McCulloch Chain Saws

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Ended up using 3/16" ID with a wrap of shrink wrap, I think it will work fine. Just gonna keep an eye on it.
 
So I ran a couple tanks through my free timber bear this weekend. I have a pile of half rotted pine logs in the back yard that I inherited when I bought the place and didn't want to run a good chain cutting that crap. This saw has a Chinese unbranded chain on it so I put her to work. Hit steel once and broke off 2 cutters. Hit rocks a couple times. I think I spent as much time filing as I did cutting lol. Anyway, this is the most I've run this saw since I got it, and I actually kind of like it. Despite it being ugly as sin and ergonomically challenged lol.
My only real gripe as I've said before is the oil cap placement. It makes it virtually impossible to not make a mess filling it.
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I really like my PM610. Yes I know it's heavy and yes it is ugly as sin. With Ron's help I over came the oil issue with a spout from TSC that works well for all my saws. I like the way mine cuts. It has tractor like torque. I had it buried totally with a 20" bar and was baring down on it and it just kept going. Just kept cutting.

Brian
 
I really like my PM610. Yes I know it's heavy and yes it is ugly as sin. With Ron's help I over came the oil issue with a spout from TSC that works well for all my saws. I like the way mine cuts. It has tractor like torque. I had it buried totally with a 20" bar and was baring down on it and it just kept going. Just kept cutting.

Brian

Could you provide a link to the "spout" your talking about, I saw mention of it before but have been unable to find it at my local TSC.
 
After considerable delay I'm getting my PM8200 back together. Any concerns about running this flywheel? Just looks like weird plating (for whatever reason) and some casting wrinkles to me.


The ridges are just flow lines (weld lines) where the aluminum comes together in the mold. The steel core is inserted into the mold and then the aluminum is injected.
I would only be concerned if there are any cracks, especially ones at the hub. Those are the blow up ones.

You guys have weird gas can fill spouts. Thank goodness the EPA is protecting you guys.
 
Could you provide a link to the "spout" your talking about, I saw mention of it before but have been unable to find it at my local TSC.

I looked on the TSC website and did not see it. I found it by the gas cans and funnels. The SKU number is 32157. Here is a pic of it.
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It feels like it is made out of rubber.

Brian
 
Does anyone but me sometimes feel like the biggest goober in the world? Well Ron gave me a 36" brand X bar to go onto my SP125c. Well first challenge was that the brand X bar was for 12mm studs and the SP125c studs are 8mm so not a big challenge for me, just made an adapter for it. The next challenge was to drill a oil hole for the chain oil to get to the chain. Not a problem, put it on the drill press and a couple mins later problem solved. The last challenge was the brand X bar had a long tail piece that needed to be shortened about 3/4 inch to go by the clutch on the SP125c. I had studied on this all week. Now for a guy with a masters in electrical engineering and designed cellular systems, towers and antenna mounts for almost 20 years this should be a snap. Well I decided that the best tool to cut this with would be my angle grinder with a cutting wheel on it. Well as I an trying to get to my angle grinder tripping over my plasma cutter cussing it for being under my feet and in my way,,, and then I got this "I am a stupid moron" thought in my head. I have a PLASMA CUTTER DING DING!!!! Sometimes I wonder about myself!!!
:baaa: :baaa: :baaa: :chainsaw:
I think I need to take up drinking again. At least I would have something to blame it on.

Brian
 
If I lengthen the slot the chain tensioner would not fit right. I would have only a short throw for it to work.

Brian

PS Anytime is time for a M/C ride. Just you need to join me....lol
I need to get a saw in my hands and saw some wood or brush hogg my field. Not kidding that relaxes me better than anything.
 
Currently it is 3/16" rubber fuel hose, I've found the 1/4" is a good fit in the airbox and acceptable on the carb nipple, but too loose on the tank nipple.

If I recall correctly, a couple of mine had a small piece of wire wrapped around the hose to hold it on the tank nipple. I've had to use zip ties (we call them zap straps) to hold fuel line on when using tygon instead of a fancy molded line.
 
I've had it with this 440!!!!! Had it running good and cutting good. Took it out to show my dad, started it up and the idle ran away...... lost the tune. Messed with it a little in the garage that night, got it re tuned, or so I thought but was too late to cut with it. Went tonight to try to cut and fine tune it and it won't start!!!!! Fuel running out of the muffler!!!! I only hit the primer once initially, and it popped on the first pull, then nothing but an occasional pop after that. So fed up with this thing!!!
 
So I got it to fire up and run again, had to pull the plug and clean it. Tried to tune it again and it still isn't acting right. Thought I had it close, made a cut with it, by the end of the cut I had lost the fourstroke unloaded, and the idle started to run away again. It really acts like an air leak but I've done the crank seals (twice now actually) re sealed the reed plate and air box, new carb kit and carb base gasket. New plug twice, only gaskets left are the stuffer and the flywheel side engine cover. If I roll the saw onto the flywheel side and back upright, at idle it will stall almost every time.

Anyone have a tillotson I can swap into this thing? I never have these problems with those!!!
 

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