McCulloch Chain Saws

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I have plenty of heatshrink if you need. I also have a thing called revnut. It is like a rivet and is set in like a rivet but is threaded down threw the center. If that top screw gives you trouble we can use one of them to hold it. But I think what you have will hold. Good work.
 
I think I should be good to go with the fuel system now. Put in a new fuel line, fuel filter, air filter, and the duckbill valve in the cap. Made sure the vent in the cap is open. Saw started and ran OK for at least one log cut but I didn't have time to give it a real workout. Maybe tonight.

So now I'm on to troubleshooting another issue the saw has (this is a Mac 10-10S, btw). When left sitting between use it often leaks a bunch of bar oil out. Several years ago I took the oil tank cover off and re-sealed it with silicone gasket compound. I don't think it leaks from the cover. Seems like it comes from the chain side. Any suggestions for finding out why oil leaks out?

Thanks,
Rob
 
On many saws the baffle from the oil filler cap has been lost (frequently in the oil tank) and they can leak if the tank is completely full.

On the bar side, there is a pretty good reservoir so they will likely leak a bit when shut down. If the oil tank is not properly vented (vent hole with a cotter pin in it for the older models, vent in the oil tank cap on the later ones) the pressure can overcome the check valves and force some out.

Don't overlook the tank cover. On early models the casting was pretty thin and would deform it the screw was overtightened preventing a good seal. Later oil tank covers were thicker with some stiffening ribs cast in, I have had to substitute the cover on a saw or two to prevent leaking. I don't like to use any sealer in that area since you may have to go back in to adjust the automatic pump flow or reseal the pump itself if it leaks into the crankcase.

Mark
 
Mark, you may recall that I gave one of my brothers a DE 80. He kept having oil problems. He finally just gave it back to me. I thought he was having problems getting the oil to the bar - nope, it was dumping bar oil out the side. I didn't know this until I got it home. I had a huge oil puddle. It hadn't been run so pressure isn't the issue. It leaks at the bar plates so I don't believe it would be the cover. I haven't torn into it, but the only thing I can think of is a cracked case at the bar studs. I hope not, but we will see. Ron
 
Brian Thacker said:
Mine are all leaking from the oiler port on the chain side. Some leak more than others which leads me to believe there is a check valve somewhere that is just old and letting oil threw it when it should not.
Click to expand...
I think it is just like a syphon, the vent lets air in and the natural syphon or wicking of the design just let's oil move. almost all of my huskys leak the same way out the oiler.

Brian
 
Is there a certain way we can store the saw to reduce oil leakage? Maybe tip it up at 45* (with bar side higher than starter side)? I guess it's a balancing act between avoiding oil leakage and avoiding fuel leakage. :)

Rob
 
I think it is just like a syphon, the vent lets air in and the natural syphon or wicking of the design just let's oil move. almost all of my huskys leak the same way out the oiler.

Brian
I have two Huskys a 350 and a 235. The 350 had always leaked, have had it for many years and the 235 had never. Over the winter I put a new oil pump in the 350 and it stopped leaking. I got the 235 stuck in an elm tree at the first of the summer and it has leaked ever sense. Get one fixed and the other starts.
 
Does anyone know how hard it is to replace the oil pump in a Pro Mac 10-10S? I'd be willing to give it a try with a new one if it isn't too much brain surgery to R&R it.

Thanks,
Rob
 
It is according. If it has the newer style oil pump that is plastic all you have to do is remove the front cover off the oil tank, remove one screw and out it comes. If it has the older style metal pump you must take off the fuel tank because one screw is under the tank.
 
Brian Thacker said:
It is according. If it has the newer style oil pump that is plastic all you have to do is remove the front cover off the oil tank, remove one screw and out it comes. If it has the older style metal pump you must take off the fuel tank because one screw is under the tank.
Click to expand...

Part number is 215339. Looking online it seems like parts could be either metal or plastic (I see both under that part number). Since I don't have a regular oil cover gasket (used silicone gasket sealer last time) I can't easily pop the cover to check. I guess I'll wait until I have some downtime for the saw to dig further.
 
I have found this also. It is my understanding that either pump will fit. Someone correct me if I am wrong. The only mounting difference is the plastic pump mounts with one screw in the front and a spring steal tab on the bottom of the pump that keeps the back supported. The metal pump has the same screw in the front but has a screw and nut in the rear that is only accessible by taking the tank off.
 
Not sure about the siphon theory with my saws, I have a bunch of identical MACs. I have a couple that slowly drip; probably the front cover. I have one that pours - to be investigated. The rest are fine. Ron
 
Is this work fixing? would require a parts saw find, bottom handle mount area is broke.

d68e8c7af3c2cf5217fb3a17586220b9.jpg
35a217bc36163625827499dff47ba2d9.jpg
335a78e6b99ad935abfc9041d0b117d6.jpg


Brian
 
fechtichmac said:
Have tryed filing square ground chains with GREAT success. using triangular file and Oregon semiskip chain 28" 3/8 . With sp125 -101B (Huskys as well) it cuts more then awesome .I could not believe it before.
With some "common sense" the filing is not as difficult as often described.
Yes I know it can be dangerous ! ( The whole life is dangerous most of the time)
have no pics at time since my camera doesnt work.

Regards

E.
Click to expand...
New selfmade file holder for this...
works file for correct angels
E.

Gesendet von meinem SM-G928F mit Tapatalk
 

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