Logging chainsaw?

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372 is a light logging saw. They use them here for clear cutting pine stands. Nothing more than 16”. It could handle some 24” stuff but a pro would not have se it for that. I believe you could though
Please, a light logging saw, it will cut a lot more than 16” pine. I use a jonsered 2171 for cutting hardwood up to 24” no problem.
 
From left to right all roughly the same chassis size
Husky 562w will pull a 28 and will oil one no problem
Husky 555 will pull a 28 but wouldn't recommend it myself with the small studs
Stihl 260 been nothing but a problem child I wouldn't recommend one to a enemy.

If you can afford one the 562 really has impressed me for power to weight and love having wrap handles for falling myself. The last picture is of a decent sized red cedar that had to have the face split and slightly blocked to reach with a 32 they're a very capable saw, a lot has to do with chain set up ditch any sort of round chain and go square chisel it's faster as well as smoother.
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Good landing saws like the 555 in my book they've be better with bigger mounting studs.

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What would larger mounting studs have anything to do with the saws ability to cut and make it "better"?
 
Longer bars say 28 or 32 you're more likely to snap the studs off.

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I get that, but your out classing the saw by putting a longer bar on it in the first place. Makes no sense to me why anyone would want a 32" bar on a 60cc or less saw in the first place. Can it be done yes, is it practicle no. The larger studs are in larger power heads for a reason and vise versa.
 
I get that, but your out classing the saw by putting a longer bar on it in the first place. Makes no sense to me why anyone would want a 32" bar on a 60cc or less saw in the first place. Can it be done yes, is it practicle no. The larger studs are in larger power heads for a reason and vise versa.
Because the size of timber I cut it'll barely reach with a 32", I have bigger saws and longer bars trust me but for down in a deep nasty hole or up on a spring board I'd take that any day. As to practical it's very practical out here on the west coast a 32" is common to still see a faller carry you can reach a 5'+ tree with that length or heck it may save you from taking a tumble on steep ground bucking. Have you had the enjoy of packing a set of jacks out with a 5 foot bar on steep ground, this is where you want a second saw like this for starting cuts, cutting jack seats, limbing, and bucking. How about cutting your own spring board or boards to get up out of a hole or a double or up on an old growth stump just to cut a tree? Set ups like this are practical for areas where weight can pay you in the long run when you're not tried at the end of the day.

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Because the size of timber I cut it'll barely reach with a 32", I have bigger saws and longer bars trust me but for down in a deep nasty hole or up on a spring board I'd take that any day. As to practical it's very practical out here on the west coast a 32" is common to still see a faller carry you can reach a 5'+ tree with that length or heck it may save you from taking a tumble on steep ground bucking. Have you had the enjoy of packing a set of jacks out with a 5 foot bar on steep ground, this is where you want a second saw like this for starting cuts, cutting jack seats, limbing, and bucking. How about cutting your own spring board or boards to get up out of a hole or a double or up on an old growth stump just to cut a tree? Set ups like this are practical for areas where weight can pay you in the long run when you're not tried at the end of the day.

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Pixels,

Cause some of us just want to see that kind of work.
 
Because the size of timber I cut it'll barely reach with a 32", I have bigger saws and longer bars trust me but for down in a deep nasty hole or up on a spring board I'd take that any day. As to practical it's very practical out here on the west coast a 32" is common to still see a faller carry you can reach a 5'+ tree with that length or heck it may save you from taking a tumble on steep ground bucking. Have you had the enjoy of packing a set of jacks out with a 5 foot bar on steep ground, this is where you want a second saw like this for starting cuts, cutting jack seats, limbing, and bucking. How about cutting your own spring board or boards to get up out of a hole or a double or up on an old growth stump just to cut a tree? Set ups like this are practical for areas where weight can pay you in the long run when you're not tried at the end of the day.

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Holy hell im dizzy!! I get it, your experienced in cutting timber and confronting certain situations where you need to get creative. My point was long bars on small mount saws and vise versa.
 
I can get a 372 xp low profile here locally for 550$. Good deal or? And how would it compare to a 440 or 460 stihl?

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For that price, I'd grab it. The 372 is a great saw. Start making money and go bigger later.

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He is in NC not OR it’s totally different woods and trees!!! And I bet he won’t have trouble getting saw to tree

I’d go with 562xp if you are cutting with a 20-24” and a 390xp if running a 28”+ bar for hard wood

John
Here's some hardwood that was done with that 562 with a 32 a lot of it comes down to chain if I went back to a round style chain then a 24 or 28 would be all she wrote, but with square chisel in semi skip you can pull a longer bar.
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Here's some hardwood that was done with that 562 with a 32 a lot of it comes down to chain if I went back to a round style chain then a 24 or 28 would be all she wrote, but with square chisel in semi skip you can pull a longer bar.
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Trying to explain chain to someone on east coast is like talking to a brick wall ,they don't get it and wont listen because all their shops carry is .050 in round grind. So they think that's all there is. Next they will say the wrap handle gets in the way cutting stumps.
 

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