McCulloch Chain Saws

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You're welcome, Carl.

1. Yes.
2. Yes. But my personal preference is 40:1.

Yeppers................although I run 32/1 in everything.

Tried the script disable on the computer, eliminated the linkbucks link but took me to the register screen (not the log on screen), do I really need to go all the way back to being a newb again?

From my phone

Mark

Mark clear your cache and delete 'cookies'. Then come back here again. Right now I'm on Google Chrome with javascripting enabled again. Everything works right now (knock on wood).
 
The linkbucks thing is touch and go. It's annoying as crap and shouldn't be happening specialy sine the hosting itself has several options for firewall and anti-hacking tools. But anyways. The 380 is finally running after alot of headaches with it. If I can get the oiler situation fixed it will be all good. Sometimes it oils well and others not at all. At that point I have to basically prime the oiler system to get it going again. And since the oiler on a 380 is cast in there's not alot of options to fix it. Can I swap over a 250 tank and oiler. I know the bolt pattern is the same but is it possible.
 
SP81E automatic oiler gasket kit

Mark told me that there is a kit that includes the gasket, steel spring/wedge, and a couple of brass grommets that protect the plastic pump body from the steel spring. I have an IPL and can find the gasket but can't find a kit. Could anyone help me out with a part # or a source? Thanks.

I found it.
 
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Eccentric,

Thanks for the info. It has been a roller coaster ride................What have I got?:msp_confused:......it's a std 250:msp_smile:..........nope, looks like a true Super 250:rock:.............wait....looks like a Macfrankensaw:bang:

Ahhh, the surprises and pitfalls of saw collecting. I have split the fuel tank and cleaned, it was a mess in there. Rebuilt the carb(HL-63G....Yes G!??). I have had the saw running, feels like some good compression to start it. I do have a tank leak, not gasket, but small hole in the bottom handle bar mount, where the bolt passes thru the tank. I will post later when this saw is truly up and running. Intresting about the kill switch. My IPL(states 250/300, nothing about super), shows both styles. The side for the early models, and the upper with wire for the later production.
Thanks again
Back on the coaster:cool2:
 
Put the old SP60 http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw-stickies/71126-1451.htm#post4512726 through some white ash yesterday. Wow!! That thing is a beast. Wicked powerful and well, just a wee bit heavy. It's a torque monster. 20" Total 2 bar and a loop of 3/8, .050 Carlton full chisel really throws the chips.
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention the sound of it. LOUD!! It reminds me of a 250cc motocross bike from the same era. :givebeer:

She's a runner again. Thanks Ted.

A couple SP60 questions:

1. Does it have an auto oiler with manual override, or just manual oiler? It's hard to tell as I assumed it was manual only and used it as such for felling/bucking up an ash.

2. Can I run the same fuel/oil mix (50:1) that I've been running in my stihl and husky?

Carl



The auto oilier is in the oil tank and I would not run 50:1 in any saw.
 
Seems to be working correctly at the moment, let's hope the junk is behind us now. I think cyber crime, identity theft, hacking, etc. etc. should all be made capital offences and make the US Government pursue them as aggressively as campaign...

The McCulloch Service Bulletins recommend 32:1 for the 82 cc 10 Series saws and I believe that would be a good selection based on the number of scored saws I have uncovered. No sense in taking a chance on one of those fine units.

Maybe I will have some time to shop through e-bay this weekend to make sure I haven't been missing out on any great deals.

The part number for the oiler kit (gasket, clip, grommets) is 215246. Any 10 Series enthusiast should snap up any you find as they are very handy to have on hand.

Regards from Brasil,

Mark
 
Seems to be working correctly at the moment, let's hope the junk is behind us now. I think cyber crime, identity theft, hacking, etc. etc. should all be made capital offences and make the US Government pursue them as aggressively as campaign...

The McCulloch Service Bulletins recommend 32:1 for the 82 cc 10 Series saws and I believe that would be a good selection based on the number of scored saws I have uncovered. No sense in taking a chance on one of those fine units.

Maybe I will have some time to shop through e-bay this weekend to make sure I haven't been missing out on any great deals.

The part number for the oiler kit (gasket, clip, grommets) is 215246. Any 10 Series enthusiast should snap up any you find as they are very handy to have on hand.

Regards from Brasil,

Mark

Operator's manuals for the 82ccs also say the same. When all their other saws, including SP125C are 40 to 1, I believe we ought to pay attention to the manufacturer when it says more oil for a particular saw.

Mark, have you tried putting in the back two screws yet? I have only done this on rebuilds but that may change. Just last Saturday to fall a tree, I picked one of my MACs off the rack because it had a longer bar than the one I have been using the most lately. It ran good all last season. Now it wouldn't run worth a hoot. It was worse than a mosquito fogger. It had to be the oiler seal as it has been stored oil tank down. I don't have anymore of the kits. While I hate my hit and miss average on aligning the new holes in the case, I may have to drill this one, too. Ron
 
I had every intention (you know where that road leads!) to make a nice drill jig when I went through the CP70 recently since it has the holes drilled already but I got in a hurry trying to get that saw back together and didn't follow through.

I will get a decent drill guide made at some point and put an end to the oiler smoking woes on all 10 Series projects as they come through. Maybe I need to get Homelite 410 on the task as he seems to have a great knack for tool making.

In fact, I am dreaming up some clever approach right now from 6,000 miles away from home...

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Mark
 

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I had every intention (you know where that road leads!) to make a nice drill jig when I went through the CP70 recently since it has the holes drilled already but I got in a hurry trying to get that saw back together and didn't follow through.

I will get a decent drill guide made at some point and put an end to the oiler smoking woes on all 10 Series projects as they come through. Maybe I need to get Homelite 410 on the task as he seems to have a great knack for tool making.

In fact, I am dreaming up some clever approach right now from 6,000 miles away from home...

attachment.php


Mark

A most worthwhile project. I'd be interested in one of those jigs. Hopefully we can convince him to make them for us.
 
I got a pleasant surprise today. A friend that lives about 5 miles away called and said he wanted some saws rebuilt. As usual, I told him to bring them over. Well, he showed up with a mini Mac, 10-10, SP80, and a SP81E. He knew that I'd been looking for a SP81E so he said that it's mine if I get the other three saws in good running condition.

You guys may recognize the saw, it was on eBay awhile back. I made an offer but it was declined. I'm happy with the deal. I'll be rebuilding it soon and let you guys know how it is.

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Operator's manuals for the 82ccs also say the same. When all their other saws, including SP125C are 40 to 1, I believe we ought to pay attention to the manufacturer when it says more oil for a particular saw.

Mark, have you tried putting in the back two screws yet? I have only done this on rebuilds but that may change. Just last Saturday to fall a tree, I picked one of my MACs off the rack because it had a longer bar than the one I have been using the most lately. It ran good all last season. Now it wouldn't run worth a hoot. It was worse than a mosquito fogger. It had to be the oiler seal as it has been stored oil tank down. I don't have anymore of the kits. While I hate my hit and miss average on aligning the new holes in the case, I may have to drill this one, too. Ron

Thanks much guys. I will pay close heed to your recommendations. I'll gather an additional one gallon can for the Mac.
 
Are you referring to the sp81e? Year?

The number is 11-600439D which is 1977

I'm thinking Fraser is askin' about the Ford underneath the saw. I'm eyeing that handlebar. Looks to be the wider one for the chainbrake. Nice saw score Joey.:clap:

Edit:

That's what I get for leaving the reply box up for 10 minutes before sitting back down to click 'submit'. Fraser already answered you...
 
Oh, duh.

The truck is a '67. My grandfather bought it new and put only 41k miles on it. It's now got 43k. Always been garage kept, not rebuilt. Y'all will think this is a joke, but I'm telling the truth....Last year I changed the original plugs, wires, points, rotor, and cap. And yes, I was driving it before I serviced those items.

The saw has the single piece ignition. Not the two piece. Does that make it not a real sp81e? The numbers say its a 81e. For the chain brake, it need a few parts but at least it's got the right cover.
 
Oh, duh.

The truck is a '67. My grandfather bought it new and put only 41k miles on it. It's now got 43k. Always been garage kept, not rebuilt. Y'all will think this is a joke, but I'm telling the truth....Last year I changed the original plugs, wires, points, rotor, and cap. And yes, I was driving it before I serviced those items.

The saw has the single piece ignition. Not the two piece. Does that make it not a real sp81e? The numbers say its a 81e. For the chain brake, it need a few parts but at least it's got the right cover.

It's a real 81E...............just one that somebody swapped in a later ignition. I'd bet that was done quite a bit.
 
McBob reported a while ago that most of the SP81E saws had the two piece ignition swapped for the one piece unit. I posted some photos when I went through my SP81E last winter; the original two piece ignition did work and that's how I put the saw together but the one piece (from a PM700?) made a much hotter spark and clearly showed more advance as I spun it over with my cordless drill with the timing light hooked up. I use the timing light initially to insure the spark was occurring at the right point...

Mark
 

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