Is It even worth it? Questions about my Husky 261

[hunter365]

Last Year I bought a used husky 261 for a mere $100.00. The previous owner couldn't get it to idle. It ran great though. I bought a
couple new chains, a case and was ready to head up the mountain...I thought. Once I got there It wouldn't start. Pull after pull just got me more and more frustrated. I came back down off the mountain drained the tank and put new fresh fuel in it. still nothin. I took it to a repair shop, and after about a week picked it up. They got it runnin but still could not get it to idle. I was then able to use it for
about 50 cuts (one tank of Gas) As it got hot, it would shut down. After I waited for a few minutes It would start right up. Then I ran out of gas, a haven't been able to get it started since. I bought and installed a brand new Carberator and still nothin. By now I have
invested over $280.00 into this saw and I am ready to trash it. What should I do? Is it a saw worth keeping, or should I simply
consider it a lesson learned and move on?
Any Help/ Ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance
CK

 

[nmurph]

Last Year I bought a used husky 261 for a mere $100.00. The previous owner couldn't get it to idle. It ran great though. I bought a
couple new chains, a case and was ready to head up the mountain...I thought. Once I got there It wouldn't start. Pull after pull just got me more and more frustrated. I came back down off the mountain drained the tank and put new fresh fuel in it. still nothin. I took it to a repair shop, and after about a week picked it up. They got it runnin but still could not get it to idle. I was then able to use it for
about 50 cuts (one tank of Gas) As it got hot, it would shut down. After I waited for a few minutes It would start right up. Then I ran out of gas, a haven't been able to get it started since. I bought and installed a brand new Carberator and still nothin. By now I have
invested over $280.00 into this saw and I am ready to trash it. What should I do? Is it a saw worth keeping, or should I simply
consider it a lesson learned and move on?
Any Help/ Ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance
CK

I will buy it..............!!!!

Start with the basics: remove the muffler and lets see how the piston and cylinder look.

Seriously, these are very good saws that are great saws with a swap of the piston to the flat-topped version found in the 262.

If the piston looks fine, I would replace the spark plug and fuel lines. Then, I would rebuild the carb.

 

[avalancher]

For any engine to start and run, you need three things.Spark, Fuel, and timing. Its time to eliminate the bad guy.

When you crank on it and it wont start, what does the spark plug look like?Are you even getting spark to the plug?

Test your spark, and if its good, then check the plug color. A plug that is wet and black indicates that you are getting fuel. A dry tan color can indicate that either you are not getting enough fuel or the mixture is way lean.

If you are getting fuel and spark, then look to the timing. Flywheel may have sheared a key and turned just enough to have the spark get there to late, which also can make a engine hard to idle.As RPMs are increased, the noticeable spark lag minimizes.

while you have the plug out, pull the muffler and take a peek at the piston. Deep gaulding and scratching may indicate you have been experiencing a lean running condition.

Pull your plug, note the color, and get back to us on the color and piston condition.

 

[nmurph]

Trying to check the condition of a piston through the plug opening is iffy. If the damage is severe it will show on the cylinder wall. But the early stage of damage usually shows on the piston first and by the time it is visible on the cylinder, the piston is definitly toasted and the cylinder may be scored as well.
It could be ther coil is going bad. The description of the saw not wanting to restart when it gets hot is classic of a bad coil. I just replaced a coil on a 262 last night. It was running fine when I finished cutting in the spring, but a few weeks ago it would not restart and didn't have spark. A fresh coil fixed the problem. But the unstable idle is more indicative of a fuel issue. It could be that you have a crack in the plug wire.

 

[hunter365]

Hey All,
Thanks so much for the advice. I have checked for spark and am getting it. I replaced the fuel line after I drained the fuel. My spark plug is not dry when I pull it out. That is as far as I got. I am new to small engines and was not aware the it could be timed, It makes sense though. What is the best way to do that? As far as the Piston goes, I have not yet looked at it but will do so and get back. Is there a way to check fro cracks in a coil? (Other than looking haha) What I mean is would a crack be obvious, and would all cracks be bad? I cant tell you how glad I am to get replies. I was about to give up. (Lot's of I told you so's for my stihlhead buddies.) I will repost as soon I get a good look at the piston.
Thanks again
CK

 

[NORMZILLA44]

Hunter365, those guy's have good advise, we have all been down that road of frustration, is it worth it, chasing gremlin's etc. I just saaw one on C-list for 275, and that's what you got in it so far. I would keep going as well, and if compared to a new saw price you would be out probably 700 ive or take, and those saw's were really well built some say better than new saw's today. The first thing I was wondering with the hard to start after hot, was score'd cylinder low comp. Hope not. Like they said check the piston, and cylinder for sure. Surprised the shop let it go back not right. If you can't get a saw to idle red flag, something is wrong, and saw is not fixe'd. Just going to take extra troubleshooting, and some walk through with member's here. Soon with help you will find the root of the problem's, and if the major stuff, comp, cylinder, piston check out, then move forward. Great saw, and welcome to the site Norm...............

 

[hunter365]

Ok Guys, Here's the deal. After finally getting time enough to look at this, this is what I have found.
1) One of the bolts attaching the muffler was missing.
2) I tried to start it again anyway before I pulled it apart. DRY Spark Plug. (I am sure the mixing screws [I guess that's what they are called] have been messed with so that might explain that.)
3) Once I pulled the muffler I could see stripes on the Piston. ( on the muffler side, but not the carb side) I could feel the ridges.
4) I pulled the head and noticed the same stripes in there too (same side of course)
5) The top of the piston was black and charred.
6) the top of the Cylinder was white and charred.
7) It has the original piston I think the one with that looks like a ring around the top.


So... that being said, whats next? Bore out the Cylinder? Buy a new piston/ Conversion kit? How is the best way to get out the piston Pin out?
And what of the muffler mod? and gasket on or off. Am i getting ahead of my self haha. Maybe

I am looking forward to the replies. I forgot how much I enjoyed tinkering with things, and am exited to do what it takes to get this saw rippin and roaring!

Thanks for everything
Hunter365

 

[nmurph]

Ok Guys, Here's the deal. After finally getting time enough to look at this, this is what I have found.
1) One of the bolts attaching the muffler was missing.replace bf it is run again. That could be the cause of the scoring on the piston
2) I tried to start it again anyway before I pulled it apart. DRY Spark Plug. (I am sure the mixing screws [I guess that's what they are called] have been messed with so that might explain that.)both screws should be set 1 turn out from lightly seated
3) Once I pulled the muffler I could see stripes on the Piston. ( on the muffler side, but not the carb side) I could feel the ridges.
4) I pulled the head and noticed the same stripes in there too (same side of course)
5) The top of the piston was black and charred. not unusual and not necessarily anything to worry about.
6) the top of the Cylinder was white and charred.
7) It has the original piston I think the one with that looks like a ring around the top.


So... that being said, whats next? Bore out the Cylinder? Buy a new piston/ Conversion kit? How is the best way to get out the piston Pin out? many cylinders can be cleaned up using muriatic acid or oven cleaner. you need to determine if you have grooves cut into the cylinder or you have deposits of aluminum. the former usually dictates replacement, the latter can often be saved with the acid
And what of the muffler mod?always good and gasket on or offyou will need to measure the squish, space bw top of piston and cylinder.. Am i getting ahead of my self haha. Maybe

I am looking forward to the replies. I forgot how much I enjoyed tinkering with things, and am exited to do what it takes to get this saw rippin and roaring!

Thanks for everything
Hunter365

see answers in red

 

[Warroad50]

By your description I would clean up cylinder and replace the piston. One thing this saw also needs is a muffler mod the 261 is very restricted. The one I worked on for a friend I replaced the ring on the piston and opened the muffler a bit. Man did that thing really come alive after it broke in the new ring.

 

[hunter365]

OK! Progress is good even if its slow

I cleaned out my Cylinder and could still feel the ridges in it. (like the texture if a Celery Stalk)
I have since ordered a Cylinder and Piston Kit. It should be here any day.
I am working on pulling the old Piston off but cant get the pin out. I have removed both springs on either end but still no luck. I am trying to be careful because I don't want to bend the rocker arm. ( I think that is what it is called)
Any Suggestions on getting this out?

The more I work on this saw, the more I realize how much work it really needs, but when I am through I think I will have a great saw that will last me a long time, and some knowledge to boot!
This saw leaks bar oil all the time. I am guessing that there is a gasket I could replace?

 

[bama]

Since you are going to rebuild it, make sure that you can determine the cause of the initial problem. If you put the new slug and jug on it without being sure that it was a fuel line, you will just have the same thing happen. A pressure/vac test will ensure that you have no air leaks and the problem was in the fuel line or carb settings.

 

[nmurph]

OK! Progress is good even if its slow

I cleaned out my Cylinder and could still feel the ridges in it. (like the texture if a Celery Stalk)

If you have ridges, you have not done enough with the acid. If you have grooves, then perhaps your cylinder is shot.

I am working on pulling the old Piston off but cant get the pin out. I have removed both springs on either end but still no luck. I am trying to be careful because I don't want to bend the rocker arm. ( I think that is what it is called)
Any Suggestions on getting this out??

It is called the piston rod or rod......rocker arms are what move valves......I lay the saw on its side, support the rod with a piece of 2x4 cut to the right size (as close to the piston as possible), and use a nail set and hammer to lightly tap the pin out.

The more I work on this saw, the more I realize how much work it really needs, but when I am through I think I will have a great saw that will last me a long time, and some knowledge to boot!
This saw leaks bar oil all the time. I am guessing that there is a gasket I could replace?

If you have problems with an unstable idle or a racing condition, you need to check further. If you crank the saw and it runs perfectly, then chalk the failure up to a mix problem.

Most saws leak some bar oil. Temperature fluctuations pressurize the tank and it has to go somewhere. If it is leaking oil from the bottom or front part of the crankcase, then you likely have a case gasket that is bad. This could also have caused a piston failure (I don't remember your symptoms and I didn't take time to re-read the thread.)

262's are great saws.....get it right and you will be a happy camper.

PS, I'm interested in your cylinder....

 

[ncfarmboy]

I use a nut drive that slightly smaller than the wrist pin. Hold rod over to the side I want the pin to come out tap nut driver til it comes out. Some are harder to remove than others. Smoking saw well worth the trouble. I've got 6 261's w/262 piston most ported w/MM.
Shep

 

[hunter365]

That was the longest shipment I have EVER dealt with. Whew!

Thanks for the advice everybody!

Well, I finally received my "Plug and Slug" and have installed it. I put my saw all back together and it looks great.
I followed some other threads advice and modified the muffler while I waited.
Now that I have it all put back together, I put in some new fuel, checked for spark, checked the fuel and air filter and gave her a good pull....and then another, and another, and another...and about 50 more. Nothing :*(
I used a little starter fluid (I know too much can pit a piston) still nothing.
I have never pulled the fly wheel, but could this be a timing issue? How can I know?
Back to the drawing board for sure.

I am seriously running out of time. Winter is just around the corner!

BTW I still have the Cylinder mmurphy. Not sure what I will do with it.

 

[Whiteman]

Put some of your mix in the spark plug hole for priming, not starter fluid. Did you mess with the carb screws? If you dont know how to adjust your carb then you need to do some searching how to adjust it or you can screw your new top end up. As nmurph said start by turning them clockwise until they seat then turn out counter-clockwise one turn and start from there.

 

[stihlman95]

sounds like your not getting any fire to the plug,if starter fluid was put in it and it didnt start, you have a problem with spark, check to see if you have any.

 

[SkippyKtm]

Since you are going to rebuild it, make sure that you can determine the cause of the initial problem. If you put the new slug and jug on it without being sure that it was a fuel line, you will just have the same thing happen. A pressure/vac test will ensure that you have no air leaks and the problem was in the fuel line or carb settings.

Be sure the fuel line is good, they tend to split/crack where they go through the tank. Replace the filter as well. I use tygon fuel line on the Huskys; I like the fact that it is translucent, you can see the fuel being drawn up the line as you prime the line during starting.

 

[nmurph]

That was the longest shipment I have EVER dealt with. Whew!

Thanks for the advice everybody!

Well, I finally received my "Plug and Slug" and have installed it. I put my saw all back together and it looks great.
I followed some other threads advice and modified the muffler while I waited.
Now that I have it all put back together, I put in some new fuel, checked for spark, checked the fuel and air filter and gave her a good pull....and then another, and another, and another...and about 50 more. Nothing :*(
I used a little starter fluid (I know too much can pit a piston) still nothing.
I have never pulled the fly wheel, but could this be a timing issue? How can I know?
Back to the drawing board for sure.

I am seriously running out of time. Winter is just around the corner!

BTW I still have the Cylinder mmurphy. Not sure what I will do with it.

You may have a coil that is bad. I would replace the plug, and don't use any more starting fluid as it strips the oil from your cylinder. It won't hurt to check the timing. I would also check the air gap (a business card will work fine) of the coil/FW.
One of my 262's ran fine at the end of the season and then wouldn't crank the next time I tried. A new (old) coil and it fired right off.

 

[Stumpys Customs]

That was the longest shipment I have EVER dealt with. Whew!

Thanks for the advice everybody!

Well, I finally received my "Plug and Slug" and have installed it. I put my saw all back together and it looks great.
I followed some other threads advice and modified the muffler while I waited.
Now that I have it all put back together, I put in some new fuel, checked for spark, checked the fuel and air filter and gave her a good pull....and then another, and another, and another...and about 50 more. Nothing :*(
I used a little starter fluid (I know too much can pit a piston) still nothing.
I have never pulled the fly wheel, but could this be a timing issue? How can I know?
Back to the drawing board for sure.

I am seriously running out of time. Winter is just around the corner!

BTW I still have the Cylinder mmurphy. Not sure what I will do with it.

I may have missed it, but did you replace the fuel line??? If not, do that first.
Another thing I may have missed, Did you fer sure figure out why the saw Quit ya in the first place??????

 

[hunter365]

Sounds good. I will try a little mixed gas in the cylinder.
No, I did not figure out what the prob. was before I replaced the piston and cylinder. I started there simply because I had the saw torn apart and found a scored piston.
I replaced the fuel line already, I like the idea of a clear line though. I have not replaced the filter. I am getting fuel. After a few cranks I can pull the gas line from the carb and there is always fuel there. Would it hurt my saw if I pulled the Filter off long enough to see if that makes a difference? What about an exterior filter instead? Pros/Cons
I was wondering about the air gap. A business card huh? I will try it.
The mix screws are both one full turn from set. Is it possible to set them different just to get it started and then work on tuning?
How do I know if it's the timing? I read about a key keeping the flywheel timed, how do I find that? Is it adjustable?
One last thing....Is it a bad idea to hook my cordless drill with a socket in it, up to my flywheel while I work on these issues so I don't have to pull the ripcord over and over?