McCulloch Chain Saws

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Well, Ya ever have a saw that just got the best of you.
Here it is. It was a very nice 7-10 i just got off the bay
and ran but need a simple fuel system tune up. So i took
the carb off, Rebuilt it and went to put it back together
and all i can say is these saws are a total piece of ****.
Who ever designed these things should be shot. Gasket
spacer then another gasket. throttle and choke rods with
rubber bands, WTF, Then you hook the throttle rod to the
carb and it comes off the trigger. Six times and it hit the floor.
I saw the exploded front tank cover, then i fired the carb out
in the woods. I wasn't done yet. I wanted this saw done. I
grabbed the sledge o matic and went to town. It won't run again.
This morning after i had cooled off i went and found the carb.
I can at least use that again as well as the nice filter cover.


Lee


Temper temper Lee at least you have found a match to those Mini Mac's .......................

McBob
 
Lee, sorry about the saw. As I said before when it comes to working on them the ten series appears to have been designed with manufacturing in mind where the large frame saws seemed to have been designed with the user in mind. Thankfully I started working on the ten series first. I know how you feel however. Tonight if I could have picked my little Deere up and thrown it I would have. Can't even steer the thing if the motor is off. Can't start the thing for all the safety switches. Won't roll start because the brakes stick and the tranny is so stiff. I almost pulled it into a tree (did I say you can't steer it if it isn't running?) but the tree was too nice to scar otherwise I probably would have floored the truck and smashed the tractor good - I haven't been this mad in a long long time. I'm reasonable calm now but we will see in the morning when I go through the drill of trying to crank it alone again. Hang in there. Ron
 
Model 250 problem.

Was dumping fuel out of eight or ten saws this morning when I came to my 250. Instead of the expected two or three cups of fuel it poured out bar oil.:msp_w00t:

W.T.H.!!!!!!

I am not perfect but, I'm sure I didn't put bar oil in the wrong tank. Lids are sooooooooo much different to begin with.

So, how did it get in there. The oil tank is higher in elevation so maybe a gasket leaks?

Maybe explains why I have to pump the oiler a lot to get oil to the bar.

Off to study the IPL.

Carl.

This LinkBucks **** really, really sucks.
 
Was dumping fuel out of eight or ten saws this morning when I came to my 250. Instead of the expected two or three cups of fuel it poured out bar oil.:msp_w00t:

W.T.H.!!!!!!

I am not perfect but, I'm sure I didn't put bar oil in the wrong tank. Lids are sooooooooo much different to begin with.

So, how did it get in there. The oil tank is higher in elevation so maybe a gasket leaks?

Maybe explains why I have to pump the oiler a lot to get oil to the bar.

Off to study the IPL.

Carl.

This LinkBucks **** really, really sucks.

If your 250 is one of the later ones with the auto oil pump blockoff plate in the tank, then the gasket under that plate may be leaking.
 
Need some help on what model this saw is. It came from the scrap yard. It has spark and does run on prime. I need to get a new kit for the HL carb. Also need help with the fuel line. There is a piece of foam inside the tank. The gear drive also needs service. The oil is very thick inside the tank.
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Didn't the super 55 have a flat muffler. If you need a carb kit mower parts 4 less has the full kits under $15. Best suggestion on the chain drive drain all the oil and do a kerosene soak to get all the residual out. And get a bottle of mean green that stuff will clean anything.
 
I had two 640's, neither looked like that. The 640 is a 440 with a gear drive. I never had a 55 but it's the same as a 44 but has the gear drive unit. That looks a lot like a 44/55 power head to me. One of the McExperts will be along soon and let us know. Here is a pic if my 640.

5ysu3aqu.jpg
 
joey been going through ipl's believe you are right about the super 55. If it is it could be the big 100+cc mcculloch. Either way its between 80cc to 100+cc. Good luck getting it running if you do you will have a monster saw. Back in the day there wasn't much that slowed these down. Upwards of a 42 inch bar. Only issue is parts availability. Carb parts are still around it's the hard parts.
 
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I had two 640's, neither looked like that. The 640 is a 440 with a gear drive. I never had a 55 but it's the same as a 44 but has the gear drive unit. That looks a lot like a 44/55 power head to me. One of the McExperts will be along soon and let us know. Here is a pic if my 640.

5ysu3aqu.jpg


A 640 can't be a 440 with a gear drive as a 640 is 80cc and a 440 is 87cc ... More like a 440 is a 660 with a gear drive I think... I do love my 440 it is one cutting SOB ... I need to find a 660 I hear they are pretty bad to the bone saws...
 
You're right about the displacement. As far as looks go and trying to ID that super 55 and show that it's different than the 640, I was pointing out that those two are pretty much the same saw.

And yes, my 440 cut very good. It was impressive.
 
Lee with the 10 series saws they do require alot of patience for disassembly and reassembly. I took a rh 10-10 converted it to a lh. It did take abit because the same issue you had. Fixed that issue with abit of tape. I've noticed over the years working on different saws the Mcculloch are alot of the times over engineered. IMO this is why they last so long and can be a pain to work on certain ones. If the motor part is still good swap it into another 10 series case. The 7-10 was a decent running saw. If nothing else you now have a good base for a hot saw.
 
Lee with the 10 series saws they do require alot of patience for disassembly and reassembly. I took a rh 10-10 converted it to a lh. It did take abit because the same issue you had. Fixed that issue with abit of tape. I've noticed over the years working on different saws the Mcculloch are alot of the times over engineered. IMO this is why they last so long and can be a pain to work on certain ones. If the motor part is still good swap it into another 10 series case. The 7-10 was a decent running saw. If nothing else you now have a good base for a hot saw.


This wasn't my first 10 series saw i've had apart but
it might be my last. This foolish saw got to me on the
wrong night i guess. There are some bits and pieces
that are still good but the motor is junk. No biggie, it
didn't cost me much and they're not a rare saw at all.




Lee
 
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