Jonsered Chainsaws

[bama]

I think the 630/670 West Coast velocity stack will bolt right on to your 930, and you can use the K&N filter. Cut a nice hole in the air filter cover and you are done.

Other velocity stacks that fit the Husq 266/268 probably have the same bolt pattern, but I'm not sure on that.

I am thinking that the 6-- series saw filter will fit on the 930. Never had the 930, so I can't be sure, but I thought I remember someone posting about that awhile ago.

 

[briantutt]

I can't remember how this steel bushing held the end of the starter rope. I know it was smashed onto the line but can't picture it in place. Been apart too long...does anyone know or better yet have a picture of it in place?

Brian

 

[almondgt]

Not sure you need the steel bushing at all. The knot in the end of the rope should be enough to keep the rope from slipping through the hole in the rotor.

 

[Chris J.]

I think the 630/670 West Coast velocity stack will bolt right on to your 930, and you can use the K&N filter. Cut a nice hole in the air filter cover and you are done.

Other velocity stacks that fit the Husq 266/268 probably have the same bolt pattern, but I'm not sure on that.

Personally, I wouldn't cut a 930 cover unless I happened to have a several spares, and/or didn't care about the fact that they're kind of rare and bring decent money on feePay.

 

[briantutt]

Not sure you need the steel bushing at all. The knot in the end of the rope should be enough to keep the rope from slipping through the hole in the rotor.

That's what I originally did then saw the bushing and remembered it was on there. I was sort of thinking the knot will get the spring wrapped up against it on every pull because part of stick up but maybe it will still be okay.

 

[cambl]

Personally, I wouldn't cut a 930 cover unless I happened to have a several spares, and/or didn't care about the fact that they're kind of rare and bring decent money on feePay.

Good point, I didn't thnk about that. I guess you could run it without the cover and then change it back to stock later if needed.

I wish I had saved a bunch of 920/930 parts !

 

[almondgt]

That's what I originally did then saw the bushing and remembered it was on there. I was sort of thinking the knot will get the spring wrapped up against it on every pull because part of stick up but maybe it will still be okay.

Maybe the end of the rope shouldn't have a knot. Just slip the metal clamp on the rope. Melt the end of the rope with a torch so it makes a small ball. Once the metal clamp is squeezed tightly against the melted ball of rope it won't allow the melted rope to slip through. The metal clamp maybe used to keep the rope flush with the bottom of the rotor. Not sure.

 

[Nardoo]

Hey guys, thanks for the heads up on the 930 filter. And Merry Christmas!
I will have a look in my Husky parts box for a filter - did not realise they might be the same. I think the velocity stacks look kind of nice but you are right, I should not mess up a 930.
I will post up some more pics when I am done. Here is a pic of my 920 (that I have since passed on to a real Johnny collector). It was just too nice to work - I was frightened of putting a scratch on it.

Al.

 

[Plankton]

Here is my 2188 everyday work saw still running like a dream

Brand spankin new around a year ago:

4 Bars, 15+ chains and countless hours later

 

[Cantdog]

I can't remember how this steel bushing held the end of the starter rope. I know it was smashed onto the line but can't picture it in place. Been apart too long...does anyone know or better yet have a picture of it in place?

Brian

Hey Brian Happy Holidays!!! Check this out.....I've seen quite a few done this way and never have seen one slip!! Works good.... no knot to be in the way..Just make sure you do it in the right direction like the pic...don't reverse it.

 

[briantutt]

Hey Brian Happy Holidays!!! Check this out.....I've seen quite a few done this way and never have seen one slip!! Works good.... no knot to be in the way..Just make sure you do it in the right direction like the pic...don't reverse it.

That looks simple enough. i will try that. Merry Christmas!

Brian

 

[cambl]

670 to 268 swap

I was getting ready to put a 670 back together with a used P/C when a couple of other members led me to the 268 P/C conversion. It's the same 50mm bore, but my main reason for doing this is to get rid of the 670 boot and pulse line.

Purchased the Gilardoni P/C kit and intake block from Northwood, seems to be very good qualtity. Found an old 670 intake elbow with the support foot, and so far it's all looking good.

Pics - I use an old 630 cylinder as a pressure/vac test jig
View attachment 213891

Dry fit of the carb, block, intake elbow, still need to change the carb top cover
View attachment 213892
View attachment 213893

Piston/cyl
View attachment 213894
View attachment 213890

More to follow after I get it all back together and running.

 

[JPeterson09]

Rear handle fix

Had a bit too much slop on the rear handle of my dad's 52e for him to use it, so I drilled through the center of the av buffer where it's hollow, filed down a 1/4" screw to length, filed one side of a washer flat to fit on top of the shelf of the handguard. Then heated up the washer, laid it into the plastic with a pliers, put a washer on the bolt, filled the center of the av buffer with silicone, and tightened the whole thing up. It's not pretty, but it got the saw back to being in use again. :msp_unsure:
View attachment 213963

 

[Cantdog]

I was getting ready to put a 670 back together with a used P/C when a couple of other members led me to the 268 P/C conversion. It's the same 50mm bore, but my main reason for doing this is to get rid of the 670 boot and pulse line.

Purchased the Gilardoni P/C kit and intake block from Northwood, seems to be very good qualtity. Found an old 670 intake elbow with the support foot, and so far it's all looking good.

Pics - I use an old 630 cylinder as a pressure/vac test jig
View attachment 213891

Dry fit of the carb, block, intake elbow, still need to change the carb top cover
View attachment 213892
View attachment 213893

Piston/cyl
View attachment 213894
View attachment 213890

Looking good........The Gillardoni is very good quality....and will run good....but to bad you couldn't have come up with a 268XP cyl as it makes power more like the 670. The first itteration of the 61/268XP in my sig started with the Gillardoni, ported and it was much stronger than the 61 but doesn't hold a candle to the XP P&C. If you are not into more power then you'll probably enjoy it.

 

[redunshee]

Jonsered(s) 50cc class saw

Have a hankering for a 50cc size Jonsered(s) saw. Don't own any Jonsered(s), mainly old Poulans and Stihls. Without starting a war, taking into consideration I prefer older saws, which 50cc saw provides the best combination of weight, power and reliabilty. Maybe this saw doesn't exist. Thought I'd ask the pros. I know that the 49sp is an old points saw, heavy slower than the newer saws, but reliable. Am I correct that the 490 replaced the 49SP?
Bob

 

[Cantdog]

Any of the older Jonsereds saw are an issue with parts...NLA...the 490 and 590 are faster than the 49/52 but feature a lot of plastic as opposed to a full mag saw, Also they are not considered "true" Jonsereds as they are a Partner/Pioneer design.. I guess it would depend on what your intent for the saw would be. LOL!! You can tell my preferences by my sig!! The 49sp is just what it says it is..a semi-pro saw. Which in old Jonsereds terms means that they took a pro saw (52/52E), lightened it, changed the ign, P&C and made it cheaper to produce. Very high quality for a ranch/farmer/homeowner saw. The 490/590 are faster but are just as hard, or perhaps even harder to get parts for than the 49/52 etc., though they are newer, as they made and sold an absolute ton of 49sp saws.

 

[8433jeff]

If you only want a Jonserud, the one to have is the 49sp or 52e. As Cantdog said, those are the finest examples, and the easiest to find parts for. If you want one to use as a firewood saw, the sexy version of the 346, whatever that is (2153?) would be the one to have, but no where near the class of the 49 or 52, IMHO.

 

[Modifiedmark]

Bob, looks like these fellas got you answered up pretty good.

All I have to add is that you noticed they made no reference to adding a 500 series Jred like the 510, 520 etc, and for good reasons! Thats all I'm going to say about that at this time.

The only other thing I want to expand on is to Robin, and that is the 490/590 saws were only Partner based saws. Pioneer had nothing to do with these as far as I know except to get there name added to the later ones after the big Elux takeover and company lumping togethers that went on then.

Sounds like you need a 49SP or 52 to mess with, and I think you might like one if your looking for nostalgia.

 

[cambl]

Bob, looks like these fellas got you answered up pretty good.

All I have to add is that you noticed they made no reference to adding a 500 series Jred like the 510, 520 etc, and for good reasons! Thats all I'm going to say about that at this time.

I don't like to speak poorly of Jonsered saws since I grew up with them, but the 510 was really not their best work. However, it was the first horizontally split "clamshell" crankcase saw that Jred produced (unless I'm forgetting one). The best use for a 510 is to clean it up and hang it from the rafters in your shop as a piece of history, and only if you get it for free.

The 520 was better, and the 535 evolved into a pretty decent weekender saw.

If you can find a really nice 490/590 buy it. Great saw even though it is not "true".

 

[Modifiedmark]

Bob, looks like these fellas got you answered up pretty good.

All I have to add is that you noticed they made no reference to adding a 500 series Jred like the 510, 520 etc, and for good reasons! Thats all I'm going to say about that at this time.

I don't like to speak poorly of Jonsered saws since I grew up with them, but the 510 was really not their best work. However, it was the first horizontally split "clamshell" crankcase saw that Jred produced (unless I'm forgetting one). The best use for a 510 is to clean it up and hang it from the rafters in your shop as a piece of history, and only if you get it for free.

The 520 was better, and the 535 evolved into a pretty decent weekender saw.

If you can find a really nice 490/590 buy it. Great saw even though it is not "true".

All true enough but I was going to let that sleeping dog lay.