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I will probably pull the oil tank then. That will give me opportunity to make/replace the stuffer gaskets. I already had the fuel tank off. Now wishing I had serviced the pump at that time. But it worked so I figured all was well. Where might one find parts for the pump if needed?
 
2broke2ride said:
So, the possessed 440...... it is torn down again for yet another pressure test. The only leak I can find is from the oil port on the bar pad...... I think this is normal though as this saw uses an impulse driven piston oil pump (which works) can anyone confirm this?.......... Mark? I don't know where to go from here..... light in on fire? Call a priest? I have been over this saw countless times.
In other news, I messaged a guy last night on a really clean 7-10 for a stupid low price but still haven't heard anything back, probably missed out again[emoji35] that is another of my bucket list saws along with a 550.
Click to expand...

I have a fullwrap 7-10a. open to interesting trade offers. I like it, and don't especially wanna see it go. like to help w/others' wants, tho. like stuff that starts w/p. poulan, pioneer, pm, consider others...
 
Pulled the PM8200 automatic oiler and just got more confused than I was when I was trying to locate current info on the setup..., even from the PM8200 IPL itself. Was working off of the basic 10 series oiler info and illustrations which indicated the removable cap for access to the ball valve, etc. No such cap on the newer pumps or lock nut to hold it on, the latter I assumed to be part of the adjustment setup vs. just being there to hold the cap and internal components in place. Tried like hell to pop that cap off with no luck and finally pulled another newer pump I remembered having in my misc Mac parts box. NOS pump. Exactly the same. Remembered Mark's excellent write up on these things some time ago and found his newer thread on the subject.

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/mcculloch-10-series-oiler.249620/#post-4631216

Everything you'd ever want to know about the 10 series oilers is right there and very well explained and pictured. Great stuff Mark, and tremendously appreciated. Cleared it all up for me except where the adjustment screw should be as a reasonable starting point. Assuming that hasn't changed just by the differences in the housings, I guess I'll use the general method recommended in the 10 series shop manual. Looks like I have all the parts I'm supposed to have and just need to put it back together and adjust. Not the most convenient method of oiler adjustment, but it is what it is. I just hope I'm not overlooking something else really obvious.

This is the illustration I was referencing for disassembly and what I thought I should have in front me when I got it apart.
Oil Pump.jpg

This is all I actually ended up with. (The parts above the housing in the illustration.)

0507171423_resized.jpg

Here is the difference (courtesy of Mark's thread.) The pump on the right allows access to the check valve, etc. The pump on the left uses a press fit from the inside for that part of the assembly (as pictured below this pic) and the components are not accessible.

DSCN5919.JPG

0507171458_resized.jpg

Now to reassemble and re-install and see what happens. It will be interesting to see how the OEM spring clip installation goes compared to the ones Steve NW WI fabbed up.


​
 
Mark, tell me what you see or don't see......
b4bd3d2d7c0a9b1da638b0214d337204.jpg
f4cee0cbbaf231a4e1db2ab849d7c1d2.jpg
f27a7b5ff9e1898392871cf1e7a1a14c.jpg
5414aa4620c9c5cfc0a32ef70681f223.jpg
54b541e32df8195191ee792d36aa8efb.jpg

There's a spring in there too I just didn't take a pic.
Should I perhaps just make a blank gasket and block impulse to the oiler and just go with manual oiler? The oil pump works really good, I don't see how that phenolic washer could ever truly "seal" to the bore anymore than a piston ring can be air tight.
 
rocketnorton said:
I have a fullwrap 7-10a. open to interesting trade offers. I like it, and don't especially wanna see it go. like to help w/others' wants, tho. like stuff that starts w/p. poulan, pioneer, pm, consider others...
Click to expand...

Only thing I could offer up is the 1074, it runs perfect but the bar and chain are whipped and it could use clutch shoes. Again though, we have that darn cost of shipping issue lol.
 
2broke - You could try blanking off the automatic pump but that is a lot of work. First you need to make sure the check valve in the automatic pump is present and working. There should be a spring and a check ball in the top of the automatic pump as shown here.

DSCN0675.jpg

Poge - with the automatic oil pump apart, look down in the body and turn the adjuster screw until it is just flush with the body; that is the maximum output you will get from the pump. As you turn the screw clockwise it will move the adjustment sleeve and reduce the stroke of the automatic piston.

DSCN5923.1.jpg

Fact is, the design of the old automatic pumps like the one on the 440 and the ones used on the 10 Series are very similar.

Mark
 
Busy Mac oil pump day. Got mine squared away largely due to your thread on the subject. (Good luck with yours 2Broke.)

Now I'm on to a carb issue. Can't get a nice idle. It'll hold when set a little too high via the idle screw, but not lower where it should be via a normal 'L' jet adjustment. Could be a coupla things, but I can't help but wonder what they were thinking using such small fuel line on an 82cc saw with an SDC carb. I used 3/16's x 3/32 Tygon F-4040-A to replace what was there due to the tank hole size and to fit the dinky little inlet barb on the carb. Could have used 1/8 ID but the thinner wall didn't seal well going into the tank. My PM800 has a larger molded line and a Zama carb. I doubt this is my idle problem, but it's a head scratcher nonetheless. I'll re-kit the SDC and see where that takes me, though the diaphragms looked and felt in real good shape. Maybe a rebuild and USC bath will pop something loose in the L circuit to get me in business.

0507171915_resized.jpg​
 
PogoInTheWoods said:
Busy Mac oil pump day. Got mine squared away largely due to your thread on the subject. (Good luck with yours 2Broke.)

Now I'm on to a carb issue. Can't get a nice idle. It'll hold when set a little too high via the idle screw, but not lower where it should be via a normal 'L' jet adjustment. Could be a coupla things, but I can't help but wonder what they were thinking using such small fuel line on an 82cc saw with an SDC carb. I used 3/16's x 3/32 Tygon F-4040-A to replace what was there due to the tank hole size and to fit the dinky little inlet barb on the carb. Could have used 1/8 ID but the thinner wall didn't seal well going into the tank. My PM800 has a larger molded line and a Zama carb. I doubt this is my idle problem, but it's a head scratcher nonetheless. I'll re-kit the SDC and see where that takes me, though the diaphragms looked and felt in real good shape. Maybe a rebuild and USC bath will pop something loose in the L circuit to get me in business.

Click to expand...

I wouldn't worry about that size of fuel line. The 82 cc Homelites have an equal or smaller dia fuel line through the metal tube than that and they use at least as much fuel, likely more than the MAC. If it were starving for fuel you'd notice it on the high side anyway.

I have a 7-10 that puked oil as well. I kept adjusting it down and it seemed to fall off significantly at some point. Sorted now and still oils well but doesn't drown in it.
I often thought when I was working on it that I should have put a little tray or a pill bottle in the tank so I could run it on a flat surface without putting the tank cover on each time, feed it oil and watch the output at the discharge port.
As far as oiling after after it shuts down; I'm not sure if you are experiencing that because there's oil all over the discharge area that drains down (my large Pioneers, Poulans and Homelites all do that) or pressure in the tank is pushing it out the port. Run it without a bar or clutch cover on it and see if it's pushing oil out the port after you shut it down. If it is, try cracking open the oil fill cap when your done to release the pressure in the tank. I'm not sure if your 8200 has a tank check valve or just a cotter pin. The ones with check valves get pressure from heat.
 
Just make sure you don't have any cracks radiating from the hub. That flaking you see on the back at the hub is aluminum overflow from the diecasting operation. Aluminum does not stick to steel. Somehow the molten aluminum got back there. If those flakes bother you, scrape them off.

If it's going to be nagging at you when you run he saw, I may have a flywheel that will fit your saw. I can pull it off tomorrow if nothing comes up and have a good look at it.
I can likely get a PN from it and some dimensions to make sure it would fit yours if you decide you want it.
 
Poge - I don't think you have to worry about the flywheel, I have several that look very similar. As other have noted, that is just the way the aluminum looks after the die casting process with some flow lines and overflow. I can't imagine how fast you would have to spin one to create enough forces to take it apart but I am sure the saw will never achieve those kind of RPM.

Same goes for the fuel line. There was one McCulloch retrofit kit that included an aluminum bushing to go through the tank, a small diameter fuel line, and a new fitting to press into the carburetor. Note that if you buy this one the tube of sealer with the kit will be dried up already...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/McCulloch-C...120609?hash=item58df56a921:g:t30AAOSwQItUD1sF

Mark
 
'Preciate the offer, Tim, but I'll take my chances. I see no evidence of any actual cracks and feel a little better knowing Mark has a few similar ones, too.

I flushed the carb with a few cycles in the USC and kitted it with relatively good results. Settles in nicely between 2300 and 2500 RPM now with the 'L' right around 1 turn out but the idle screw adjustment is extreme to achieve that. Also need to choke it to re-start if it sits for more than a few minutes even though it's still hot. The PM800 behaves more like I would expect the 8200 to behave. I'm leaving the 'H' pretty fat until I can get it into some wood then I'll let her rip and see what how it holds up. Not sure if that may be having an adverse effect on the 'L' adjust with this saw. I leaned it out a little at low RPM's without much difference in the 'L' response, tho.

So what say ye wise ol' sages about this extreme idle screw adjustment? And is there a clever solution for the lack of a spring in an impulse line? Pretty sure that's my problem with the SP81. Looks like a kink about midway where the bend is the most severe.

As usual fellas, thanks for the input.

0508172009a_resized.jpg​
 
PogoInTheWoods said:
' And is there a clever solution for the lack of a spring in an impulse line? Pretty sure that's my problem with the SP81. Looks like a kink about midway where the bend is the most severe.

As usual fellas, thanks for the input.

Click to expand...

Not clever, but for $5.10
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-mcculloch-chainsaw-67944-SPRING-oem-chainsaw-/272294365903

Also, the Echo / Homelite black fuel line is very forgiving with bends and not kinking. Easy to get over fittings that are considerably larger than the ID of the hose.

Is that spring internal or external?
 
It's the spring in the eBay link -- internal. I typically use the Stihl hose but it would be a tad small for the fittings and it also uses an internal spring for sharp bend applications. Wonder if a few ball point pen springs would be stiff enough for the Mac hose? Hmmm.
Any chance you have a handy part number for the Echo / Homelite line? Or just the dimensions? I'll be hitting a Farm and Home Hardware in a day or so and they have a decent selection of line/hose and are also an Echo/Shindaiwa, Husky, Toro, etc., etc., dealer.
 
That spring is intended to be internal in the fuel line of the 10 Series as well as impulse line.

I have never seen a problem with the impulse line on the anti-vibe 10 Series but I'm sure it can happen, must be why they show the spring in there.

On several saws I have had to bend the tab on the throttle to properly engage the idle adjust screw.

Mark
 
I can't give you a PN but some generic hose for OPE with an ID around 1/8" and a heavy wall thickness should work. I think I'm using a grey Toro line at present. I usually buy a couple of feet of line for impulse lines in case I run into a saw modern enough to have one.
I like it because it works well in those situations where the fittings on either end are different sizes.

I thought of the pen springs as well. If they fit, I would wind them together around 3 or 4 loops to make a continuous spring.

I find those 10 series MACS a pain in the butt to work on. Too many three handed jobs.
When you get them running well it's all worth it though.

The censored part is O-P-E. How idiotic is that?
 

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