McCulloch Chain Saws

[leeha]

Was bored this morning and decided to go play with that carb some more. Took it apart and checked everything, cleaned everything. Tried it again, and it will pull fuel on it own. However it will make it to the diaphragm and no further. For what ever reason it will not spray out the jets. My guess is something under the welch plugs. No worries though, I have a good Tilly coming from Chris, so many thanks to Chris. I do think this carb is fixable, just going to have to track down some plugs and give that a shot.

If the metering lever spring is to stiff you will
not get any fuel in that chamber.
You did say that you had stretched it?
How much?



Lee

 

[HeRoze]

You have to learn to pull just the clutch mechanism itself, leave the drum in place. Sometimes if there are no threaded holes in the clutch for the puller you can use the drum to pop it loose, then remove the clutch mechanism, remove the key, then the drum can come off without causing any collateral damage.

Mark

don't know what you mean --- I threaded a couple bolts in to the clutch, and the .....

dammit, I think I may have figured it out as I was typing. So, remove the wire and the plate to free the drum and then pull the clutch using the bolt-holes?

 

[Brian13]

If the metering lever spring is to stiff you will
not get any fuel in that chamber.
You did say that you had stretched it?
How much?



Lee

Yes I did stretch the spring. But when I pull it back apart there is fuel in that chamber. If I have followed the fuel passage correctly, the needle has to open for it to fuel that chamber? From there I have lost track of where it goes next. I am thinking it will go into the two small holes in the body that are connected to the mixture needles? It might be the spring is stretch to much and is not allowing enough fuel through?

 

[heimannm]

For HeRoze - Ahh, a gear drive...yes if you remove the "wire" and the plate behind it, the clutch will come off first allowing you to remove the key, then remove the drum.

Side bar - there are a variety of wire diameters for that retainer, as the clutch wears you can put progressively larger wires in to insure the clutch does not slip. I have a few different examples in my stock at home.

Mark

 

[HeRoze]

For HeRoze - Ahh, a gear drive... ---Mark

thx for the confirmation.

yea, i'm back on the 640 in between working on a rental house. i was kid-sitting last night and pulled an hour or two of garage time tearing another saw apart. don't tell anyone; i don't want to get anyone's hopes up on a lot of saw time until that rental is on the market.

 

[heimannm]

McCulloch 77

I did get started cleaning up the 77 from Eccentric last night. Lots of old, polymerized oil in this one but with a little bit of time and effort it is starting to look better. They look kind of like a wet cat when partially stripped down, but it will fill out again once the tank, flywheel cover, and carburetor are all back together.

Under the protective layer, I found someone had made a very clever repair for a broken bottom mount for the wrap handle.

Mark

 

[Eccentric]

I need to replace the fuel line and line in the tank on my 250 and wondering what the ID on the line is.

Will you still speak to me if I use Tygon?

Wendell - I think 3/16" I.D. will work, but you will have to use a grommet or something similar where the line passes from the tank to the carburetor through the air box. The O.D. of the tygon will be much smaller that the O.D. of the original fuel line, and will lack the molded in grommet like the line we used on your saw at my place. Failure to seal up that opening will lead to a lot of dust getting into the air box and into the carburetor.

Mark

On the front tank McCullochs that I've worked on recently (200,'standard' 250, 550, 650), there's a cast in 'pass-thru' tube/nipple at the rear of the tank. Both ends were too large for me to use 3/16" ID line on. That cheesed me off, as I have over 40 FEET of 3/16" ID automotive fuel line that I got NOS from a surplus yard near me for $4 (yes four bux for over 40'), and all my Homelite C/XP series saws use that size from the tank to the carb.

Had to replace both lines on the 650. Ended up using 1/4" ID Tygon and a large Stihl backpack blower clunk filter in the tank (to replace the molded line with the 'bell' for the felt filter), and 1/4" ID automotive fuel line from the tank nipple to the carb to replace that molded line. The automotive line fitted well on both the tank and carb nipples (I like typing 'nipples'), and the OD sealed well against the hole in the airbox. IIRC, that surplus guy had a roll of 1/4" fuel line too. Time to go buy out his stock of it for the big Macs....

Another green and red beast found me tonight, 112cc's of snarling tree death, send it, the others are lonely for their brother!:msp_tongue:

Good score Randy. I've been off of AS for a few days..........but I wager somebody's posted in the H thread about a a 900-995 series D/G saw they just got!

According to the IPL's that I have there were at least three different ratios used on the large gear case saws, 3.6:1, 3:1, and 2:1. I don't know what the ratio is in the small gear cases used on the 650/660 saws or the 10 Series saws.

I found my 2:1 gear set in a 1-62, the 1-85 was equipped with 3.6:1 but I swapped it with the 1-62 to give some additional chain speed on the 1-85. I think my 840 has the 3:1 set but I would have to turn in over by hand and count it out to know for sure.

For the older saws pulling 1/2" pitch chain and a long bar, the higher ratio (3.6:1) was probably necessary. I have 1/2" pitch chain on a 48" bar on the 840 and it will continue to grunt away when the bar is burried. It I was clever I could link to the video, but there is You Tube posting of that saw cutting through a sycamore that consumed the full 48".

Mark

Good info Mark. The 650/660 gear drives were available with 2/1 and 3/1 gearsets. Both are covered in the IPL's. My 650 is 3/1. I don't know jack about the X-10 series gear drives...

I did get started cleaning up the 77 from Eccentric last night. Lots of old, polymerized oil in this one but with a little bit of time and effort it is starting to look better. They look kind of like a wet cat when partially stripped down, but it will fill out again once the tank, flywheel cover, and carburetor are all back together.

Under the protective layer, I found someone had made a very clever repair for a broken bottom mount for the wrap handle.


Mark

All right! Aaron's excited to see that 77 getting the Heimann Touch. Can't wait to see/hear 7.3ci/120cc of ancient McCulloch digging into some big wood. Are you going to run that 26 bar and loop of 5/16" Oregon 16C chain on it? Kinda short for the saw, but it's got some BIG teeth. Should have no problem pulling it. I don't know what the gear ratio of those saws was. The IPL does mention an optional gearset...........but doesn't state what the standard or optional ratios were. That saw seemed to have at least a 3/1 gearset.........if not deeper.

That saw sure had a thick layer of cooked on oil, pitch, and scum. You should have seen it before I gave it the first cleaning. I took a couple of pounds of that crap off, and removed three large mud-dauber nests. Two within the flywheel cover, and one inside of that large can muffler. Thank God they didn't make their way into the cylinder. I thought that bolt on the handle bracket looked new. Couldn't see under the layer of 'protective' scum. Is the broken piece part of one of the gearcase or crankcase castings, or is it replaceable?

 

[wendell]

Well, I hope the 3/16's works for me since I finally got to the store to buy it today.

 

[RandyMac]

I am going to have an 82cc weekend, need to see exactly what I have.

 

[Warped5]

I am going to have an 82cc weekend, need to see exactly what I have.

I know what you mean.
I have a glass exactly that size.

 

[RandyMac]

0630 Sunday, be there or be left behind.

 

[Eccentric]

Well, I hope the 3/16's works for me since I finally got to the store to buy it today.

Maybe you'll get lucky. You might be able to get the line to stretch more than mine would.

I am going to have an 82cc weekend, need to see exactly what I have.

0630 Sunday, be there or be left behind.

That's tempting. I'm off from 2300 tonight until 1445 on tuesday. Taking a 3-day. Might get in a wee bit of trouble if I skip out on my birthday weekend (Sunday 7/10) to drink and play with saws however. I think I'll just join you in spirit. Wait a minute...............aren't you clicking over on the odometer soon as well? IIRC you're a July man too. Did a quick search on that newspaper site. Lots of bad crap to read....

 

[RandyMac]

Yep, the odometer trips next Wednesday, next year it will fall on a Fryday.

Tricky times ahead.

 

[promac850]

Yep, the odometer trips next Wednesday, next year it will fall on a Fryday.

Tricky times ahead.

I'll see if I can get my pops to buy me some PBR, and I'll share that birthday moment...

My birthday was Wednesday of this week... which yielded me a present of some money from my parents and a couple of relatives... which just today that money went towards an order for an Ingersoll-Rand 2135 TiMax impact wrench... so I gots another tool going into the toolbox...

What do you want for your birthday? Pretty women (might want to send the wife out with her friends...) a cake and some nipples (thanks eccentric) or an owl perched on the front of your Ranchero as a hood ornament? (wtf?) I thought another Mac, but remember you already said you've got enough of them yeller saws...

Nah, your booze and PBR should be enough, eh?

 

[heimannm]

Is the broken piece part of one of the gearcase or crankcase castings, or is it replaceable?

Part of the crank case casting, the repair will have to stand as is.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

I can't find the Iowa Spring GTG thread, so I'll post these here. Wendell stopped by on Friday afternoon so we could look at a coiuple of saws, ended up helping me plant the garden with my wife's supervision.

Here's how it looked before I left at the end of May.

Here's how it looked when I got home at the end of June.

We are enjoying peas every day now, radishes are done already, zuchini and summer squash are just starting now. Strawberries are finished but the raspberries are just starting to appear.

Mark

 

[struggle]

Mark I drove right past Dike last week twice no less. I had a funeral to go to in Rochelle, Il. I thought about stopping in but did not know anything new, plus I did not want to end having to weed your garden if things got out of hand:msp_biggrin:

If I would have thought about it before hand I could have left the SP125 for you to figure out why the auto oiler is now not working:msp_sad:since the new gaskets in place. Manual works though. I have not taking it apart to see what is going on. The saw does start usually within two to three pulls which is nice. Several people have wanted to hear it run after looking at it. One friend calls it the widow maker after hearing it run:msp_razz:

 

[heimannm]

If the manual works, but the automatic does not, I would suspect the little spring and ball check valve in the top of the automatic pump. Sad thing is, you have to remove the whole oil tank just to get at the top of the automatic unit.

The SP105 I'm working on has similar issues, I was able to get it to work after a fashion by stretching out the spring a bit since the original looked like it had been broken off.

Mark

 

[Eccentric]

I'll be you guys could find a replacement spring locally. There are still good hardware stores around that have a wide selection of springs. Bring the old spring with you and try to match it up...:cool2:

 

[struggle]

I had taken the spring out prior to putting it back together but did not remove the adjuster deal if I recall and it turns hard so maybe something there is mucked up. I will eventaully get to it.

My biggest concern with this saw was hearing it run properly and it does run very well. A couple of times I have forgotten to push the compression release and you would think I would have learned the first time it hurts when it pops you back.