Jonsered Chainsaws

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It's probably different for the smaller bars. I've never had a saw with less than a 28" bar. I always on the older J'reds, back the screw out until I feel it's jumped off the thread and then back in maybe half a turn. The idea is if you're using a saw all day, you run out of oil & gas at about the same time....unless you have the addition of a manual oiler as well. If you're trying to save money on bar oil and you're gonna let it run out of oil before it runs out on gas, you'll just cake the cutters with hardened pitch. In fact, that's a good way to tell if you're running out of oil...look at the top of your cutters.

Kevin
 
That 910E that Robin alerted me to on ebay(thanks again, Robin!) finally came. Boy, the carrier(UPS) did their best to destroy the box. It's like I always say, anything sent to me from east of the Mississippi River is just beat all to hell. Made it though unscathed....very pleased with what I got for the price. Since parts are NLA on these old saws, only us enthusiasts try to find the right parts. Everyone else who tries to use these old saws just **** with them unmercifully. This saw is no exception. However, it does have some critical AV handle mount parts intact I've been looking for and they feel fine. Lots of good parts on this saw....well worth the $100 auction price. I'm probably gonna tear this saw down and catalog it. It's restorable sure, but the parts I need for it are really scarce and I don't see the point in having two running 910's, when I originally just wanted ONE nice example.....lol

Now if someone would just buy that full-wrap on the 910 ebay page for $125..lol!! It does have the rear handle, but I don't think any AV's with it. Seller says the full-wrap's rare...yeah, but not $125 'rare'.

Kevin
 
The last 2 saws had really nice OEM Mahle cylinders, so I was able to use those along with Meteor pistons.

Thanks, the reason I asked is that Mahle, KS and Gilardoni all made OEM cylinders for at least the Super/Champ ones.

I have no further question when they are Mahle. ;)
 
Sorry about that Carl. I looked in the owner's manual for the CS2171 and here's what it says there.

The oil pump is adjustable. Adjustments are made by turning the screw using a screwdriver or combination spanner. The machine is supplied from the factory set to 1 turn open. Turning the screw clockwise will reduce the oil flow and turning the screw anti-clockwise will increase the oil flow.
Recommended settings: These recommendations apply to JONSERED chain oil, for other chain oils increase the oil flow by one step. ! WARNING! The engine must not be running when making adjustments.
Bar -15": 1 turn from the closed position.
Bar 15" -18": 2 turns from the closed position.
Bar 18" -24": 3 turns from the closed position.
Bar 24" -: 4 turns from the closed position.

That's what the manual says, but 3 turns out was more than enough for a 24" bar on my 372xpg.
 
Maybe not convenient to do it in that order - but it likely makes it possible to put the HD setup on the red saw?

I'd put an orange starter cover on it as well, to remove the "overlap" issue. ;)

I have a husky recoil on the way from DefinativeDave. I can eventually change it back to the correct J-Red top should one turn up reasonable. The husky plastics are from China at fifteen bux including air filter and clips.[emoji7]

My client 'Bill' is not one who is picky about cosmetics.[emoji6]
 
That 910E that Robin alerted me to on ebay(thanks again, Robin!) finally came. Boy, the carrier(UPS) did their best to destroy the box. It's like I always say, anything sent to me from east of the Mississippi River is just beat all to hell. Made it though unscathed....very pleased with what I got for the price. Since parts are NLA on these old saws, only us enthusiasts try to find the right parts. Everyone else who tries to use these old saws just **** with them unmercifully. This saw is no exception. However, it does have some critical AV handle mount parts intact I've been looking for and they feel fine. Lots of good parts on this saw....well worth the $100 auction price. I'm probably gonna tear this saw down and catalog it. It's restorable sure, but the parts I need for it are really scarce and I don't see the point in having two running 910's, when I originally just wanted ONE nice example.....lol

Now if someone would just buy that full-wrap on the 910 ebay page for $125..lol!! It does have the rear handle, but I don't think any AV's with it. Seller says the full-wrap's rare...yeah, but not $125 'rare'.

Kevin
Glad that worked out for you Kevin....good to have parts around!!! Wow!! $125 is pretty darn spendy!! I picked up a NOS full wrap with heat for the 910E/EV off ebay, BIN for $50 free shipping a while back!!
 
I have a husky recoil on the way from DefinativeDave. I can eventually change it back to the correct J-Red top should one turn up reasonable. The husky plastics are from China at fifteen bux including air filter and clips.[emoji7]

My client 'Bill' is not one who is picky about cosmetics.[emoji6]

What parts are you looking for? I may have some!
 
I took out my 625 today and was having a heck of a time with it dying immediately after releasing the throttle while pulling out of the cut/ under load. I tried to keep leaning L until it was clearly hesitating upon throttle. The problem remained. Off load there is no problem coming down from WOT. I set the idle screw as high as possible. H was set to just perceive a slight burble. I was cutting at 4500'.

She is getting new fuel line, seals, O rings and clutch spring once they arrive. It responds and cuts well aside from that.

Any suggestions where to start chasing this one before the updates?

Thanks fellas.
 
If it's a Tilly HS carb, start with 1 1/2 out on the L and 1 turn out on the H. You can lean it a tad after that. If that doesn't do it, agreed, clean the carb and kit it. Also as said, do a vacuum and pressure test. What's the history....was it running OK and then in storage for a long time? History tell us a lot.

Kevin
 
Picked it up a bit ago. I cleaned the carb, new gaskets, diaphragms lever and needle. I haven't though pulled the welch plugs to check the low circuit. New fuel filter. I swapped the clutch spring off a 630 as it was engaging at lower rpm. Piston cylinder are clean. The saw has not seen a tough life. Release the throttle while under load at WOT and it drops too low and stops. Starts one pull each time after. L and H are around 7/8 and likely every other combination today lol.

Vacuum and pressure test saw and carb next. Got to try out the new Mityvac once I make some block-offs.

Thanks guys.
 
I took out my 625 today and was having a heck of a time with it dying immediately after releasing the throttle while pulling out of the cut/ under load. I tried to keep leaning L until it was clearly hesitating upon throttle. The problem remained. Off load there is no problem coming down from WOT. I set the idle screw as high as possible. H was set to just perceive a slight burble. I was cutting at 4500'.

She is getting new fuel line, seals, O rings and clutch spring once they arrive. It responds and cuts well aside from that.

Any suggestions where to start chasing this one before the updates?

Thanks fellas.

Personally if you're doing a fuel line and O-rings (which I assume are for the oil pump housing and flywheel side seal carrier)....I'd do a set of seals too...not expensive and you're there already. Also do a carb clean/kit......then you have the whole scene covered....
 

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