Lakeside53's --361 muffler mod w/photos

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Nice videos Metals. That saw sounds uber mean! What length bar? 32?
I'll have to get some video of my 372 as soon as the temperatures get above the negatives.

It's a generic Oregon 28"... When it goes to guide-bar heaven... I have my sights set on a Sugihara, or Oregon reduced weight.

Yeah, you guys are getting hammered over on the east side of the country. We've actually gotten a break from the cold and snow, and it's been in the 40's during the day. BRING ON SPRING! I'm ready!:clap:
 
It's a generic Oregon 28"... When it goes to guide-bar heaven... I have my sights set on a Sugihara, or Oregon reduced weight.

Yeah, you guys are getting hammered over on the east side of the country. We've actually gotten a break from the cold and snow, and it's been in the 40's during the day. BRING ON SPRING! I'm ready!:clap:

Hehehe, you and me are on the same page. I am wanting a Sugihara 32" really bad. I saw Tree Slingr's videos of his sugihara bar, and now I want one even more. Dam AS. I'm hoping after the muff-mod that the 372 will turn a 32" bar w/ full skip semi-chisel carlton really well.
great.gif
 
Hehehe, you and me are on the same page. I am wanting a Sugihara 32" really bad. I saw Tree Slingr's videos of his sugihara bar, and now I want one even more. Dam AS. I'm hoping after the muff-mod that the 372 will turn a 32" bar w/ full skip semi-chisel carlton really well.
great.gif

I got that 670 with full skip... Wasn't necessary. It pulls full comp just fine. I'd try a 32" on your 372 with full comp and a 7-pin first... And if it's too slow, switch to full-comp.

:cheers:
 
Do you guys think it's worth it to mod a 025? The saw will be used pretty much for just firewood, and cutting limbs and stuff. I have researched the 025 and most people say it is better for just bucking wood because it's real light but doesn't have a lot of power. Would I be better to mod it a little or leave it? I am also not sure if it has a fully adjustable carb yet because I haven't gotten the saw. Will hopefully have it in my hands on friday!

Thanks
 
Do you guys think it's worth it to mod a 025? The saw will be used pretty much for just firewood, and cutting limbs and stuff. I have researched the 025 and most people say it is better for just bucking wood because it's real light but doesn't have a lot of power. Would I be better to mod it a little or leave it? I am also not sure if it has a fully adjustable carb yet because I haven't gotten the saw. Will hopefully have it in my hands on friday!

Thanks

i modded my 250, and it helped a lot. i drilled about a 1/4 inch hole behind the little plate that bolts on in front of the muffler. that way when i am carving at a show, i can put the plate back on and the saw is quiet again.
 
Do you guys think it's worth it to mod a 025? The saw will be used pretty much for just firewood, and cutting limbs and stuff. I have researched the 025 and most people say it is better for just bucking wood because it's real light but doesn't have a lot of power. Would I be better to mod it a little or leave it? I am also not sure if it has a fully adjustable carb yet because I haven't gotten the saw. Will hopefully have it in my hands on friday!

Thanks

Welcome to AS. The older saws were not nearly as restrictive as today's saws are. Therefore, generally speaking, the results from muffler modding an older saw are not nearly as impressive as those results gained from opening up the muffler on a newer saw.You can open up your muffler and give it a try. You will need to time it in some wood both before & after modding to determine for sure if there are any realized gains. It will definitely sound louder and some equate loudness with power.:chainsawguy:
 
well, here is a pic of my mild muffler mod on my 036 qs. i made a plate to fit, so i can put the stock one back on when i am carving.
 
i modded my 250, and it helped a lot. i drilled about a 1/4 inch hole behind the little plate that bolts on in front of the muffler. that way when i am carving at a show, i can put the plate back on and the saw is quiet again.


Welcome to AS. The older saws were not nearly as restrictive as today's saws are. Therefore, generally speaking, the results from muffler modding an older saw are not nearly as impressive as those results gained from opening up the muffler on a newer saw.You can open up your muffler and give it a try. You will need to time it in some wood both before & after modding to determine for sure if there are any realized gains. It will definitely sound louder and some equate loudness with power.:chainsawguy:

Do you know off the top of your head if this is a two-piece muffler?


What do you think is the best way to do it? Should I do like mentioned above and just drill a bigger hole or should I go all out and take all the baffles and everything out and put a screen in?

Thanks for the help.
 
I finally decided to muffler mod my Jonsered 670 SuperII last night. I wanted to document the whole thing... But my dang camera batteries died on me!:censored: :censored:

I'll take a few more pics today, of the finished mod.

670Exhaustmod1-14-09001.jpg


This is the factory outlet, which I TIG'd closed.
670Exhaustmod1-14-09002.jpg


670Exhaustmod1-14-09003.jpg


670Exhaustmod1-14-09004.jpg


670Exhaustmod1-14-09007.jpg


670Exhaustmod1-14-09008.jpg


I cut the muffler with my Dremel and a cutoff wheel. Then I used a single cut bit to radius the ends.

VERY NICE!!!!!
 
026 muffler mod

I got this 026 last week and this site convinced me to mod the muffler so here goes. The baffle is a little different than other 026's on the site. The saw is date-stamped "S" which supposedly makes it a 1992 model, it's a non-pro.

Photo A shows the original four holes which are each 3/16" diameter (!) and located on the side of the baffle plate. I measured them, and believe me they really were that small.

Photo B adds two 3/16" holes on the top of the baffle.

Photo C shows the internal restrictor. It is a box that has twelve holes, 3/16" each, six on each side shown. After reading about another post, I decided not to remove the entire box. My reasoning was to maintain strength and direct heat flow towards the sides and bottom.

Photo D shows the mod. I used a dremel with a 1/2" round stone bit and plunged right in to enlarge the openings. On the baffle plate, I used a cutoff disk on the dremel to make 2 triangles by connecting the 6 holes as shown.

Then I de-burred everything with a small bastard file to avoid loosing sleep over the chance of a piece of steel rattling into the cylinder. I washed out the metal shavings with soap and cleaned the outside with alcohol, then gave a few coats of high-temp paint and baked the parts in the oven at 500F till the smoking stopped.

Photo E shows the painted result.

I opened up the carb a bit and now it cuts like mad !!!
10 inch frozen poplar with a 3/8" square chisel isn't enough to even test it.
I'm getting the itch to cut something down and make cookies out of it.
It's not even much louder but it sounds great, nice and poppy.
Thanks to all who posted how-to's.
 
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Do you know off the top of your head if this is a two-piece muffler?


What do you think is the best way to do it? Should I do like mentioned above and just drill a bigger hole or should I go all out and take all the baffles and everything out and put a screen in?

Thanks for the help.

the muffler on my 250 is a two-peice muffler. however, my saw was built from spare parts. also, my saw never had a baffle in it from the first day i had it. im pretty sure that all 025's and older 250's are two-peice. i am also pretty sure the older ones didnt have a baffle.
 
Do you know off the top of your head if this is a two-piece muffler?


What do you think is the best way to do it? Should I do like mentioned above and just drill a bigger hole or should I go all out and take all the baffles and everything out and put a screen in?

Thanks for the help.

also, to answer your question, you should drill a new port at a spot that it will not blow exhaust on any plastic. be careful not to drill too big of a hole. remember, you can always drill it bigger. start around 1/4. on a bigger saw, start with two 1/4 inch holes.
 
the muffler on my 250 is a two-peice muffler. however, my saw was built from spare parts. also, my saw never had a baffle in it from the first day i had it. im pretty sure that all 025's and older 250's are two-peice. i am also pretty sure the older ones didnt have a baffle.

also, to answer your question, you should drill a new port at a spot that it will not blow exhaust on any plastic. be careful not to drill too big of a hole. remember, you can always drill it bigger. start around 1/4. on a bigger saw, start with two 1/4 inch holes.

thanks for the tips
 
I am looking at doing a muffler mod on my jred 630. Do i have to close off the factory port or just leave it open also? Also how do you change the screen on these with it welded under a pipe or washer? Do you just clean it with a brush?
 

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