Log Splitter Recommendation

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My Step-Sons and I went together and bought the 37 ton Northern this spring. I have nothing really bad to say about it. I split about 20 cord with it this year so far. I sure like that easy starting, fuel efficient, Honda motor. And it will split everything I put in it. If the wood doesn't spit, it just shears it off. The cycle time is fast. There is nothing worse than a slow splitter in my book except one that just won't do the job on tough oak wood.

After using it all summer here are the glitches. The rear foot or stabilizer is to far forward for really large blocks. This is due to the vertical splitting feature. I will fabricate another adjustable and removable stabilizer at the very rear. This is only a problem with very large blocks which should be done vertical anyway. But I hate working on my knees. And there is no hydraulic oil filter. Beats me why not. There should be I think.

I owned one splitter with a fixed wedge. Never again. With tough or frozen blocks, the wood tends to shoot out at 200 miles per hour when it finally splits. This is dangerous and a pain in the you know what. A fixed plate and traveling wedge is much better and much safer in my opinion.

Another thing I really like about the Northern is the height. At my age, bending over to run a splitter is not good. The Northern sits at a comfortable height for me to work. I do most of my splitting alone. The Northern seems to make that easier than other splitters I have used.

Disclaimer: I have not used all the splitters made in the world, so there may be one even better than the Northern. :popcorn:
 
I'll try to keep this short. Just my 2, stay away from Cubcadet, Northern. and anything MTD, THEIR JUNK!! I know from expierence I've owned both. No doubt American, Timberwolf and Iron Oak are the topend and are great splitters but, you'll spend $2000.00 and up for them. I ( in my opinion) Wanted the best of both worlds I went with a 28 ton SPEECO ($1500.00 incl tax) Commercially built but without the high price. Don't take my word for it go compare one and the others and then makeup your mind. They can also come in different variations 28 t/w Honda engine or B/S engine, same thing with 22 Ton , 35 ton. Hope this helps

+1. MTD has ruined too many good names for me to consider anything they sell, under whatever name. Even if they still have the occasional product that is decent (which is doubtful), I wouldn't buy from them for what they have done to good companies.

As for Iron Oak, having seen several close up, I'd say it's a very good unit - I'd be happy to own one. But I can't see that it's built that much better than a Speeco/Huskee. Yet it costs a BUNCH more. Better engine, yes, but you can get the Honda on the Speeco, and still save a bundle over the I&O.

I have a monster maul, a "junior" monster, a hammer, and some wedges from I&O, and found them very good people to deal with. The small hammer I bought was junk, though. Head fell off in less than one season of hand splitting. I was using it to set wedges in my bigger stuff. The weld broke. The other stuff from them has been used hard and is very good.


I'm one of those who had a bent toe plate, and I'm quite happy with how Speeco/TSC handled the matter. Given what I was splitting, I'm not sure an I&O would have fared any better. Those who say their 22 ton Whatever has never seen wood it couldn't split, just haven't been splitting tough wood! :dizzy:

I've only seen pictures of the American (on this site and their website), and I can't see anything that looks to me like it's worth the extra money over the comparable sized Speeco. I'm sure it's a fine unit, but in terms of quality for cash, I just don't see the extra value there. (American owners will now rise up in fury to avenge my blasphemy. Oh well.)

Unless you are doing production work, I don't think you can beat the value of the Speeco. The built in log cradle works very well, much better than balancing a round on a flat beam! You don't need to hold it in place.

And for big rounds, I'm still waiting for someone to explain to me how it's less work to get the round on the log lift, as opposed to getting it on the toe plate for vertical splitting. Either way, you have to muscle it onto something at ground level. I've asked that as an honest question, and all I got was answers that make no sense to me, and a lot of anger that I would dare ask the question. Again, oh well.


If I were buying a new splitter today, I'd pick the Speeco again, with I&O as my second choice. Not because the Speeco is BETTER (though I think the built in log cradle is a better design), but because it's better value for the money. I think it's as good, or almost as good as the I&O, but for a lot fewer bucks. BTW, when I was shopping, I had my heart set on the I&O, but for $$ reasons, 'settled' for the Speeco. Now I have no regrets.

If you won't feel like you got a good machine unless you spent the top dollar, I'd say you'd better get the Timberwolf, I&O, or American.
 
My Step-Sons and I went together and bought the 37 ton Northern this spring. I have nothing really bad to say about it. I split about 20 cord with it this year so far. I sure like that easy starting, fuel efficient, Honda motor. And it will split everything I put in it. If the wood doesn't spit, it just shears it off. The cycle time is fast. There is nothing worse than a slow splitter in my book except one that just won't do the job on tough oak wood.

After using it all summer here are the glitches. The rear foot or stabilizer is to far forward for really large blocks. This is due to the vertical splitting feature. I will fabricate another adjustable and removable stabilizer at the very rear. This is only a problem with very large blocks which should be done vertical anyway. But I hate working on my knees. And there is no hydraulic oil filter. Beats me why not. There should be I think.

I owned one splitter with a fixed wedge. Never again. With tough or frozen blocks, the wood tends to shoot out at 200 miles per hour when it finally splits. This is dangerous and a pain in the you know what. A fixed plate and traveling wedge is much better and much safer in my opinion.

Another thing I really like about the Northern is the height. At my age, bending over to run a splitter is not good. The Northern sits at a comfortable height for me to work. I do most of my splitting alone. The Northern seems to make that easier than other splitters I have used.

Disclaimer: I have not used all the splitters made in the world, so there may be one even better than the Northern. :popcorn:

Too bad they dont include the filter this year, previous years the filter was included. Plus the price jumped up from last year.
 
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And for big rounds, I'm still waiting for someone to explain to me how it's less work to get the round on the log lift, as opposed to getting it on the toe plate for vertical splitting. Either way, you have to muscle it onto something at ground level. I've asked that as an honest question, and all I got was answers that make no sense to me, and a lot of anger that I would dare ask the question. Again, oh well.
The simplest answer I can give is that many years ago when the wheel was discovered they found that a round object moves easier than a flat object.
With the log lift the wood is rolled on. With a vertical splitter the wood has to be slide onto the plate.
My splitter is a vertical with ram mounted wedge but it is at comfortable work height with a log lift. I find it much easier to load the log lift than to slide the big rounds into position under the wedge.
 
One thing I like about my low profile 'American' splitter is that the bar is only a foot of the ground so we could easily roll up the huge boundary tree rounds over a ramp of splitter trash and splits.

I don't think I could be happy with those newer and higher splitters cause 80% of the time I'm splitting sitting down...its so easy it's almost like I'm taking a break.
 
One thing I like about my low profile 'American' splitter is that the bar is only a foot of the ground so we could easily roll up the huge boundary tree rounds over a ramp of splitter trash and splits.

I don't think I could be happy with those newer and higher splitters cause 80% of the time I'm splitting sitting down...its so easy it's almost like I'm taking a break.
I'd hate to get up every time i need a new log. I would be wore out in no time!
 
how does the Troy Built 27 ton compare to some of the higher end ones , looks nicely put together , has a solid foot plate and is less than $1500.00
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=116418-270-24BF572B711&lpage=none
043033537549.jpg


160 cc Honda OHV engine
27 Ton Ram Force
Hydraulic Fluid Included
Coil wrapped hoses for added protection



Splitting Tonnage (Tons): 27.0
Engine Torque (Feet/lbs.): 0.0
Engine Displacement (Cu. Centimeters): 160
Engine Brand: Honda
Cycle Time (Seconds): 15
Capacity (Length of Log) (Inches): 25
Starter Type: Manual
Warranty: 2 year limited
Cutting Wedge (Inches): 4.0
Light Kit: No
Hydraulic Fluid Included: Yes
UL Safety Listing: No
CSA Safety Listing: No
ETL Safety Listing: No
Color / Finish: red/black
Package Contents: gas log splitter
Fuel Type: Gasoline
Fenders: Yes
 
Splitter

Once again. Cub Cadet, MTD, Lawnboy, Troybuilt, Yardman ,Yardmachines, Bolens ALL JUNK
 
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Once again. Cub Cadet, MTD, Lawnboy, Troybuilt, Yardman ,Yardmachines, Bolens ALL JUNK

Yep. All the same company, all junk. Some of those used to be good names before MTD bought them.

Not anymore!

BTW, there's an MTD down at my favorite hardware store that's a rental unit. 4" cylinder, so probably rated at 27 tons, maybe? Anyway, the toe plate is bent pretty badly, more than mine was. Yes, it's a solid plate, but not nearly as thick as a good machine would have. I'd say it's about half the thickness of the plate on the I&O they've got next to it.

And that shroud around the wedge looks downright flimsy - I'm pretty sure it will get beat to death quickly when you get a piece stuck, which will happen, unless you are splitting nothing but straight grained, easy stuff. There isn't one on the rental unit. Probably had to take it off and throw it away.
 
The simplest answer I can give is that many years ago when the wheel was discovered they found that a round object moves easier than a flat object.


Y'know, I've noticed that. ;) I got a good lesson on it two years ago when I stood on a round (about 14") to reach up and mark another round for cutting. Oddly enough, that round.... rolled. Cost me some serious pain and a few trips to the podiatrist! :(

With the log lift the wood is rolled on. With a vertical splitter the wood has to be slide onto the plate.
My splitter is a vertical with ram mounted wedge but it is at comfortable work height with a log lift. I find it much easier to load the log lift than to slide the big rounds into position under the wedge.

Thank you, triptester. That makes sense. I appreciate you giving an honest answer instead of the defensive diatribes I've gotten in the past. (I don't recall from whom.) I'm always interested in finding the easiest way to get a job done, and I'm looking at this from the standpoint of the mechanics involved, and trying to understand which way works better. I'm not trying to pick a fight with anybody over it, or prove 'my' way is right. I'm just trying to understand! If horizontal splitting of 40" oak rounds is really easier, I'll buy a log lift! I just don't see it yet.

What about when the round has been split once? I have some big stuff, and it just doesn't roll well when halved or quartered!

BTW, I don't slide my rounds, I flop them. They get moved with a monster hand truck or rolled up to the splitter, then sometimes "walked" a bit into final position, and flopped onto the toe plate. Yes, it's probably more work than rolling a round onto a log lift, I can see that. However, then you have these halved or quartered rounds to deal with, and rolling ain't happening!

Also, few of my rounds split completely with the first pass. So you've got it up there, and it's partially split. Now what?

And if it DOES split completely, you've got two big pieces of wood up there in the air. Where does it fall? And whose toe is waiting for it? How do you rotate it for the next split?


BTW, for small stuff, say, up to 18 or 20 inches or so, I find horizontal quicker and easier. If I have a bunch of that stuff, I do it horizontally, and that built in log cradle on the Speeco is mighty nice. My only question is with big stuff.
 
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how does the Troy Built 27 ton compare to some of the higher end ones , looks nicely put together , has a solid foot plate and is less than $1500.00
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=116418-270-24BF572B711&lpage=none
043033537549.jpg


160 cc Honda OHV engine
27 Ton Ram Force
Hydraulic Fluid Included
Coil wrapped hoses for added protection



Splitting Tonnage (Tons): 27.0
Engine Torque (Feet/lbs.): 0.0
Engine Displacement (Cu. Centimeters): 160
Engine Brand: Honda
Cycle Time (Seconds): 15
Capacity (Length of Log) (Inches): 25
Starter Type: Manual
Warranty: 2 year limited
Cutting Wedge (Inches): 4.0
Light Kit: No
Hydraulic Fluid Included: Yes
UL Safety Listing: No
CSA Safety Listing: No
ETL Safety Listing: No
Color / Finish: red/black
Package Contents: gas log splitter
Fuel Type: Gasoline
Fenders: Yes


Looks like I'd have a worse gripe with this one than mine!

Once in horizontal mode, it looks like the valve would be on the opposite side of the axle than the handling side! Quite a dangerous reach if by yourself!

Even the highest quality machine can become a pile of junk if it isn't laid out right!
Ergonomics is everyhting (almost).

As far as the vertical vs horizontal debate. If you commonly get uniform-sized rounds that are easily handled, horizontal rules, especially if at a good working height where no bending is needed, and wood can be rolled directly onto the splitter from truck tailgate.

If you're like me and get all the goofy stuff, leftovers others don't want, big rounds and big crotch pieces, and all different sizes in one load, vertical rules. Especially if you, as you unload it from the truck, stack it into a half circle behind where you are sitting (not on your knees!) on a milk crate or round or stool. And again, valve position is critical to comfort.
 
how does the Troy Built 27 ton compare to some of the higher end ones , looks nicely put together , has a solid foot plate and is less than $1500.00
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=116418-270-24BF572B711&lpage=none
043033537549.jpg


160 cc Honda OHV engine
27 Ton Ram Force
Hydraulic Fluid Included
Coil wrapped hoses for added protection



Splitting Tonnage (Tons): 27.0
Engine Torque (Feet/lbs.): 0.0
Engine Displacement (Cu. Centimeters): 160
Engine Brand: Honda
Cycle Time (Seconds): 15
Capacity (Length of Log) (Inches): 25
Starter Type: Manual
Warranty: 2 year limited
Cutting Wedge (Inches): 4.0
Light Kit: No
Hydraulic Fluid Included: Yes
UL Safety Listing: No
CSA Safety Listing: No
ETL Safety Listing: No
Color / Finish: red/black
Package Contents: gas log splitter
Fuel Type: Gasoline
Fenders: Yes

To be honest it looks chintzy at best. Homeowner spliting small wood OK but I would not buy it.
 
my observatons, from picture and using a rental that may have been similar:
-no pump info given. if it was two stage, I think they would have noted that. If it is not, I wouldn't touch it.
-this is a vertical crank engine, the equivalent horizontal engine gc160 is labeled "5.0" but Is NOT 5 hp. Honda website rated 4.6 hp and will pull an 11 or 13 gpm two stage to only about 2000 to 2200 psi. the gc190 is labeled 6.0 but is only 5.2 hp I think. It will pull the 11 or 13 barnes to over 2800 psi.
the reason all this is fresh is I just went through all of it today. I bought a GC160 on CL tonight for under $100, knowing it is too small for my final build, but I needed a space filler to mock up a small hydr machine. The engine are the same dimension and I can proto with the 160, find a 190 when I can, and still get my $100 back out of the 160 for go karts in the spring.
anyway, my guess is that it is a smaller single stage pump that could be slower than molasses. If it is a barnes 11 or 13, it won't have enough pressure/force before the engine is overloaded.
-The cast wedge is steep angle, will take more power. I'd want a narrower angles wedge, with steep wings further back. Wedge design IMO is poor. wedge and cylinder are the key parts for efficient splitting.
-the cast wedges are rough, need to be ground and polished. too much friction. I used a rental that way.
-The valve on one side limits operation, say if the trailer is parked differently and you want to split from the other side, or the wood pile gets bigger on one side.
-when in the horizontal position (where I split mostly) the working area is too close to axle and wheels. May have to lean ever so slightly, back aches, and tripping hazards.
-side log trays are wimpy.
-stuck log ejector is a pinch point, and I'd cut if off. If a log gets stuck, jsut put a 12 inch long piece of 2 or 3 inch diameter green branch between log and cylinder end and retract the cylinder. pops it right off, and avoids possible pinch points.


If it is a super deal maybe, but if not a two stage pump, I wouldn't touch it.

MTD has become the mall products: stamped, made to price points, decent value, but not much quality or design. you may be quite happy with their products compared to the old machine or manual way of tilliing/mowing/splitting/hauling, but if you use anything even a bit more money, quickly realize they are not precision tools. slugs, reliable for a short time, but slugs. They have made products less expensive, but also 'cheaper' and driven some good brand names into the ground. Not for me. I am biased to get a better quality product, used if need be, for the same money.

I really like the old saying 'the poor man can only afford good quality'.


k
 
Here is a pic of my splitter I built it to be as operator friendly as possible. It has a 2 x 5 foot table and log lift. All wood stays on the table until splitting and resplitting is complete.
 
Splitter

On a side note it's a DAMN SHAME, The Same happened to Homelite, McCulloch,and other companies. They get boughtout or taken over by big or foreign corporations who no NOTHING about the product and CHEAPEN the same because of their bottomline. Pisses me off. Everything MADE IN CHINA. Sorry Guys I'll get off of my soap box now.
 
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well i know troy build makes a crappy ass snow blower. my wife bought me one a few years ago for a christmas present. it snowed the next day i believe maybe half a foot. now i have a very small drive way and before i even finished i lost all but one forward gear. i was pretty mad to say the least. lowes ended up taking it back and they were like do you want to exchange it for another one?? what do you think yeah gimme another piece of crap maybe i can finish the driveway once before it dies. took my money and i still shovel the driveway. actually i got qa old crapsman lawn tractor with a plow on it now not sure if it will work but ill try it anyway.
 
I bought the 27 ton troy built a couple of months ago for $1399.00 and haven't had any problems with it (knock on wood). It does have a 2 stage pump and I have split large logs with it. When I looked into buying it, yeah I heard of a few not so good opinions but what I had found was that the majority of those who owned them were happy with the splitter (all were people who used it for home use only). Now granted if you are looking to split 15, 20, or more cords of wood a year, look elsewhere for a splitter. Also, after looking at the design it wouldn't be hard to improve on the design by moving things around or reinforce something here or there if needed. But for me, I am happy with it. :chainsaw:
 
I have a Super Split, I couldn't be happier with it. It has a nice production table on it and everything is at the perfect height for working effortlessly. It will run all day on a tank of gas, is really quiet, and can split most logs with the engine running at about 1/2 throttle. It works great for <20" rounds, which account for about 90+% for my work. For anything it may struggle with (very, very rare so far), I just fire up one of the big saws and cut them into smaller pieces, which I can actually lift and it will split. Sure there are more powerful splitters on the market, but there are very few that will keep up with a SS.

My neighbor, who has a giant home made splitter with a 4 cylinder engine on it, came over when I first got the SS. He was a little interested in the design, but made a comment that his could split mine in half. I said maybe so, but mine will split about 5 times faster. He said "Yeah, what are you going to do when you get some 30+" rounds?" I smilled and said I wont even have to move them, as I pointed toward where the 3120, PM1000, 880, 064, 7900, etc were sitting. :D
 
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