Jonsered Chainsaws

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The 268XP setup uses the block. I tap into the impulse corridor in it to pick up the impulse using a fuel line inlet nipple from an older Tillotson carb. Or you can bore the carb body for the impluse and replace the top cover of the carb with one without the impulse pickup. The hole is already started in the end of the carb so you just have to be careful not to overbore!!

I got that stand of ebay from a going out of business saw shop in the PNW....no idea what brand...not a mark to be seen anywhere and I've looked it over hard trying to find out where to get another. It works great!! I lucked out and picked this one off for $90.00 delivered.

Cantdog

So the 268XP P/C kit bolts up to the 630/670 case with no mods, and the muffler studs are the same?

I like the block setup and would love to get rid of the 670 boot and pulse line.
 
Cantdog

So the 268XP P/C kit bolts up to the 630/670 case with no mods, and the muffler studs are the same?

I like the block setup and would love to get rid of the 670 boot and pulse line.

Yes bolts right up. I don't like muffler studs...so I use bolts but the holes are the same too. It's just a matter of getting the correct bolts for the intake...670 bolts are to short and to fat...the 268 used a rather small dia threaded bolt with a plastic ferrel the length of the unthreaded part so the small dia bolt fits the elbow, carb and manifold...all stock parts just have to have the right combo. I'll try to get some pics today of the 630/268XP parts setup and a couple pics of my 61/268XP in the carb area and how I set that one up. Try to post them up this evening..
 
Jonsered 670 conversion to stock Husqvarna 268xp. Thanks to Cantdog for information regarding the impulse conversion on the Jonsered carb. I referenced Steveo_supremo's rebuild of the same saw he did some time ago.
Drilled the Jonsered carb this morning without incident. Set the carb rich and the saw started in 5 pulls. 2 pulls to start the saw again 3-4 hours later. I used the Husqvarna 272xp manifold and sealing collar and the two long carb mounting bolts. Now I need a 22 inch chain.

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Just picked up another 670 carcass today (1997 model) so I think it will get a Northwood Saw 268 P/C kit if I can come up with a few other pieces.
 
Nice almondgt!!!

cambl...sorry I didn't get those pics on last night..somthing came up. But here are some pics of the 630/268XP project. These are pics of everything dry fit to make sure it all worked together and I had all the right bits. Next the cyl goes to the beadblaster and the the new Meteor will be opened up and the cyl ported. Also there are a few pics of my 61/268XP that built a couple yrs ago...it runs exxcellent and is pretty much my "go to" saw. I believe I'll bore the carb on this build rather than do it the way I did before, though this worked perfectly and has not given one bit of trouble. But I'm all about keeping it simple.
 
Looks great. At least you have a clean saw to start with that doesn't look too beat up.

The bones I've been picking up at the saw shops are hammered! But I guess that says a lot for the 630/670 design. They can take a ton of abuse.
 
Next set...the first 2 are the 268XP cyl, manifold, carb, bolts and elbow. The end shot of the carb shows the pilot hole in the correct position to continue bore to complete the impulse corridor. This is a 230 carb from an early 670. The rest are of my 61/268XP with the late model recirc 250A from a late model 670 Super or Champ. I built this saw out of stuff I had already. So the process was more of "how to make it work" rather than what would work best.
 
The next set is of the 61 and how I over came the problems encountered with puting a Jonsered carb on a Husky The last pic in the last post requires a bit more explantion "630 Build 012.jpg" This shows how I routed the impulse line and one thing I would do differently, if I were to do it this way again, is to move the impulse pickup nipple closer to the carb as where I put it interefered with the partition in the top cover,,,not a biggie, I just trimmed the cover to fit but would not have bee necessary if I had moved it 1/4 inch closer to the carb. I think I will bore this carb and do away with the external impulse as others here have done. The other 2 things I had to remedy was that this is a 250A recirc carb so I had to bore the case and fuel tank for the return line and when it came to hook up the choke, I didn't have a Jonsered choke pull....this puzzled me for a bit as the Husky one hooks to the carb very close in and down, the Jred one hooks on quite a ways from the carb body and up. However.....I found by simply flipping the Husky choke control over it fit perfectly!! I did have to cut a small notch for it to fit over the rear carb 670 type mounting bolt head (which is not really necessary on the solid mount manifold) But anyway this saw has not only the Jonsered internal automatic trigger lock/high idle but also the regular Husky thumb actuated trigger lock/high idle. Sorry for the Husky pics in the Jonsered thread but I really love this saw..which is why I am doing the same thing with the 630 plus a few more minor changes so I can have evrything I like about the Husky in a saw which is the right color!!!
 
Looks great. At least you have a clean saw to start with that doesn't look too beat up.

The bones I've been picking up at the saw shops are hammered! But I guess that says a lot for the 630/670 design. They can take a ton of abuse.

Actually the case I started with was in rough shape as was the crank......so after a bit I discarded that and bought this real clean but stripped case and crank from Brice for like $48.00 delivered. Put new seals and oil pump with a new oring and my flywheel/ign etc. Top cover is off ebay I bought thinking that it would fit the new style cases which of course I didn't and air filer cover is NOS Jonserd 630. So this as a build from bits but I do have the donor 630 which has been picked clean of useful parts and other spares kicking around....the only thing I'm lacking is a chutch cover brake assembly. I do have a 670 cover that is mint that I can use but that is slated for the next build which will be a "672 West Coast Clone" LOL!! I have most everything for that as well but again once you get to it the 670 cases I have are not the best so I am waiying for something better to come along. I have a new crank with mains installed and new meteor piston to go in the blasted 272 cyl. I am also lacking the bolts to mount the carb because the regular 272 bolts are not long enough as I have the West Coast intake elbow and V stack. The elbow is larger so none of the stock bolts of either brand are long enough....I'll come up with something I'm sure when I get there!!!LOL!!
 
Cantdog

I would consider you a pioneer in the Husky/Jonsered top end conversions. Carb/top end swaps are relatively simple when others have experimented and provide information like you have Cantdog. For that, I say thank you. :msp_thumbup:
 
670 top covers

Do you guys know if the 268 top cover fits the 670 (new case)? Looks to me like it would.

It's hard to find nice Jony top covers that are decent, and they are obsolete if you try to buy new.

Northwood offers a 268 cover that looks like a reproduction (?) so maybe we could get him to make a batch in black instead of orange. At least the color would be right!
 
Campi, regardless of color, the shape of the Husky top covers may look a bit odd on a Jonsered, and not even all covers of the same brand will fit on all cases of the same brand........
 
Do you guys know if the 268 top cover fits the 670 (new case)? Looks to me like it would.

It's hard to find nice Jony top covers that are decent, and they are obsolete if you try to buy new.

Northwood offers a 268 cover that looks like a reproduction (?) so maybe we could get him to make a batch in black instead of orange. At least the color would be right!

Husqvarna 268 272xp covers won't fit jonsered 670. Jonsered 670 had different versions of cylinder covers as well meaning the mounting holes/screws are in different spots depending on the model/year of manufacture. The Jonsered 670 carburetor cover had a high a low version depending on the model/year of manufacture.
 
I just picked up this 930. Mechanically it is in great condition with 150 lbs compression and the piston and bore are perfect. It certainly seems to pull much stronger than my 920. It is a little rough cosmetically but should clean up OK. I know parts are hard to get but I 'd really like to replace the muff and also put a new air filter on it.
I know the air filters are NLA but is there some aftermarket set up I can use? I seem to remember seeing a stack filter on a Johnny at some time, like the one on the big Dolmars.

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Al.
 
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Husqvarna 268 272xp covers won't fit jonsered 670. Jonsered 670 had different versions of cylinder covers as well meaning the mounting holes/screws are in different spots depending on the model/year of manufacture. The Jonsered 670 carburetor cover had a high a low version depending on the model/year of manufacture.

Yes the early/late 670 covers are different but the 268 case looks identical to the 670 (at least in the IPL), except for paint color.
 
I think the 630/670 West Coast velocity stack will bolt right on to your 930, and you can use the K&N filter. Cut a nice hole in the air filter cover and you are done.

Other velocity stacks that fit the Husq 266/268 probably have the same bolt pattern, but I'm not sure on that.
 
How is this? Still very dirty!


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Your air filter is the same as the Jonsered 600 series saws. The style is the older version so I suspect any newer air filter that fits a Jonsered 625, 630, or 670 should fit as long as there is room under the carb cover. The standard Husqvarna 61, 266 air filters should work as well.
 
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