MS 260 on the way out?

[ShawnK]

Been cruising the forum for awhile, but this is my first post. I've owned Stihl lawn equipment for some time, but recently purchased some acreage and am deciding on a saw purchase. I'm sold on Stihl due to the success I've had with their products--I've checked out Husky; nice saws but they are not prevalent in my area and available service is a key factor in my decision.

I will be clearing mostly smaller trees (primarily hardwood) and using it for seasonal firewood cutting and had been back and forth between the MS 260 (maybe pro) and the MS 280. Based upon some of the posts on this forum, and the fact that I find the MS 280 to be a little bulky and a pound heavier with no evident gain in HP (according to Stihl's figures), I decided to go with the MS 260--and to be honest, despite what company line that the dealers like to give, I just don't like all of the plastic on the 270/280 design.

Here's my question: Two different dealers have told me (while trying to sell me the 280, which they had in stock) that the MS 270/280 is the replacement for the MS 260--which they say will be discontinued by the end of the year. Does anyone out there have any inside information about this? I find it hard to believe that either saw would replace the 260 since, in my opinion, their power/weight ratio isn't as good--even with the "miraculous" anti-vibe system that the new design offers. I believe that they still make a quality product, but the trend seems to be that the consumer/homeowner market is driving Stihl's new designs, as opposed to professional users--so I guess it's possible that the 270/280 are the new standard. Please advise what you folks have heard, and also if you would still recommending sticking with the proven MS 260.

Thanks!

 

[DirtTroll]

MS 260 is great saw if you put the adjustable carb on it. I love mine.

MS 280 is a homeowner POS. End of story. Heavier, weaker, slower. Essentially another 029. Essentially in my opinion made to compete with the Husky 55 rancher, another homeowner POS.

 

[Lawn Masters]

Not to get off topic, but I've never heard a bad thing about the Husky 55 models in fact I've only heard people call them the toughest homeowner saw out there.

 

[DirtTroll]

Originally posted by oldsaw-addict
Not to get off topic, but I've never heard a bad thing about the Husky 55 models in fact I've only heard people call them the toughest homeowner saw out there.

So, what's your point. It's still a Homeowner saw. Essentially a wild thing with better chain and a little more power.

 

[rahtreelimbs]

While the Husky 55 is a non-pro saw, it is still a solid reliable saw for the money!!!

 

[Wolfcsm]

It may seem funny, but not everyone needs to pay for a saw that will be the BEST - the longest lasting, the most power, the lightest, COSTING THE MOST. For most homeowners and occasional users a "homeowner" saw is more than fine for all but the heaviest cutting jobs.

Both of the smaller saws I have are great for the majority of the cutting I do. I will admit that the MS310 is a bit heavy, after six or eight hours of cutting. But, it can cut through anything to twice the legnth of the 18 inch bar I have on it. I even use it to rip rounds that are too big for me to lift whole. Works great there, in the hardest of OAK, also.

My Husky 345 is wounderful! I have a 16 inch bar on it and can cut anything I out it into.

A "homeowner" saw that is kept properly sharp can and will do the job origionally described in this thread - and probably will not cost what a "professional" saw will. Might not last into the next century, but then who will.

"professional" saws are great ( I really want to justify buying a MS260 PRO). My MS 660 has the power to cut into the occasional three or four foot thick tree I get to work on. There is a place for "professional" saws, but not everyone needs or wants them.

In fact, when I go out this weekend to cut several trees at one of my coworkers homes, into firewood, it will be the Husky and the MS310 I take to do the job.


Hal

 

[geofore]

pick a saw

I'm with Hal on not everyone needs or should have top of the line, light, lots of hp, expensive saws. The homeowner and occasional user rarely read the instructions or heed the warnings, (May cause severe or fatal injury) They don't use a saw often enough to know how to maintain it let alone run it to it's full potential nor do they understand how fast things can go wrong when cutting trees. The MS260 is a good saw to have, get to know your saw. It can be your friend or it can take a hand or leg in the blink of an eye if you're not paying attention. You need more than just a saw, you need PPE to go with it, ear protection, eye protection, chaps, gloves and a hat (hard) to go with the saw. Don't forget to get some rope and wedges, not every tree is going to want to fall where you want it to go. Get the saw but get the safety equipment to go with it for your own protection and use it. Time to get off the soap box.

 

[Marky Mark]

GEOFORE 'm with Hal on not everyone needs or should have top of the line, light, lots of hp, expensive saws. The homeowner and occasional user rarely read the instructions or heed the warnings, (May cause severe or fatal injury) They don't use a saw often enough to know how to maintain it let alone run it to it's full potential nor do they understand how fast things can go wrong when cutting trees. Time to get off the soap box.

Geo let me try to understand this if a home owner buys a cheaper saw they are safer. Does a cheaper saw rev slower, trees must fall differently with a less exspensive saw. I would think it might be better if you buy a saw that you can afford instead of being cheap and stingy on an underpowered club.

 

[ShawnK]

I appreciate the advice from those that have replied. I can assure you that the safety equipment (chaps, helmet, hearing protection--the works) will be accompanying me out the door when I buy the saw. I'm one of the only "geeks" in the neighborhood that wears long pants, gloves and eye protection when I run my trimmer.

I don't want to say that money isn't a factor in my saw decision, but I don't mind putting out extra dollars for a better performing saw--even if I won't be using it everyday. Too often I've been one of those guys who tries to save a few bucks by buying the lesser model and then I end up kicking myself in the a$$ for not paying a little extra in the first place. I end up eventually selling the cheaper one--losing my butt in the process--and buying the one I wanted to begin with.

That being said, I'm pretty well sold on the MS 260. My concern is that parts and service will continue to be available for the MS 260 if Stihl is phasing them out for the 270/280 design. Anyone out there with the older model Stihls have any problems in that arena?

 

[Crofter]

Even if they did retire making the 260, parts would be available for a lot of years and when they start to get scarce, pick up a parts saw. Does the model you are looking at have the fully adjustable carb? That would be a plus over one with the fixed high speed jet!

Frank

 

[cbfarmall]

Parts availability

Seems to me that Stihls, old and new, are the easiest to get parts for. I can still go to my dealer and get stuff for 031s and 045s, neither of which has been made for over 20 years. And the 090. That design is 40 years young, and parts are still readily available.

Don't worry about your 260, tons of those around. Parts will be there for a long, long time.

 

[ShawnK]

I'm pretty sure the new MS 260--I'll probably opt for the pro--has the fixed carb. I'll have to ask the dealer. If not, can a new one be retro-fit, and where could you find such a beast?

 

[geofore]

marky

No to buying the cheaper saws. You want a saw to practice with for $100-$150, they are out there and disposable. Every saw I've owned since 1974 has been modified to some extent. This guy is fine with any of the saws he spoke of but I would go with the MS260. Cheaper saws have low kickback bars and low kickback chain. I understand they are sending out pro saws with the same if you don't ask for something different. Does a cheaper saw rev slower than my saws? Yes, it takes them longer to come up to speed and they can't hold the rpm's in the cut. Is a new guy safer with a stock saw? No, he will make the same mistakes with any saw he owns until he learns how to use it. He will make the mistakes faster with a faster saw. He is safer with a sharp chain and well maintained saw, wearing his PPE.

Hand off one of your modded saws to a guy that is not well versed in handling a saw and see what happens. He is through the wood before he knows what happened. He is wildly waving the saw around at full throttle too surprised to let off the trigger and heading for his leg with it. Missed his leg and hit the dirt for a bit of trenching. Been there, seen it happen. I had one idiot landscraper pick up one of my saws, start it and attack a maple tree. After I told him," DO NOT TOUCH MY SAWS!" I'll come back tomorrow and take down the maple. He normally cut brush and fed chippers. He was going to cut a notch but went through the tree in one cut, it slid off and broke his ankle.

 

[Korn]

MS 260

I was at the local dealer today to try to purchase an adjustable carb for my 026 pro, and was told that the WT-426 carb was not available? Has anybody heard this one before?

 

[HappyHack]

I would suggest the standard MS260 not the pro model. Save a few bucks and buy some Chaps.

I'm not sure if they make the MS 260 with an ajustable High and Low Carb or the Fixed High Speed Jet Carb. Maybe some one on the site can shed some light on it. The fully adjustable Carb is the one to get, if they make it. I have the hight speed fixed jet carb on my 026, and it does seem to scream too much at WOT.


The only difference between the two is Pro model had an adjustable oiler and a decompression valve. The regular MS 260 oiler pumps out plenty of oil! Also, have your dealer install an elasto-start pull grip. This will help out a great deal when starting the saw. It makes a big difference ,and I don't think you need a decompression valve on a 50cc class saw.

I would get it with a 18" bar, if it's your only saw, and make sure you get the yellow-link Semi-Chisel or Full Chisel chain, if you have some experience with a saw. Otherwise stick with the saftey chain until you get your feet wet.

Also, the stihl 025 is a good value as well, but I have never used one. It gets good reviews on this site for an "occasional user"saw. Demo a few at the dealer, and see what you like.

Good luck.

 

[wiley_p]

How does the Husky 55 work when it is -50 farenheit?

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

Who cares? I won't be out there trying to cut at -55F!

 

[bwalker]

When the 260 does get phased out it will be replaced by a freshly designed pro saw. The ms270/280 is not this saw.

 

[Marky Mark]

I had some time this weekend to fool with my 026 Artic. 16" bar with carlton 3/8th square ground. The 280 will out cut it all day long. The 280 doesn't have the best air filter setup. But with a Dan Henry muffler and Ed helping me tune it over the phone the saw smokes.

You should have seen Stihlman036 drooling over the artic. But then again he walked away with a better saw.

 

[bwalker]

Mark, Is the arctic stock? If so mod the muffler and choke and report back how it does.