Lakeside53's --361 muffler mod w/photos

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Nice work with muffler Ispansco :)

And a question,,, what lens do you use on your camera ??
I got a Nikon D80 with their kit lens 18-55, not a super lens, but has to work until I can buy some new ones ,,,,,,,,
 
Nikon D70s with Tamron 28-75mm F/2.8 XR Di LD

Nice work with muffler Ispansco :)

And a question,,, what lens do you use on your camera ??
I got a Nikon D80 with their kit lens 18-55, not a super lens, but has to work until I can buy some new ones ,,,,,,,,

Hello SWE#Kipp,

It is difficult to explain it everything without knowing how to speak English,:bang: I will do the best thing than it can. Your lens is not indeed good:( . I have used for these photos a Tamron 28-75mm F/2.8 XR Di LD Aspherical (IF), I believe that it is of the best thing of the market in its focal rank that can one be bought without divorcing of the woman. Also they are the Nikon of high range like the 28-70 F/2.8 the 17-35 F/2.8 and 17-55 F/2.8 DX. They all best ones but are heavy and very expensive. If you need a wide-angle I recommend the Tokina 12-24 F/4 As good as the Tamron is of the best thing than it is possible to be bought to a reasonable price. As important as the lenses is to know how to take advantage of the possibilities the camera, to read many forums and to practice much.:camera:

Greetings :cheers:

In order to value the lenses I recommend these Website to you:

http://www.photozone.de/active/surv...' or brand='Tokina AF' or brand='Vivitar AF'"

And:

http://www.photozone.de/8Reviews/index.html


:greenchainsaw:
 
Nice work with muffler Ispansco :)

And a question,,, what lens do you use on your camera ??
I got a Nikon D80 with their kit lens 18-55, not a super lens, but has to work until I can buy some new ones ,,,,,,,,

Is understood well what I wrote? :confused: :taped: :buttkick: :rolleyes:
 
Yes I understand you :)
I'm gonna look at two lenses, one is Nikon 18-200 vr and the other lens is Tamron 17-50 2,8 for the kind of photos I take those two lenses seems to team up nicely :)
 
The Tamron is very good lens, just as 28-75. The 18-70 is not very good but it is very practice by its ample focal rank. :cheers:
 
If anyone interested in a 338 mod i posted this awhile ago.

http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=50562

but received no feedback :( (not rep i want, feedback)
I like the fact all the 338 mods i've seen are crude, dirty hillbilly engineering...
feel right at home :)

here is one pic
attachment.php
 
On the "H" jet I adjust it according to the 4 cycle sound rather than using a tach, as your rpms will change also with the muffler mod. I like to hear 'some' 4 cycle sound; but, not too much. When set properly, the 4 cycle sound will smooth out when you place the saw in wood at WOT. This is the setting that gives me the best performance.
 
262xp muffler mod, and some ?'s

wowww, i just did a muffler mod to my 262xp and now its really putting out some power. I ended up keeping the original side opening on the muffler opend, and ended up drilling out the front of the muffler where the cover plate goes on it. I put a 1/2 pipe in it and cut it back at an angle so it doesn't' interfere with bucking on big logs. After i did this i tuned the carb and its running perfect. Mainly i just had to adjust the h setting because there was a really noticeable increace in rpm. I took it out today to show my friend who's a logger, and he couldnt believe how well it responded to the mod. I let him run it and he said he couldn't tell the difference between my saw and his 266se. I just hope it dosent end up wearing anything out.does anything usually go wrong with a saw after doing a mod like this? Oh, and another ? i have is what is the correct fuel mixture for the 262xp. Ive been running 50:1 in it with 93 octane.:greenchainsaw:
 
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The only thing that gets worn out is the mussles in your cheeks from grinning too much while cutting.

Real world the saw will run a bit cooler, but if it is producing more power and RPM there is no two ways about it that places a bit more load on internal engine parts. But on the other hand you run the saw less time to cut the same amount of wood so it would about equal out in the wash.

Just to be on the safe side I would add a little extra oil. 40:1 with good oil is cheep insurance. There is a lot of talk on mix ratio, but not too much can go wrong with a little extra, not so with any less than 50:1 mix.
 
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then just remove all the internals and open the factory port - it is is in the best position for the hot gas flow when cutting. I'm not sure the results will be materially different to what I did with the additional front port.

would it be possible, (is there a reason it couldn't be done) , to gut the inside as you say and then add a spark arrestor screen / pouch to the enlarged factory hole? a suitable screen material would have to be located,then figure a way to fix it to the inside of the muffler case , but as you say the factory location is the best. Thanks for your thoughts on this.
 
Anything's possible with enough time and money... but... not really. You'd have to open up the muffer and gut the old tube assembly that goes from the existing screen, then replace all of that.
 
I love this thread :clap:

I was wondering a couple things. First, why isn't this thread stickied? Second, what type of pipe are you guys using for the exhaust? Steel plumbing pipe? Also, is there any way to do a pipe mod without welding, like maybe with soldering?
 
I love this thread :clap:

I was wondering a couple things. First, why isn't this thread stickied? Second, what type of pipe are you guys using for the exhaust? Steel plumbing pipe? Also, is there any way to do a pipe mod without welding, like maybe with soldering?

Joe,

I have made many modified mufflers. Without doubt the best material to use is stainless steel pipe. It will never rust and can either be painted or polished.

You can braize the pipe onto the muffler. Of course I prefer to weld using a mig welder.
POR 15 makes some High temp epoxy. But I have never tested this, nor would I ever want it on my saw.

If you have trouble locating sources of material to build your own muffler, send me a PM and I will help you.

With Great Esteem,
Scott.
 
Joe,

Without doubt the best material to use is stainless steel pipe. It will never rust and can either be painted or polished.

Scott,

For most do-it-yourselfers, I would say stainless is not the best material to use as it is more expensive and harder to obtain than most other common materials. Worried about rust...stock mufflers are around 20ga. stamped sheetmetal...it will fall apart long before any kind of carbon tube/pipe will rust out. Also, you need to (should) weld carbon and stainless together with proper filler metal to prevent cracking...no big deal if you have a bunch of know-how and proper equipment...lots of shade-tree mechanics don't have access to such, and if they do, can't justify the expense of buying special wire/welding rod for a $2 muffler mod.

My advice to all the guys that want to mod their own mufflers is use anything you can scrounge. EMT (electrical conduit) works great and chances are you have some or can get your hands on some for free, or next to nothing. It is galvanized, so if you weld it, grind/sand off the galvanized, or weld in a well ventilated space - basically, just don't huff the fumes. Scraps of tube or pipe from pretty much anything - old hydraulic jack handle, etc. - will work wonderful. And, as Andy (Lakeside) said, you can braze with a $40 MAPP gas Bernz-o-matic torch and a flux covered brazing rod from the welding supply shop, TSC, Farm & Fleet, etc.

Don't forget the drill and chain file method works just fine if you will be cutting in an area which does not require spark arrestors.

Good luck, and keep it cheap!

Josh
 
I'm too cheap to source thin wall pipe (for my 361 style mods) so I just turn down/bore black iron gas pipe! Coat of high temp paint and it will outlast the muffler material for sure.


EMT is great (watch out for the zinc boiling off when wleding/brazing - don't breathe it).

yes, stainless is overkill, but if you have scrap...


Oh yes... watch out for the stainless mufflers appearing on Stihl pro saws next year... shut up Andy
 
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Theres no such thing as a new diamond.

Josh, I understand what you are saying, but you can buy stainless steel cheaper in a scrap yard than you can buy black pipe in the hardware store. You can buy stainless at $1.00 a pound. Sure you can buy the cheap steel there too at .10 cents a pound, but why not use stainless?

Theres no such thing as a new diamond.

By this I mean that two dollars will buy you enough material to build the highest quality stainless steel piped muffler. Stainless steel will never deteriorate, just like diamonds.

Yes, you can shop at Mc master to buy all new materials...(thats crazy!)
but even if you pay $2.00 a pound in a scrap yard you will have enough material to do all your saws.

And stainless steel is steel. Although I have not tried to braize it, I would see no reason you couldnt do it. If you know anyone with a welder, you know someone who can weld the pipe in. Its not magic. Use the smallest wire avail. and keep the hole tight and clean. Go slow on the thinner pipe. Use thicker walled pipe if you can get it. On the thicker walled stuff, weld on the pipe, and move the weld puddle into the muffler material with quick motions and stop. Let it cool and repeat. Its very easy to burn through the muffler and make big holes. Its also very easy to avoid doing that.

I live in an area with huge medical research facilitys, food preparation plants, and NASA. We even have a place that is building parts for secret satellite laser weaponry. There is never any shortage of stainless steel tubing.

Do not be afraid of using stainless, its just steel with a little nickle added. And if you really can not find the material to build a nice one, shoot me a pm.
 
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