Well , i got the used saw that i bought for the build with a 79CC kit....couple of newbie questions.....Took the screw out of the chain brake on both sides, thinking it would be easier to work on...heard the coil spring release a little, and put the links between the spring and the housing in an upward arch....do i need to compress the spring to get the handle back on? Also, watched a video on utube about removing the clutch....left hands treads, and i tapped pretty seriously with a punch in the right direction (CW) with rope in the sparkplug hole, but nothing...not wanting to mess it up i stopped, and here i am...i need to remove the clutch, as the oiler isn't working.....is it possible to blow air through the oiler line, or because of the pump, does that stop it unless it is being driven by the clutch drum? Sorry for the long post, but don't want to tear it up , by trying to fix it! Thanks for any help...rsbhunter
Makita 6401 buildup
- Thread starter rsbhunter
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brake handle
No replies on the linkage and spring, is there a repair manual that tells how to R & R the brake assy? If i need to take it all apart and then put it back together, no problem....Thanks,rsbhunter
No replies on the linkage and spring, is there a repair manual that tells how to R & R the brake assy? If i need to take it all apart and then put it back together, no problem....Thanks,rsbhunter
I asked the same question earlier this year and never got an answer. I can't remember the exact details, but I do remember securing the saw to my wooden bench with wood screws. Once I was able to compress the spring with a screwdriver things finally went back together. A helping hand would be nice but not mandatory.
I just went out and checked you might be able to lay the saw on the bench and the handle will secure it. My saw was stripped down when I was working on it.
If you have any crummy spare sockets, use a grinder to make it fit the inner portion of the clutch. I prefer to use an impact wrench to remove clutches, start with lower air pressue and work your way up.
I just went out and checked you might be able to lay the saw on the bench and the handle will secure it. My saw was stripped down when I was working on it.
If you have any crummy spare sockets, use a grinder to make it fit the inner portion of the clutch. I prefer to use an impact wrench to remove clutches, start with lower air pressue and work your way up.
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Clutch brake spring and linkage
Thanks, i did make a tool out of a 3/4" 6pt socket...worked well...now i just have to get the clutch brake handle back od and wait for the oiler parts from edge&engine...cyl and piston (79cc) came in yesterday, so that will probably go in today, paint the muffler with high temp, and i'll be on my way to having a larger cc saw!!!!!! Thanks for the help....rsbhunter
Thanks, i did make a tool out of a 3/4" 6pt socket...worked well...now i just have to get the clutch brake handle back od and wait for the oiler parts from edge&engine...cyl and piston (79cc) came in yesterday, so that will probably go in today, paint the muffler with high temp, and i'll be on my way to having a larger cc saw!!!!!! Thanks for the help....rsbhunter
steve316
ArboristSite Operative
brake
there is no eazy way that I know of to install the brake spring. Once you get the spring compressed and hooked back to the handel your clutch band fits in little knoches in the case. Your drum won't fit right and rotate freely if the band is not in these knockes. For some reason it took me along time to see this problem with the band. good luck those brakes,they are a pain in the back side.Steve
there is no eazy way that I know of to install the brake spring. Once you get the spring compressed and hooked back to the handel your clutch band fits in little knoches in the case. Your drum won't fit right and rotate freely if the band is not in these knockes. For some reason it took me along time to see this problem with the band. good luck those brakes,they are a pain in the back side.Steve
never taken my brake apart so can't help there but I would suggest using the POR15 High temp paint. it adheres better and doesn't burn off. Also make sure to check your squish (possibly don't need a paper/metal gasket). I'd also suggest taking a look at your intake and exhaust and file/grind smooth any casting marks... The OEM 79cc kits should be pretty free of casting buggers but you never know...
Have fun with that saw!
79cc kit
Checked the cyl...looks good, i'll double check though.....this might be the dumbest question yet, but on the cyl gasket (metal one) does the black side with the raised lip go cyl side, or the printed side? I'm so close now that i don't want to do anything stupid!!!!I'm pretty sure it does , but???? Thanks again for all the help...rsbhunter
Checked the cyl...looks good, i'll double check though.....this might be the dumbest question yet, but on the cyl gasket (metal one) does the black side with the raised lip go cyl side, or the printed side? I'm so close now that i don't want to do anything stupid!!!!I'm pretty sure it does , but???? Thanks again for all the help...rsbhunter
I put it on the same way the one on the 64cc jug was. Wait I even reused the gasket.
Logger4Life
ArboristSite Operative
you have to push the spring back far enough to flip the linkage the other way . and yes the oiler is driven by the clutch drum . On the brake linkage you can also pull out one of the pins that hold the linkage together then push the spring back and replace the pin but makes it goes all the way back in. Yeah I made that mistake twice before I realized that the engine can be torn down with the brake handle left attached on the clutch side. if you want rid of it let me know I have been looking for a 6401. Jay
chain brake
Thanks, this is really a fun project...i cant complain , i got the saw for $135.00 shipped to my door...and it ran great!!!! As i bought this to do the 79CC kit, i didn't have to much to lose, but i expect it to work out great...going to rebuild the oil pump, replace all the oil lines , just to head off possible problems...oiler didn't work when i got it....yeah, if i ever do this again, i will NOT touch the chain brake!!!!!!!!!!!! LOL, not a biggie, but it had my pea brain stumped til you guys helped out ...Thanks, rsbhunter
Thanks, this is really a fun project...i cant complain , i got the saw for $135.00 shipped to my door...and it ran great!!!! As i bought this to do the 79CC kit, i didn't have to much to lose, but i expect it to work out great...going to rebuild the oil pump, replace all the oil lines , just to head off possible problems...oiler didn't work when i got it....yeah, if i ever do this again, i will NOT touch the chain brake!!!!!!!!!!!! LOL, not a biggie, but it had my pea brain stumped til you guys helped out ...Thanks, rsbhunter
wait... I do remember doing one of these... LOL
Do you have a welder? I actually made a spring compressor tool when I did mine. you can strong arm it but it's a PITA!
Think about the spring compressors you use for coil over struts/shocks... then make a mini version...
I made my tool out of a "C-clamp" and welded several small metal strips/arms to it. I also ground a small "lull/valley" in the extention arms for the spring to rest into on either end as I tightened the clamp. You can do the same thing with a 6-8in long bolt, couple nuts, and small strips of metal for the arms. Probably took me 30mins to weld, grind, and fashion my mini spring compressor but I don't have to worry about ever having the problem again... Plus if you engineer the tool right you can use it in reverse to stretch a spring a little if you need to in the future. I have also used mine for a case splitter in certain situations too! LOL... I like to redneck engineer my own tools!
Do you have a welder? I actually made a spring compressor tool when I did mine. you can strong arm it but it's a PITA!
Think about the spring compressors you use for coil over struts/shocks... then make a mini version...
I made my tool out of a "C-clamp" and welded several small metal strips/arms to it. I also ground a small "lull/valley" in the extention arms for the spring to rest into on either end as I tightened the clamp. You can do the same thing with a 6-8in long bolt, couple nuts, and small strips of metal for the arms. Probably took me 30mins to weld, grind, and fashion my mini spring compressor but I don't have to worry about ever having the problem again... Plus if you engineer the tool right you can use it in reverse to stretch a spring a little if you need to in the future. I have also used mine for a case splitter in certain situations too! LOL... I like to redneck engineer my own tools!
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almost there....
couple pics of partial....runs great...does the idle vibration increase because of the bigger CC's ? Thought about making a tool for the spring, wasn't as good of a design as what your's sounds like, so i might have to copy your style....definitely a stout spring!!!
Again, thanks for all the help from everyone....rsbhunter
couple pics of partial....runs great...does the idle vibration increase because of the bigger CC's ? Thought about making a tool for the spring, wasn't as good of a design as what your's sounds like, so i might have to copy your style....definitely a stout spring!!!
couple pics of partial....runs great...does the idle vibration increase because of the bigger CC's ? Thought about making a tool for the spring, wasn't as good of a design as what your's sounds like, so i might have to copy your style....definitely a stout spring!!!
Again, thanks for all the help from everyone....rsbhunter
My bbk and the 79cc kits that I have run have been the same vibe as the 64cc P&C. What size/type bar are you going to sport?
bar size
probably either 20" or 24"....built this for milling some beams....according to the guys on the milling posts, take a bigger CC so that you don't kill the saw early......It was a real eye opener.......glad i got to do it...seems to be a little hard to start after sitting for 10-15 mins, might need to adjust carb, or might need a rebuild...but i think this might have started life as a HD rental..has 5 digit # engraved in the handle...rsbhunter
probably either 20" or 24"....built this for milling some beams....according to the guys on the milling posts, take a bigger CC so that you don't kill the saw early......It was a real eye opener.......glad i got to do it...seems to be a little hard to start after sitting for 10-15 mins, might need to adjust carb, or might need a rebuild...but i think this might have started life as a HD rental..has 5 digit # engraved in the handle...rsbhunter
Grande Dog
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Howdy,
This manual should help with repairs.
Regards
Gregg
This manual should help with repairs.
Regards
Gregg
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