McCulloch Chain Saws

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My pro Mac 700 parts came in. I still need to get some crank seals. I've never rebuilt a saw with such thin rings. Does anyone have any tips and tricks for re-installing the cylinder. I have the red ring squeezers but they don't seem to work for clamshell type saws. On the stihl 025 saws I don't use a ring compressors. I'm afraid I'll break a ring. I would really appreciate if someone would give me to tips.
Thanks


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Picked up a saw I have always been keen to have a crack at. A no spark and tatty ProMac 850. After a bit of a clean it actually came up OK and has a good sprocket nose bar and even the chain was not too bad. After giving the coil and good once over I got a spark! Chucked the compression tester on her and she pulled 160psi. Missing a starter switch and the rubber pad that sits under the handle but this baby is not far from being put back to work. Don't see that many 850's in Australia that are actually going so this will be a really good saw to have for a bit of fun.

 
The wood is quite dry so I doubt there is much moisture in it to freeze. If there is any, it's cold enough to freeze it.

What did you do with all the snow Tim? Oh well, you might as well enjoy it while you can, as you'll be waste deep in it in no time.

You didn't make your wife run the snow blower through the backyard before those test cuts did you?

Saweeeet machine there.
 
We've only had a few inches so far. We're supposed to get around 10cm Sunday night. We usually don't have much here. Lots 25 miles north and more as you head more north. Really bad 100 miles and more west and the south side of Lake Ontario (mostly in the US) gets clobbered.
We haven't had a white Christmas for quite few years.
The work Christmas party for the kids is on Sunday. Heading over there with my compressor to blow up a couple hundred balloons. Tying that many balloon knots is hard on the old fingers.
The balloons are spread over a large space on the floor. The little ones absolutely love it. My grandkids ask if the balloons will be there months in advance.
It's going to be the last one for them.

I would never let my wife touch the blower. She's machine challenged. I would be scared the whole time she would be operating it. Besides, she always tells me my OPE are a piece of poop.
 
Sun yellow is a good color match for the older saws.

Mark
B

Tomcurtis - Sunburst yellow (Rustoleum) is close, but a bit darker/more orange. The information below came from Brad Snelling a while back but should still be good:

- AutoZone DE1642 yellow high temp engine enamel
- Engine yellow: Krylon DE1642 Daytona Yellow, 500 F
- Dupli-Color Engine Enamel in Daytona Yellow (#DE1642)
- Rust-Oleum Sunburst Yellow (7747)

I know there are a couple of Valspar #'s that are very close as well but I don't have easy access to that information right now.

I have also found a few hardware store brands of old implement yellow that are very close.

One of the problems with old McCulloch saws is the yellow did change over time, both from exposure/etc. and the fact that the factory changed shades. Your best bet is to start from scratch and repaint the entire saw, then keep it away from the others so no one can compare them side by side.

Mark

Ron
 
I hate to change the paint subject but I am rebuilding a pro Mac 700. I can rock the connecting rod side to side. Like a 5 degree angle on each side. Does this mean the connecting rod is bad? Or does it just mean I need new needles. I have a good used 10-10 rod. If my pm700 one is bad can I use that?
Thanks


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a969ce40009db0466e0b0047bb092191.jpg

My pro Mac 700 parts came in. I still need to get some crank seals. I've never rebuilt a saw with such thin rings. Does anyone have any tips and tricks for re-installing the cylinder. I have the red ring squeezers but they don't seem to work for clamshell type saws. On the stihl 025 saws I don't use a ring compressors. I'm afraid I'll break a ring. I would really appreciate if someone would give me to tips.
Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Just lube the cylinder good and align the ring ends on the indicator pin and slowly push the cylinder down onto the piston. The bottom of the cylinder is tapered a little to make it easier. A thin screwdriver can help if needed.
 
I'm trying to figure out why there are such differences in paint condition on older Mac saws. Occasionally you see a saw like fossil's PM700, which happens to be what my dad's old 10-10S looks like (which I have now). I know that 10-10S got lots & lots of use, but was relatively well cared for. i.e. It didn't roll around in the back of a pickup truck or anything. But more often I find them looking like mopar's 5-10E, which is with lots of random paint flaking off all over. I've picked up a PM700, 10-10A, and a 805 that all look tough. I can't believe THAT many saws were thrown around or left to roll around the back of a truck all their life that they would end up like that. Besides, the paint flaking is all over, not just on the edges that would hit when rolling around. Is it just from some difference in paint quality over the years or something? The old 10-10S is from 1982, and the PM700 above looks to be from about the same time period based on its style. Did Mac improve their paint quality in the 80's compared to what it used to be before that?

Rob
 
I think you would find that the paint may or may not have improved in the early '80's but lots of old Macs from the 60's have most of their paint. The biggest part of paint adhesion is surface prepping the metal surface that's to be painted. If the parts have oil or release agent on them they won't hold paint worth a darn. What has improved a lot over the years is color stabilizers that don't let the paint fade as fast as it used to. I think by adding UV absorbers or blockers.
That's why most of the car plants have turned the solution maintenance in the paint lines over to the paint manufacturers especially since the use of water born low VOC paint use.
 

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