McCulloch Timber Bear

[promac850]

I used my 610 Saturday, and in general it seems to bog down too easily. I have done the carb adjustments, seems to run fine, just not much power in the cutting as I have read in other testimonies. So I'm thinking this would be a good candidate for porting and a muff mod. Any advice or wise words specific to this saw before I start? Appreciate any help.

Check the compression, and also check it the spark screen is clean.

Are you sure you got your carb tuning down right? If you are, then a carb kit and possibly a fuel line and filter is needed. Mine got that treatment last year, and it sure helped. It wouldn't even start after being stored for God knows how long with stale mix in it. So that little tune up woke the thing right back up, and it responds properly to tuning and does not bog down at all, even leaned on, with the 20" bar buried in hard wood.

These do not have a muffler in the sense we all are used to on Huskys, Stihls, etc. It's just a hollow metal box to redirect flow, and all it's capped off by is a spark screen.

I planned on porting one, but I heard they don't like to run over about 12,500 rpms... some guys mentioned they tend to grenade when run up there, even if it's tuned properly.

I imagine a carb kit may be all you need to get her going strong again, unless the rings are worn and it has low compression.

 

[purdyite]

ProMac, thanks for the information. I got mine in a pickup load of stuff. I cleaned it up on the outside and got it to run, and have used it like that since then--I have never put a carb kit in it. So you could be right, that might wake it up. I think I remember checking the screen...anyway, I'll start there. If it's not common to port these things, I'd better just leave that part be. Been wanting a compression tester, here is my justification!

 

[Wood Doctor]

"New" Mac 610

Took her out and ran her today:

Neighbors failed to complain. One said that he'd bever heard such a beast and that it sounded better than firecrackers.

 

[Engineeringnerd]

I bought an Eager Beaver 3.7 back in the 80's and used it up until about a year ago. Sold it with a few chains and spare parts for $150. Always ran when I pulled it, and a good bar and chain turned it into a good, but heavy saw. Smoked a lot! Also leaked bar oil on the floor between uses, so had to drain the tank. Other than a new recoil mechanism and new gas cap, never put any money into it. Good reliable saw.

 

[Chris-PA]

Silver Eagle 3420

Found this thread while searching for info on my Silver Eagle 3420. I just got it from my Dad - it was old and heavy and he had trouble starting it now, so he got some new plastic thing. I'm trying to figure out where the Silver Eagle variation fit in to this model progression. Based in the torx screws and such it looks like it might be newer than the PM605?

I'm just a guy cutting firewood for heat, and I've used a bunch of cheap saws for years - a Poulan 2775 20", a Craftsman (Poulan) 18", and my wife got me a cute Husqvarna 16".last year. The Husky is very nice, but too small much of the time. Anyway, the Poulans keep breaking (no surprise), and I have wood to cut. The parts are cheap and readily available, so I fix them but I cannot afford the down time, so I asked my Dad to bring over that old 20" I knew he had laying around for backup, and he drops off the 3420.

And I love it. I like older stuff that can taken apart many times and that I can maintain. It will be my main saw for now, or at least until something breaks that I cannot replace. It's metal, the pull starter feels solid, with a little TLC it starts on the 2nd or 3rd pull now, and it idles and runs like a champ. Big (to me) motor has lots of grunt. That Poulan 20" has a 2.8 cu in motor - it will barely cut poplar with a sharp chain. I tried it out in the very large white oak I'm cutting up now and it cut very nicely.

I had to pull the oil tank to replace the inlet tube, and there is a shield behind the chain that's torn up (replacement on the way). I'll have to make a gasket for the muffler as the old one broke apart. The bar is a little worn (probably from the oiler issue). Other than that it's good to go.

 

[Warped5]

Took her out and ran her today:

Neighbors failed to complain. One said that he'd bever heard such a beast and that it sounded better than firecrackers.

Very nice! Looks to maybe have the original bar, too. All you need to do is hoist one a time or two to know why they are called the 'cinder block saw.'

Your neighbor likes beasts? He should hear my 10-10 .... lol

 

[Chris-PA]

Chain Oil Pump Question

I still don't have the oil pump working properly, and I suspect the pump has failed. I do not see any kind of check valve on the pump inlet, and I don't see any way it can work without one. Does anyone know if there was supposed to be a valve behind the small brass inlet port that's pressed into the pump body? Or is there a check valve in the inlet filter? I can order a new pump, but if I keep ordering saw parts I'm going to start hearing about it, so I want to make sure it's worth it first!

 

[Warped5]

I still don't have the oil pump working properly, and I suspect the pump has failed. I do not see any kind of check valve on the pump inlet, and I don't see any way it can work without one. Does anyone know if there was supposed to be a valve behind the small brass inlet port that's pressed into the pump body? Or is there a check valve in the inlet filter? I can order a new pump, but if I keep ordering saw parts I'm going to start hearing about it, so I want to make sure it's worth it first!

WHW - Members here have well-chronicled the oiling system on this saw family. It is not the oil pump as much as it is the diaphragm/gasket hardening/deteriorating/failing. The overwhelming course of action is to take the oiler off the saw along with the mounting plate its on. Clean out the pump completely; compressed air and Sea Foam work well. Order up a new diaphragm and gasket; make sure you receive the correct ones. Bolt it all up and you should be good to go. This is exactly what I did and mine is now fine. PM me if you need an IPL or for parts sourcing. Good luck!

 

[Chris-PA]

Oil Pump Works

Just to follow up, I got it working - maybe I was just being overcautious/paranoid/stupid, but it's working great now.

I took the pump apart and cleaned it again, then reassembled with a light smear of Permatex Form-A-Gasket non-hardening sealant around all the inlet port surfaces. Then I cleaned out the oil fill cap with brake cleaner. I don't know if any of that actually accomplished anything.

I was up in the woods cutting for a while today and the saw is running really well. It is a huge contrast after running smaller displacement Poulans with less aggressive chains.

I'd still curious about the 3420 and where they fit time-wise in the PM605/Timber Bear lineup. I read somewhere that they were made in the 1994 -1996 period, but the manual is dated 1991.

 

[rustycar22000]

Time Frame?

Hey Woodheatwarrior, I pulled out my Manual and its dated 1995. I purchased the saw 3/5/98 per the receipt still stapled inside. So your saw is probably a mid 90s. Without photos to add to this, the front cover looks like this...

Timberbear Power Mac 605-20

Pro-Mac 605, 610, 5700 Silver Eagle 3420, 3720

Super Pro-Mac 610 Eager Beave 3.4, 3.7

If anyone needs a copy for whatever, contact me. I'll copy it and mail it


[email protected]

 

[Chris-PA]

Hey Woodheatwarrior, I pulled out my Manual and its dated 1995. I purchased the saw 3/5/98 per the receipt still stapled inside. So your saw is probably a mid 90s. Without photos to add to this, the front cover looks like this...

Timberbear Power Mac 605-20

Pro-Mac 605, 610, 5700 Silver Eagle 3420, 3720

Super Pro-Mac 610 Eager Beave 3.4, 3.7

If anyone needs a copy for whatever, contact me. I'll copy it and mail it


[email protected]

Mine is Mod# 60013409, Ser# 11 010149

The manual is copyright 1991 and the cover lists only the 3420 and 3720.

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15956229@N05/6057994340/" title="IMG_5269-800 by GWChris, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6210/6057994340_96ae662e32_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_5269-800"></a>

 

[rustycar22000]

Hey At Least You Got A Good Ole Silver Eagle What Bar Length?

 

[Chris-PA]

Hey At Least You Got A Good Ole Silver Eagle What Bar Length?

It's a 20" bar. Thanks for the info BTW. I thought the Silver Eagles were the last versions, but apparently not.

 

[n9viw]

ANOTHER Timber Bear?!

Not enough wood cutting's got us TB owners coming out of the woodwork! Sorry.

I picked up my TB (Mod. 60013414) at a swap meet. It had good compression and wasn't stuck, but it didn't fire, was missing the brake arm, and was rusty and grubby as all get out. I was going to leave it, but the guy said make him an offer, so I said my price - FIVE BUCKS - and he took it! It's been sitting in my shed since, and that was about 4 years ago! Heck, $5 isn't bad just for parts.

In the process of also resurrecting a Pro Mac 6A and my Dad's old Echo CS-900EVL (34" bar on it, that baby walks thru oak like it's pine, but it vibrates like a steam loco so I can't keep mufflers on it, and it fragged the replaceable nose a while back due to a clogged oiler), I pulled the TB out and started tinkering. The chain is hashed (rusty/stuck links, but still sharp), and the bar nose sprocket was stuck but came free with some help... a soak in some kerosene should do it up right. It had air and fresh fuel, and it popped a couple times, but I couldn't get it to fire to save my life!

I pulled the plug (AC R46SX), and the ground tab was bent all the way to the electrode... well, I guess THAT would explain no fire! I straightened it (but neglected to peek inside the cylinder to look at the piston top) and reinstalled it. A few pulls, still nothing... pulled the plug, and the tab was bent again. THIS was when I took that peek and noted that the piston was marked, but didn't seem to be overly damaged.

I've ordered the correct replacement (the store didn't have the AC CS45T, but several sites have called out the Champion RDJ6/6C as a replacement, which he had), and hope to get some fire out of it later this week. In the meantime, I have to fab up a choke rod (planning to use a custom-bent coathanger... honestly, plastic parts don't belong on a chainsaw) and get a new chain. I'd also like to get the brake arm, because while it might add a layer of annoyance to changing the B/C, I'd rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it. I'll read thru the manual beg sticky to see if someone's got it up there.

Oh, yeah- long time lurker, first time poster. Glad to be here, this place is IN-DI-SPENSABLE!

 

[manatrash]

i have a timber bear 60013414 that has 1 inch crack on the oil tank.anybody know of a good reliable way of a patch.i found tanks online but they are for the 60000 series 3.7? i think mine is a 3.4,are there other models that will fit mine.is this tank magnesium or aluminum,if it is aluminum i can have a friend weld

thanx for any answers chris.

 

[heimannm]

The oil tanks will interchange between all of the 600 Series saws. Having been filled and soaked with oil for so many years I doubt welding is a viable option. It might be possible to grind and clean the cracked area and patch it with some epoxy (JB Weld) or maybe polyesther like a fiberglass repair but why bother when there are so many donor saw available.

Mark

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I think Mac put the name Eager beaver 70s/80s&later Timber Bear on saw's also allot.I thought the bigger macs made in the 90s were put together in Mexico? at least that is what I remember from 15 years ago

Later models were made in mexico. You have to have a scraper to get that sticker off, it's on pretty good...

 

[SS396driver]

My neighbor gave me one over the weekend

runs well I think I may need to take the oiler apart . or maybe I should try some lighter oil was 15° when I tried it out on saturday. But it smokes like all out when I first start it so I assume the oiler diaphram is shot.

 

[Angelos]

Timber bear was my first saw. About 20 years ago it was brought to me from the U.S.
It features a manual oiler. I can't get it running and no one is able to fix it around here.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

My neighbor gave me one over the weekend

runs well I think I may need to take the oiler apart . or maybe I should try some lighter oil was 15° when I tried it out on saturday. But it smokes like all out when I first start it so I assume the oiler diaphram is shot.

Let us know what you find out...mine does the same thing. Sounds like you have a good neighbor.