McCulloch Chain Saws

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Rear screw is a 10-24 pan head.........either 7/16" or 1-1/4" long. IPL lists both.

Front is a 12-24x5/8" hex head screw with a locking plate under it.

The IPL shows a third screw in the middle (towards the front). 10-24x5/8" hex head. Not all 10-series saws had that middle screw.

Mark I could use a couple black CB levers. Don't have to be NOS. Just good used pieces would be fine. Wouldn't turn down NOS of course. More for us to talk about. I still need to pull that 4-30A metering chamber back apart to refresh my memory about the metering diaphragm. Should do that today....
 
Rear screw is a 10-24 pan head.........either 7/16" or 1-1/4" long. IPL lists both.

Front is a 12-24x5/8" hex head screw with a locking plate under it.

The IPL shows a third screw in the middle (towards the front). 10-24x5/8" hex head. Not all 10-series saws had that middle screw.

Mark I could use a couple black CB levers. Don't have to be NOS. Just good used pieces would be fine. Wouldn't turn down NOS of course. More for us to talk about. I still need to pull that 4-30A metering chamber back apart to refresh my memory about the metering diaphragm. Should do that today....

Thanks Aaron. The brace has all 3 screw holes but this saw only seams to use the front and rear hole. I could be wrong though.
 
Well with a foot of snow delivered today I hand nothing to do but work on the CP-70. I still have to rebuild the carb but its all there now and its almost ready to come back to life. I know the oil and choke buttons are not correct but neither is the air filter cover. All I could find was one from a CP-55:DIMG_20140105_183954.jpgIMG_20140105_184010.jpgIMG_20140105_184020.jpgIMG_20140105_184034.jpg
 
Mac 6-10 I hope your significant other don't mind you taking over the kitchen. Over the years I've got yelled out many times by different gf's for having parts here and parts there in the house. Even had a transmission in the bathtub a few times. When it's cold out the less time out in it is better.

Mark thats what I run figure 32:1 is halfway between.

Has anyone else noticed that Mac built alot of saws of the 10 series.
 
Na she's cool! I only do rebuilds in winter time inside when all the parts are washed and dont smell of saw smells!. Plus its only 6° outside now:eek:
 
Too cold to snow in this part of Iowa, started out around 4° this morning and going down from there. All of the schools are already closed for Monday, can't risk the kiddies getting their toes cold. I believe they were suggesting -26° overnight before wind chill. Oh well, it will only last 2 or 3 days.

Shop stays pretty comfortable, never drops below 50° and the garage always stays above 45°.

We are truly spoiled.

Mark
 
Too cold to snow in this part of Iowa, started out around 4° this morning and going down from there. All of the schools are already closed for Monday, can't risk the kiddies getting their toes cold. I believe they were suggesting -26° overnight before wind chill. Oh well, it will only last 2 or 3 days.

Shop stays pretty comfortable, never drops below 50° and the garage always stays above 45°.

We are truly spoiled.

Mark

Mark I have been working in a auto repair shop as a tech for the last couple of weeks and for us no school is a blessing as our school busses sit outside and most of them evening plugged in would be difficult to start. I really believe that has more to do with the school being out. The most affected by it is the vehicles. At least that is the way I see it. We service all the schools vehicles.
 
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Ron,
I'm pretty deaf and had a hard time trying to learn how to tune a saw. I stopped trying to listen for the gurgling noise and now listen for the tone shift. Wide open sounds different than in wood. Start the saw, wide open then put it in the wood, if it changes tone, then it's good. I've even gotten to the point I can feel the shift in my hands on non-vibe models, less vibes when it cleans up, almost a pulsing feel when 4-stroking and a nice steady buzz when clean.
 
Thanks, Randy. I don't know squat about the low side and next to little about the high side but I try to adjust the high side to the highest pitch/rpm while in the wood then I enrich it an 1/8 turn*. It is hard for me to be consistent with the down pressure and it takes a lot of time that I would rather be doing something else so to learn another way would be great. If I could add a hundred saws to my fleet, I could really spread out the cost of Aaron's airfare. :) Ron

* as previously reported, I once turned the high 1/8 turn lean by mistake on my favorite PM800 before putting it to bed. I destroyed the piston on my next outing in just a few minutes. I discovered later that in addition to the lean setting, the intake boot was torn and would open up in certain positions.
 
Thanks, Randy. I don't know squat about the low side and next to little about the high side but I try to adjust the high side to the highest pitch/rpm while in the wood then I enrich it an 1/8 turn*. It is hard for me to be consistent with the down pressure and it takes a lot of time that I would rather be doing something else so to learn another way would be great. If I could add a hundred saws to my fleet, I could really spread out the cost of Aaron's airfare. :) Ron

* as previously reported, I once turned the high 1/8 turn lean by mistake on my favorite PM800 before putting it to bed. I destroyed the piston on my next outing in just a few minutes. I discovered later that in addition to the lean setting, the intake boot was torn and would open up in certain positions.

Ron, hopefully I'll be able to bring you this PM805 sometime and we can do some tuning.
 
the low is just an idle. it should run nice and smooth and when you stomp it, not hesitate, fall on its face and try to catch up or take to long to accelerate. Don't worry about the chain spinning yet. just get a nice smooth transition to fast speed... its a guess really and you'll end up in the middle between those two spots.... falling on its face and taking too long to speed up. Then turn down the LA to make the chain stop spinning or up to the point where it actually spins and then just a little down to stop it. Low and idle speed are done!

Now go to the pile, pick a nice piece and rev the saw up. Notice the sound at full throttle, its screaming or struggling to get there and can't decide if it wants to go or not.... then while at full throttle, set the bar down on the wood. If the tone changed, it was 4-stroking before touch down. If you notice no change, richen the saw up and try again. Here's a video of my 797 being run by a friend. Every time Mike lifts the bar, you can hear the tone change, especially the first lift. It is 4-sroking in the cut nearer the bottom of the log because he's not lifting as hard.

My saws actually take just a little upward pull to clean-up in the cut. Close your eyes and listen to the saw several times and once you can picture the sound, you'll never forget.


Hey Lee and Aaron,
the new to me 797 video i promised in a nice red oak. We bucked the entire log using it, several of the guys that went enjoyed running the saw. Always nice to see a friend put the saw down after a couple cuts and say "Now that's a saw!"
 
Sorry, guys but videos don't play right for me since the hack. Well they did once during that brief period when the site format was changed to the closest format to the old format before they reverted back to the current format. Ron
 
Either this weekend or next I'll shoot a video or two and put 'em on my photobucket account. Will post the link here. You should be able to watch them that way. Gotta find some bigger wood ta cut. Hmmmmm....
 
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