"Join the narrow kerf revolution"

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For the non-stihl-heads, what exactly is "picco"? Maybe simply 3/8" LP? K.I.S.S. please.
It is a trademark along with timbersports and a whole page full that Stihl has. I have seen Low-profile with a claimed trademark on oregon literature which may not have held up or they don't enforce. The 61 picco which I call pole saw has lighter overall construction and smaller cutters than the 63 picco. The 61 probably gets narrow kerf labeling I guess no one claims a trademark on that.
 
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I also used Picco bars with Carlton LP on my previous collection of small mount 210/230/025/250 (1123 series) saws. Lots of people prefer .325 on the 025/250, but it was slower running by a long shot. .325 also pinched on that saw a lot for some reason. I could never find any NK B&C for a Stihl small mount in .325.

Baileys has a combination mount which seems to also take the oregon 041 and 095(husky small mount on here) mine is in transit after they offered me my money back or wait. http://www.baileysonline.com/Chains...25-Pitch-72-Drive-Links---Universal-Mount.axd If 72 works out on Stihl it is an evenly spaced tooth configuration to put a non narrow kerf skip .325 chain. edit; Baileys doesn't charge the card until shipped and breaks apart their shipping charges so offering money back isn't correct the way I see it.

The carlton/woodland pro 0.043 chain while not a safety design has the same cutters and most likely tie straps as their 0.050 offering so not a narrow kerf the way I see it comapred to 90 oregon or 61 stihl.



I also could not find a picco rim drive for the 025/250. I had several with .325 rims, but I had to run spur sprockets with Picco. They make Picco rim/drum for the 211 now though, and they are the exact same size as the 025/250.

I put the below text in file before the major site meltdown. This has been discussed before
Stihl offers 3/8 picco rim and sprocket kit as an option.

Part number 1123 007 1030.


023 what others?

021,023,025
Stihl use mini rim.....Oregon use small rim

7T rim, 0000 642 1240
8T rim, 0000 642 1241

End of pasted material

The 231,241,251 have a rim drive kit (1123 007 1030) it is a mini spline and the most expensive of all their sprockets (or at least I was told that) but going from picco to .325 is easy. They also show a six tooth spur but it seems not available at this time. That would seem the way to go to go long bar if you can find or modify the tail to taper down enough. I just typed in that number from the bag the parts came in and wonder why I had to stand there for 10 minutes to be told a six tooth rim spur drum is unavailable.
 
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Is there any difference between the Oregon "Micro-lite PRO" bar and the Husqvarna oem NK bar ?
 
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Yes the Stihl PS/PS3 chain is quite popular here. The minor drawback I have understood sofar is that inserting a wedge in the narrow cut can sometimes be difficult. The reason they introduced it was, at least I belive it, that they were loosing ground to husqvarna.
But it is the only full chisel 3/8 lowpro/hobby/picco chain that I am aware of.

As far as chain breaking, that is a good question I haven't seen, in all the years I am here, answered. I have only had it happen once on a Stihl 180 /2hp saw. The reason was, after closer inspection, that I had filed into the material building the eyelet for the rivet. It ripped only on the one side I filed into. Since it happens seldom getting info on it is difficult.

7
 
The carlton/woodland pro 0.043 chain while not a safety design has the same cutters and most likely tie straps as their 0.050 offering so not a narrow kerf the way I see it comapred to 90 oregon or 61 stihl.
Interesting - are you sure about that? I have a couple of loops of the Carlton/WoodlandPRO 0.043 but I have not used them yet. The cutters looked narrower, but I did not measure and maybe saw what I expected to see. I'll have to get out the callipers when I get home.

I really like the 0.043"/90S I run on my 142. I've been considering trying some of the 0.325 NK stuff.

Interestingly, Oregon also had full chisel 0.325" lo profile chain that was full kerf - 33SL. The SL stands for SLow. Even if I ground the shark fins off of it and sharpened it the best I could it is bog slow compared to the 20BPX semi chisel I use now. It had to move a full kerf in little bites and there just wasn't anything you could do to make it fast.
 
Ah yes, to clarify what some have said above, there is also an NK in Picco/LP that Stihl calls "Micro Mini" that is 0.043", called PMMC3, which replaces the older PMN. They sell it on the 170/171, 180/181, and 192 saws. Stihl has never made a NK .325 that I am aware of, but other companies do. Stihl also only makes .325 in 0.063 gauge. If you want to see what all these chain sizes are like, look in any Stihl catalog, or online here:

http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/saw-chains/
 
Interesting - are you sure about that? I have a couple of loops of the Carlton/WoodlandPRO 0.043 but I have not used them yet. The cutters looked narrower, but I did not measure and maybe saw what I expected to see. I'll have to get out the callipers when I get home.

I really like the 0.043"/90S I run on my 142. I've been considering trying some of the 0.325 NK stuff.

Interestingly, Oregon also had full chisel 0.325" lo profile chain that was full kerf - 33SL. The SL stands for SLow. Even if I ground the shark fins off of it and sharpened it the best I could it is bog slow compared to the 20BPX semi chisel I use now. It had to move a full kerf in little bites and there just wasn't anything you could do to make it fast.

Yes I am sure enough to make a rating for the 44 driver loop at Bailey's.

That 33sl is where I see the trademark
ProductDetail_BlackDot.gif
Low-profile™ Probably like the new safety gasoline cans the first ones were designed to take it out on the consumer.
 

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Yes I am sure enough to make a rating for the 44 driver loop at Bailey's.

That 33sl is where I see the trademark
ProductDetail_BlackDot.gif
Low-profile™ Probably like the new safety gasoline cans the first ones were designed to take it out on the consumer.
Yeah, look at that! That won't be any faster at all. Thanks for the heads up - shame I bought two loops of it.
 
Yes the Stihl PS/PS3 chain is quite popular here. The minor drawback I have understood sofar is that inserting a wedge in the narrow cut can sometimes be difficult.

7
Yep,I run 3/8lp PS on my 420 and it is a little hard to get the wedges in,maybe that's why God put so many rocks on this farm.I'm never far from a hammer.
 
I am curently using 95VPX (Narrow Kerf Oregon) on my small saw. Unfortunately I just invested in a bar for that chain. I first bought a couple of loops of the 95VPX as i liked the idea of removing less material for making the same cut and assumed "that's logic it's much faster". But the big grin never appeared on my face for some reason. I don't think it's much faster than normal 21BP chain. And for some reason I find it much harder to really "hit the groove" when filling the chain and never seems happy with the performance of my efforts. Seems like I get much better results with the good old style 21BP chain. For now i'll burn up the last 3 loops and get back to 21BP. Heck maybe i'll come to terms with the new kid after 3 loops and stick with it? Nahh!
Anyone else on here that's having a hard time with sharpening and the performance of 95VPX???

Motorsen
 
63PS wouldn't hold up to to a 562. That video is not for the U.S. market. I cannot even get the the Picco bar for a MS261 shown in the video. I have no clue if you could get one for a Husky.

can you get a 3003 000 6313 where you're from? i have one on order for an 024 which should be a 16" 3/8 picco bar…since its a 3003 mount it should also fit a 261.
 
And for some reason I find it much harder to really "hit the groove" when filling the chain and never seems happy with the performance of my efforts. Seems like I get much better results with the good old style 21BP chain. For now i'll burn up the last 3 loops and get back to 21BP. Heck maybe i'll come to terms with the new kid after 3 loops and stick with it? Nahh!
Anyone else on here that's having a hard time with sharpening and the performance of 95VPX???

Motorsen

Try using the Husky roller guide kit for the H30 chain. The H30 is the same chain as 95VP/X. The guide sets the level of the file to get a good hook and the files are just a tad smaller in diameter. It also has a progressive raker plate.

Standard 95VP only has less than 4 degrees of cutting angle on the rakers. The progressive raker plate will move the cutting angle to 4.2 degrees for 'Hard' wood and 5.6 degrees for 'Soft' wood.
 
Try using the Husky roller guide kit for the H30 chain. The H30 is the same chain as 95VP/X. The guide sets the level of the file to get a good hook and the files are just a tad smaller in diameter. It also has a progressive raker plate.

Standard 95VP only has less than 4 degrees of cutting angle on the rakers. The progressive raker plate will move the cutting angle to 4.2 degrees for 'Hard' wood and 5.6 degrees for 'Soft' wood.

I always use those guides for the rakers, and usually the "soft" side of it.

The H30/95VP(X) need the same 3/16" (4.8mm) files as the LP(X) and the RS(C) in .325.

As it is, the only issue I have with the .325NK/Pixel concept is that there are no chisel chain option - and that is a major issue to me, since most of my wood is "clean and green". ;)
 
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Nope. Not a good part number for me.

Suck...I hope I actually get mine...I know there was also a 18" picco offered for the 024 at one time that actually showed nla but the 16" was available...im the Midwest by the way
 
Now after reading that astute post up there from mr sawtroll I'm wondering...are you still able to get the wide nose bars?

Are you bore cutting a lot, since you ask about that?

Surely the wide tip (13t in 3/8) will be nice for that, but otherwise I don't see any advantage with them - they just are heavier (and a tad shorter to fit the same dl count?).
Also 11t and even 10t bars bore cut good enough for me, I don't really feel handicapped when doing it, as the focus is on doing it safely, and at the right amount and angles, rather than pure speed.....

Using Oregon LP or LPX chain likely help a bit on the speed, as opposed to RS/RSC or LG/LGX - but Stihl RSK likely will beat them all for bore cutting (never tried it myself).

If the focus is on fast borecutting, the winning combo likely is a 13t bar nose, and an RSK Chain - but how relevant is that to most of the members here?
 
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