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Sorry to kind of hijack the thread here, but I'm on a mission haha. Ive posted in the wanted adds and the general saw forum about a tillotson carb adapter for a Mac S550. I got the saw with the original flat back carb, which was not in good shape. Somebody, somehow has bent the throttle shaft and governor at some point. So i had a HL63 that I put a kit in, but i need the adapter to make it work with the Mac pulse port. If anyone has an adapter or a lead on one I would be much obliged. Just PM me with a price. Thanks a bunch!
 
Here's a strange one...

After having the top of the tank/airbox off of the Pro Mac 10-10S to replace the cork gasket and put teflon tape around the fuel line where it goes through the tank wall I got it all put back together and filled it about 3/4 full with gas (to maybe 1/2" below the opening). Since then it has been sitting and I've been monitoring it for leaks around the fuel line or tank gasket to see if my fixes worked. Strangely, I keep coming back and finding the top of the tank wet with gas. First I thought maybe the tank cap was not venting right or something and was causing pressure to build up, so I removed it. Same thing continued several times after that. I'll wipe everything off and leave it sit and come back a few hours later. Fuel seems to be wicking up through the bolt that holds the tank top on. Why would that be? It has never done that before and I've had the tank top off several times. I do have the spacer in place and don't think I over-tightened anything.

I guess I can take the bolt out and replace it with a dab of silicone around the head, but I'd still like to know why this is happening.

Everything else seems normal:
- Saw is sitting level on the floor and hasn't been moved
- Gas is normal 40:1 recently mixed saw gas with Sta-Bil. I may have used a different 2-stroke oil than last time.
- Temps have been steady and normal in the 60-70's in the shed
- I haven't run the saw since the fixes.

Thanks,
Rob
 
Could be the case. I know on my Mac 250 it had some goop (silicone?) on the bolts connecting the oil to the fuel tank. I fabricated a washer from a chunk a gasket cork for the same reasoning you had. I chose to use the gasket instead of silicone for the mess factor and ease of removal should I take it back apart in the future.
 
Wanted to update about the fuel line/tank leak... It seems that the teflon tape idea is working quite well. Used it on two saws and no sign of fuel getting into the airbox now. Time will tell if it remains effective or deteriorates and starts to leak again, but for now I'm happy that the airbox is staying dry. Anyway, now I have three old saws working decently: PM 10-10S, PM 10-10 Automatic, and PM700. I think the carb kit that is one the way for the PM800 will have that one at least running soon.

As for the wicking issue, that seems to have stopped too. Nothing really changed so I'm at a loss to figure it out. Oh well...

By the way, if anyone has a spare "sawdust guard" for a 10-10 Automatic I'd be interested in buying it. This is for the left side recoil version of that saw and is the black plastic 'mesh' looking piece surrounding the recoil to keep debris out. I'm thinking of trying to fabricate my own with small mesh 'hardware cloth' if I can't fine one.

Rob
 
Brian Thacker said:
Line the tank with Red-Kote.

Brian
Click to expand...

Thanks. That's good to know of as a potential option as a last resort, but I'm hesitant to do it because I suspect it will make future repairs on the saw a real challenge if/when I had to remove the tank top half again. Plus, the inside of the tank on the problem saw has a lot of deteriorated paint (some gone, some flaking off) that I'd have to really prep well before coating. And I'm lazy.

Rob
 
Rob - I hope to have an electronic file so someone with a 3D printer can produce the sawdust screens for the 10 Series saws. I expect to have a prototype made in PLA in November, but I suspect any "real" parts will need to be manufactured from some other material. If someone can recommend a reasonably priced 3D printer that works with materials other than PLA let me know and maybe I can get one and try to produce the screens myself.

It is possible that the duckbill valve in the fuel cap was not sealing properly, on most 10 Series saws that would produce a drop or two from the fuel cap onto the top of the fuel tank even when the saw is setting. Maybe it just needed a bit of "wet time" to soften up and seal correctly again.

Mark
 
Red Kote is a good option for any of the tanks that are sealed (anti-vibe 10 Series models, etc.), but with the reproduction rubber gaskets available from e-Bay now days I would hesitate to seal the tank on any of the models with a removable top. That said, it is no trouble to fish the fuel line through the fill opening in the top of the tank to replace a fuel line without taking the tank apart. I generally reserve removing the tank top for saws that require a more substantial cleaning.

Mark
 
Mark, once again you are at least two steps ahead of me. Good thing - I have been toying for a while with getting a mold made for the screens, but just last week our local plastic plant was sold so I doubt now that I can get it done given the low volume. Ron

PS. Won't the old three piece screens work on modern ten series?
 
I will dig into this a bit deeper when I am home again but I am 99% certain that that the three piece screens only work on a few peculiar models like the CP70 saws. Seems to me the design of the starter housing/flywheel cover was different that included some legs or "stand offs" that the three pieces guards clip on to.

A quick search of my photos does not reveal anything obvious. I know I have two or three sets of the three piece design at home, that would certainly be an easier part to reproduce.

Mark
 
I've thought of creating a file for that but just haven't had time. If you do, I hope you undersize it a little so it fits better that the factory. It always seems that they are just too big. On the ones that I have that are cracked in an opening, I snip some off and put that side on the bottom.

Eric
 
Good to hear about the sawdust screens. Need to figure out one for my 10-10 as well when I'm not at college. Be sure to update us guys on this thread if anyone makes any progress. Sure would be cool to make one on a 3d printer.
I know my campus has a 3d printer lab that us students could use for a small projects. So if anyone has a design on one of the screens, I'm sure I could work on something on the printing end.
 
heimannm said:
Rob - I hope to have an electronic file so someone with a 3D printer can produce the sawdust screens for the 10 Series saws. I expect to have a prototype made in PLA in November, but I suspect any "real" parts will need to be manufactured from some other material. If someone can recommend a reasonably priced 3D printer that works with materials other than PLA let me know and maybe I can get one and try to produce the screens myself.
snip
Mark
Click to expand...

Is the screen the "214192 mcculloch"? I have it on ebay search and do get a email every now and then but the bid gets into the stratosphere and I never win one. For $40+ I will make one/two out of stainless screen for my 10-10a and Promac10-10....
My 7-10A if I'm not mistaken, is different with the roller type starter, and has 3 seperate pieces?:hi:
 
The only saw I have that I know for a fact uses the three piece screen is a CP70L, but I think there were some of the early SP models that also used that flywheel cover. I have at least three different 7-10 saws and all of them have the one piece sawdust screen. With McCulloch, very little is etched in stone though as they often seemed to use whatever parts were available at the moment.

I should know more in a few days once I get home again.

Mark
 
According to an IPL at least one model of the 7-10A had the three piece screen. The housing kit is a different number than the new saws but I can't see any difference in the illustration. I have only located one screen piece. I could make all three from metal for less.

I have noted like Eric that the newer one piece screens I bought before they all disappeared did not fit well and were out of shape. With all my project saws, I am now out. As a user I am not too bothered by lack of authenticity so I may just make some from hardware cloth or stamped aluminum.

Ron

PS The roller recoil cover survived longer than the three piece screen. I like them but they have become scarce too. Someone had a bunch on eBay several years ago. I bought two. I wish I have bought a couple more. More a personal distinction for my saws than a necessity.
 
Got a freebe tonight. Not a favorite in the McCulloch family but a keeper. I see the foot pad is broke. Anyone got a spare? May turn into a parts saw of it won't run.IMG_20170912_234222.jpg
 

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