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I checked them and they didn't look bad, so I wiped them off, and put a dab of oil on the contact on the case and put a washer in there to make sure they were making contact and still go no spark. But I was just doing a rough go over, I will need to be more thorough when I have more time.

When I did mine it didn't look bad, but I hit both sides with a little sand paper to make sure there was good contact. After that I had nice blue spark and the saw fired right up.

Good luck on yours.
 
You are correct!!! Your prize is a refreshing beverage of your choice from your ice box!!

Pictures, or it didn't happen.

Well, I did - but no pictures. I failed to find out how to transfer pictures from my current phone to the computer. It was easy with my older one, but I didn't think of it when getting a new phone - imo phones are for talking and short messages, nothing else.

I refuse to join the idiotic I-phone trend.
 
LOL.....Kev....lighten up a tad...Niko speaks in a global thing...and his research is equally as global......he has spent tens of thousands of hours researching a lot of what we discuss........there are saws run daily all over the planet...each area has different forests with different needs.....the PNW is only one rather small fraction of that. You guys cut the really large trees.......really large.....softwoods....other locals cut nearly as large hardwoods....way differing needs from saws and chains.....and addressing the chain/pitch/guage thing.......the old roller nose bars would run 3/8 or .404 as long as the guage was correct.......one is not dependent on the other as far as the bar itself is concerned......only the sprocket tip needs to be correct for the pitch of the chain.....and the bar for the guage........personally I run 0.058 on every saw I own.......I have one 0.050 bar......and that was my mistake in ordering.....

Never acknowledged 'dual' bars than ran .404 and 3/8". I mean it's rather pointless here in the PNW as it was always .404 bars in either .058 or more commonly, .063 gauge with skip tooth chisel. I started in old roller nose bars-General, then went to Oregon and finally to Cannon. I can appreciate different settings all over the world. But it wasn't common practice to take the big .404 pro chain and try to make it work on smaller .050 bars like Niko alluded to. I don't care what was hypothetically possible. And like I said, if anyone was ever doing that, show me at least a discussion about it and a reason they did that.

No doubt I even used 'dual purpose' bars without even knowing it. Like I said, there was no reason to do a 3/8” conversion like that. All my large J'red run .058 gauge bars. That was the correct bar gauge for those saws if you wanted to run .404 pro chisel. .063 was too much for those saws to handle. Back in the day(OK, everyone toast!), when the people at Baileys knew what they were talking about and selling, that's the bar gauge they sold you for .404 pro chisel on the 80/90.

So I guess the moral here is;I won't talk about past practices on a world scale if he won't talk about past practices in the PNW.

Kevin
 
Next L 1 H 7/8



You got it now...just make sure the instant it's buried in wood it quits 4stroking and screams evenly. Are you close to 3/4 out on high(sure sounds like it...don't be tempted to turn in further than 3/4)? And as a FYI, never run a powerhead like that without a bar....bad juju. Do all that with the bar on it.

Kevin
 
I checked them and they didn't look bad, so I wiped them off, and put a dab of oil on the contact on the case and put a washer in there to make sure they were making contact and still go no spark. But I was just doing a rough go over, I will need to be more thorough when I have more time.

Take some plumber's sand cloth(not the kind with the holes) and drag it through the points one side at a time. There's an almost invisible coating of corrosion that forms in there(especially in saws that sit for long periods)...you need to make sure that's knocked out....don't trust your eyes. You must have corrosion issues in that balmy climate. We had them bad in MO. We're all tellin' ya to stay with this factory points system because it's nearly bullet proof once set-up right. I've been in my 80 point box three times in 35+yrs. One pull saw when warm....1-3 pulls even in the dead of winter when cold. My 90 is the same.

Kevin
 
Two rings are.....better for longevity and a lot of other reasons!

Kind of a rare duck they say. Little brother to the 70e, not a lot were sold in NA. There's a collector out there that is trying to have every J'reds from the XA onward....the 66e had eluded him for a very long time....finally found one.

Kevin
 
Finally getting around to cleaning up the 66e I acquired this summer. I don't remember what @SawTroll said about witch one had one ring and witch one had two rings between the 66e and the 70e. Some of the 66e's were rebuilt with 70e cylinders. This one has 2 rings.

View attachment 542611

Two rings usually means that it is a 66e top end, not a 70e one.
 
Take some plumber's sand cloth(not the kind with the holes) and drag it through the points one side at a time. There's an almost invisible coating of corrosion that forms in there(especially in saws that sit for long periods)...you need to make sure that's knocked out....don't trust your eyes. You must have corrosion issues in that balmy climate. We had them bad in MO. We're all tellin' ya to stay with this factory points system because it's nearly bullet proof once set-up right. I've been in my 80 point box three times in 35+yrs. One pull saw when warm....1-3 pulls even in the dead of winter when cold. My 90 is the same.

Kevin
Well I will most definitely give this a try when I get back home, and I thought this saw had an electronic ignition and not points? Did I miss something because I don't understand some of the lingo on here, I'm still really new at this, only been at it a little over a month now.
 
Two rings are.....better for longevity and a lot of other reasons!

Kevin

That's debatable, ay least there are some +/- with it - but I'm not going there in this thread.

Some people leave out the lower ring on two ring pistons when having the top end apart - or replace the piston with a one ring one when it is an option.
 
Well I will most definitely give this a try when I get back home, and I thought this saw had an electronic ignition and not points? Did I miss something because I don't understand some of the lingo on here, I'm still really new at this, only been at it a little over a month now.

I was just responding to a thread about J'reds and points...if the saw in question is a 70e, then yes, no points! What saw are you referring to? OK I remember, we were talking about where to get a factory module for your saw(70e), correct?

Kevin
 
That's debatable, ay least there are some +/- with it - but I'm not going there in this thread.

Some people leave out the lower ring on two ring pistons when having the top end apart - or replace the piston with a one ring one when it is an option.

Certainly is debatable and even subjective by experience....no - in two rings other than they rev slower then one ring pistons. But yeah, not going there with you.

Kevin
 
I was just responding to a thread about J'reds and points...if the saw in question is a 70e, then yes, no points! What saw are you referring to? OK I remember, we were talking about where to get a factory module for your saw(70e), correct?

Kevin
Yes it is a 70e so should I still hit them with sand paper or plumbers cloth per @beavis331 suggestion?
 
Yes it is a 70e so should I still hit them with sand paper or plumbers cloth per @beavis331 suggestion?

Just that one brass connection that Robin discussed earlier...and putting the washer in between so that you're certain of contact. I think you said you did that and no joy? Also, pull that wire off that grounds to the OFF/ON switch....so you know it's not the switch or a bad wire. If the module is going to ground, you're not gonna get spark just the same as a bad module.

Kevin
 
Just that one brass connection that Robin discussed earlier...and putting the washer in between so that you're certain of contact. I think you said you did that and no joy? Also, pull that wire off that grounds to the OFF/ON switch....so you know it's not the switch or a bad wire. If the module is going to ground, you're not gonna get spark just the same as a bad module.

Kevin
Well I did pull the wire off of the on/off switch and tried but nothing happened, but if the contacts are still dirty then it would have been for nothing. I will try running some of that plumbers cloth over it and then go back to square 1
 
Well I did pull the wire off of the on/off switch and tried but nothing happened, but if the contacts are still dirty then it would have been for nothing. I will try running some of that plumbers cloth over it and then go back to square 1

NO! Lol...you have no contacts(points), electronic ignition.....did you try cleaning up that brass connection that Robin talks about? I'm pretty sure there was a pic & location to go with that.

Kevin
 
NO! Lol...you have no contacts(points), electronic ignition.....did you try cleaning up that brass connection that Robin talks about? I'm pretty sure there was a pic & location to go with that.

Kevin
That was the connection I was talking about that I looked at but I didn't really see anything that looked like corrosion on there, it's also the same connection I stuck a small washer in. And if I'm not mistaken it was silver looking, but I believe someone said they can be nickel plated?
 

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