unlike me. But hey that's why I am here im anxious to learn.

I'll tear into the ol 026 probably this winter When I can't ride dirt bikes anymore. I'm sure I'll have questions and will be back.

In the mean time I just picked up a used ms 310. Looks well taken care of with low hours. I am going to pull the muffler to have a look inside the jug this weekend.

You guys have any sharping kits you could recommend to me. This saw is 3/8
026 is .325. Been using electric sharpener I works but would like to start learning the art of sharpening.

 

[Ryan'smilling]

Just buy some files and start trying. 13/64 or 7/32 for the 3/8, and 3/16 for the .325. There's some good threads on here about filing chains. Some good YouTube videos too.

 

[LonestarStihl]

A simple file guide for keeping some chains decent while you learn is nice too. I've had decent outcomes with this one. https://m.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/filing-tools/2in1file/ I like to keep it simple and have r all together. But I also practice hand filing and such as well

 

[Brian72]

I'll second the stihl 2 in 1 file set. Very simple to use and get the concept of filing. Sharpens the teeth and drops the rakers all in one shot. As far as the saw, it's a very personal thing to you. Just my opinion but if it ain't broke, don't fix it! Get other saws if you want to experiment.

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[LonestarStihl]

I'll second Brian's comment above too. Dont mess with that one. You wanna go all out get another saw. Let the family saw stay stock and live it's heirloom life

 

[Mustang71]

I'm pretty sure once you do some cutting with the 026 you won't like the ms310 anymore.

 

[DirtRacer]

Yeah I know but I need another saw.

Yes I plan on leaving the 026 stock.
But I do like the advise on replacing all rubber . And wouldn't hurt maybe to though some rings on her. Keep her true and honest so she won't go find another guy..

The 310 doesn't seem like a bad saw heavy and not overly powerful but should get me by for now. And for 200$ I ain't out nothin there could probably list it for 350 and sell it tomorrow.

 

[Mustang71]

I have sort of the same set up as u. I have an 028 which is pretty similar to ur 026 and a ms290 with the big bore kit which is the same as ur ms310 but a few more cc. I run the 2 together and dont really notice much power difference but the 028 is more comfortable.