More video (hopefully better)

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MuleyJ

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OK, I tried it again. Took a new 28" bar and brand new 28" Stihl RSC chain to do these. These are the fist six cuts for both. All saws are same B/C and 7 pin rim. Same round as yesterday. The 660 is tuned WOT at 13,100, 064 the same as before at 13,000 and I leaned the 372 out to 14,700. No 7900 this time cause I don't know if the Husky spacer will work and I did not have time anyway. The 660 has a DP muffler but the single outlet on the 064 is probably bigger than the total area of the DP. Don't hold anything back this time guys, I can take it!

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Times from the vid editor:
660 1} 21.43
660 2} 21.27
064 1} 21.70
064 2} 22.47
372 1} 21.00
372 2} 22.00
Some things I learned. Maybe I'm just trying to console myself, but I don't think this chain is as sharp as the Oregon chain I filed with a Granberg. If you look at the chips there is more fine stuff in them and they are not as big as in the other vids? Either I leaned out the 372 too much or it does not pull the 28" bar quite as well or both. I was a little prouder of my 372 yesterday than I am today:cry:
 
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I'd take any one, or all of those saws to the woods; probably all of them, so I wouldn't have to stop to sharpen or fuel up. Wood looks fairly hard. Good vids.
 
looks dull, still think the stihls need more chain too.
 
the 7900 uses the large husky mount, so need for any spacer.

This is what I used to put the bar on the 372. After looking a little closer I think it would work for the 7900 too. We'll see tomorow.

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=10030&catID=

looks dull, still think the stihls need more chain too.

Stihl sharpened it, but I kinda thought the same thing. If you send me two grand I'll send em to you and you can build the chain to your liking:D The bar that stays on the 660 is a 32" and skip, you might approve of that one. I'm not gunna go psycho on a brand new Stihl chain for a 660 cause then the smaller saws won't like it. I don't think it would be far off if I put an 8 pin on the 660 but the 064 still feels like I could push on it more.
 
Im not baggin on ya, just looks like the chain is off a bit, I could tell you were leanin on the 64 and it was wanting more.... I run a full skip on a 36 on the 66, with a slightly more aggresive raker than normal, I have just found I get better performnce with a aggressive full skip than a normal full comp. have you tried hand filing? after a lot of practice, and with a good jig, I can get a chain sharper than new, and I use a el-cheapo northern tool grinder to get the rakers perfect, and to fix rocked chains.. for 110 bucks it is the best thing I ever bought,.
 
Im not baggin on ya, just looks like the chain is off a bit, I could tell you were leanin on the 64 and it was wanting more.... I run a full skip on a 36 on the 66, with a slightly more aggresive raker than normal, I have just found I get better performnce with a aggressive full skip than a normal full comp. have you tried hand filing? after a lot of practice, and with a good jig, I can get a chain sharper than new, and I use a el-cheapo northern tool grinder to get the rakers perfect, and to fix rocked chains.. for 110 bucks it is the best thing I ever bought,.

I have just about every sharpening device known to man. I hand file most of the time. I used a Granberg on the chain I used in the other vid as I noted above, which I think was sharper than this chain. I use a FOP on everything for the rakers and for touchups. Some of my chains need more off the rakers than I can take with a FOP so I take a little and check until it I think it is right. The grinder I have mostly sits unless I hit something or someone else wants to use it. There is no question I am still learning what sharp is, but the fact that I think I might be able to improve on an out of the box Stihl chain signifies that I am either improving, or that I am an egotistical :censored:, I don't know which one it is yet.
 
064 sounded very rich before going into the cut, i never did see you lift on it to see if it fourstroked comeing off a load. 660 looks brand new an might run alittle harder after break in.

wood loocks hard.

dont lean a saw otu to make a cool vid for the as viewers its not worth it in the long run 372 looked very stron yesterday, today it sounded like it didnt want to hold the rsssssss as well. i didnt watch the 7900 vid

stihl chain cost to much to exsperimint with , im running all oregon now after running a slurry of stichl chain. i realy like ther oregon in the wood and the price compared to stihl
 
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064 sounded very rich before going into the cut, i never did see you lift on it to see if it fourstroked comeing off a load. 660 looks brand new an might run alittle harder after break in.

wood loocks hard.

dont lean a saw otu to make a cool vid for the as viewers its not worth it in the long run 372 looked very stron yesterday, today it sounded like it didnt want to hold the rsssssss as well. i didnt watch the 7900 vid

stihl chain cost to much to exsperimint with , im running all oregon now after running a slurry of stichl chain. i realy like ther oregon in the wood and the price compared to stihl

The 064 is a very different sounding saw it, really does not have the same sound as other saws at any RPM? The max RPM spec as far as I am aware is 13,000 which is where the saw it set, same as the last vid. It will four stroke past that though. The 660 is well past break in, but has been well kept. How it would run against other 660's I do not know. I do think that you would need bigger wood or some specific filing to tell much difference between the 660 and 064. I leaned out the 372 a little to see how it would perform. You could hear it leaned out slightly for the second cut and that cut was slower. I had it set where it was yesterday because it felt right and I have already added back the fuel.
 
Nice video either way, the quality was great! Thank you for posting this.
 
specs are only guidlines some saws do have a difrent sound. my 066 is like that. i couldnt tune it till i got it in wood. what i like is that when your liftn to regrap some more wood with the dawgs that the saw 4 strokes noticably then it goes right away when it goes back to cutn.
i then check to plug after awhile to make sure its getn the good carhart brown color. i also burn 40/1 thats ratio is imprinted in me because thats what i ran in my motocross bikes also gives a slight peice of mind knowing its got a smidlge more oil then 50/1

my 044 is difrent i can tune it by ear out of the wood then its pretty much dead nuts on when i cut. i usualy have a carb screwdrive in my pocket whenever im cutting wood so i can make slight adjustments
 
specs are only guidlines some saws do have a difrent sound. my 066 is like that. i couldnt tune it till i got it in wood. what i like is that when your liftn to regrap some more wood with the dawgs that the saw 4 strokes noticably then it goes right away when it goes back to cutn.
i then check to plug after awhile to make sure its getn the good carhart brown color. i also burn 40/1 thats ratio is imprinted in me because thats what i ran in my motocross bikes also gives a slight peice of mind knowing its got a smidlge more oil then 50/1

my 044 is difrent i can tune it by ear out of the wood then its pretty much dead nuts on when i cut. i usualy have a carb screwdrive in my pocket whenever im cutting wood so i can make slight adjustments

I am having a little trouble deciphering your meaning here?
 
I think he's saying maybe try tuning it in the wood instead of just using a tach.
 
I think he's saying maybe try tuning it in the wood instead of just using a tach.

The only one I tuned with the tach was the 7900 and that is just because I cannot read what that saw wants by ear yet. The rest were tuned by sound and I tached them after tuning to for a reference in the future. I try to tune based on how they cut, just not while they are actually in the wood. Small tweak then check etc.
 

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