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Nah, do the 660 up to take the 880 :msp_thumbup:

660 bottom, w/ a MM 880 top!!!? :hmm3grin2orange:

121.6cc 8.6+hp. pulling a 4ft.er @ 12-13k indacut :jawdrop: :hmm3grin2orange::rock::bowdown:


:dunno:
 
Well if you have a 460 cutting like a 660, might as well sell the 660 and get a 880 for MM to do!!!!:hmm3grin2orange: :rock:

It is a friend of mine's 660. He thought he was bad because his well broke in 660 was a little faster than my fresh 064. He said in this way that makes my ears bleed, "Wannnnnna Raceeeeee?" LOL!
 
looks very strong randy i'm happy as a pig in $hit
times
cant 2.9

pine 5.0


oak 9.6

460 8.3

thats only 1.3 sec behind a 460 looks like i got a 460 for sale thanks you have done a great job as usual :cheers:
 
looks very strong randy i'm happy as a pig in $hit
times
cant 2.9

pine 5.0


oak 9.6

460 8.3

thats only 1.3 sec behind a 460 looks like i got a 460 for sale thanks you have done a great job as usual :cheers:


I was just timing the oak cuts as well. I don't know why there's just one cut with the 460......the ####ty dsl connection musta took a crap.

If you're happy I'm happy Darren. It's amazing how much power there is in that saw. Remember I still have never touched the intake and only brought the exhaust back up to stock duration after lowering the squish. :msp_thumbup:
 
i'm not a real smart man Randy, but it sounds like there could be alot left in there? i so badly wanna see you reach the max on this saw, i just don't have the coin right now to send mine.
 
i'm not a real smart man Randy, but it sounds like there could be alot left in there? i so badly wanna see you reach the max on this saw, i just don't have the coin right now to send mine.

I bet that it takes alot more than money to have one of these done.
 
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i'm not a real smart man Randy, but it sounds like there could be alot left in there? i so badly wanna see you reach the max on this saw, i just don't have the coin right now to send mine.

I know for sure, that it takes alot more than money to have one of these done, on a saw that you just were nice enough, for enough time for the "budget" to allow.
And I've been around long enough, were all my tricks, aren't really tricks anymore.:msp_wub:

You reach a point where more carb is needed to support the demands of the engine. We are close to that point now.
 
what if we found a carb that would support the saw and adapt easily, do you feel there are any gains yet to be had?

i ask because you had said you didn't touch the intake and barely messed with the exhaust so i thought if you were to dig in there it may be worth the carb headache?

also, didn't Brad use a bigger carb? 044 maybe?
 
I was just timing the oak cuts as well. I don't know why there's just one cut with the 460......the ####ty dsl connection musta took a crap.

If you're happy I'm happy Darren. It's amazing how much power there is in that saw. Remember I still have never touched the intake and only brought the exhaust back up to stock duration after lowering the squish. :msp_thumbup:

nah mate leave it like it is it's got touqe in spades thats what i want if i want a screaming banchi with no balls down the bottom end i'll buy a husky :potstir: again thanks on a job well done :cheers:
 
what if we found a carb that would support the saw and adapt easily, do you feel there are any gains yet to be had?

i ask because you had said you didn't touch the intake and barely messed with the exhaust so i thought if you were to dig in there it may be worth the carb headache?

also, didn't Brad use a bigger carb? 044 maybe?

if you go too much father you will end up in the race saw category ( well not far from it ) and start losing longevity and the ability to run for long periods of time IMHO cheers
 
It's a myth that anything richer than an optimal tune makes more torque. Sure, too lean hurts it. But fatter than optimal will too.

I agree Brad. Sometimes though people set saws up way too lean in small wood where the lack of torque isn't noticable. Stick a longer bar on the saw and bury it and you'll find that it sometimes needs richening up a tad.

nah mate leave it like it is it's got touqe in spades thats what i want if i want a screaming banchi with no balls down the bottom end i'll buy a husky :potstir: again thanks on a job well done :cheers:

Hah hah. Common misconception from Stihl owners as peak rpm's generally the same. Hey haven't you just bought a Husky? :D
 
Hah hah. Common misconception from Stihl owners as peak rpm's generally the same. Hey haven't you just bought a Husky? :D

no i got one here but have'nt payed for it yet haha and that ain't no 50cc limbing saw you no what i was talking about grunt down low not at the top end
 
Darren, Matt gave me some extra C3M carbs. I'm going to tweak one for my 365BB, but I'll have a few left over. Let me know if you want one and I'll send it to you, just PM me with your address.
 
If I recall correctly, no. The carb on the 390 has the mounting holes at an angle (WJ vs WS series I think). Perhaps after you have the 261 for a while you may want a bit more top-end out of it. I doubt you would loose low-end if the carb was metering correctly.

A bigger carb works similar to having more intake duration, but allows you to retain more base compression. Provided it was metering correctly, you would only notice a drop in low-end torque if the crankcase was allowed to fill too early at low revs and you started to get back-flow out the intake. If the engine was never lugged down to that point of back-flow, then the bigger carb would give you more power through out the entire powerband, although the actual peaks of torque and horsepower would be pushed a bit higher.

Perhaps Brad could chime in with what he did and what results he got.
 
If I recall correctly, no. The carb on the 390 has the mounting holes at an angle (WJ vs WS series I think). Perhaps after you have the 261 for a while you may want a bit more top-end out of it. I doubt you would loose low-end if the carb was metering correctly.

A bigger carb works similar to having more intake duration, but allows you to retain more base compression. Provided it was metering correctly, you would only notice a drop in low-end torque if the crankcase was allowed to fill too early at low revs and you started to get back-flow out the intake. If the engine was never lugged down to that point of back-flow, then the bigger carb would give you more power through out the entire powerband, although the actual peaks of torque and horsepower would be pushed a bit higher.

Perhaps Brad could chime in with what he did and what results he got.

don't mind me at the moment me head is in la la land thats the one of the 044
 
I used a Zama C3M off a 044. I had to swap the shafts. It makes a real difference. I don't recall my port timing numbers, but I believe I lowered the intake. In no way was it not still a work saw. I still know where the saw is and he loves it.
 
Darren, Matt gave me some extra C3M carbs. I'm going to tweak one for my 365BB, but I'll have a few left over. Let me know if you want one and I'll send it to you, just PM me with your address.

I think you mean Chang 3 Ming carbs Terry :D
 
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