MS 880 meets DCHotsaws

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Ah gotcha. Was so light colored I couldn't see the rest of the tooth got it! So what is the advantage of moving the position of the tip of the tooth and widening the gap between the raker and the tooth?

think of the cutters as a bunch of little wood chisels ,if you put a guard in front of the chisel (raker) you will have a smaller slice off the wood ,move the wood chisel out in the open ,away from the guard ,you will get a bigger slice off the wood ,i ground my rakers half off once ,that chain threw huge chips ,but chain was super grabby,what dennis did looks like sort of what i did getting the chisel doing more work but keeping the chain not grabby keeping the whole raker,hopefully i worded that right
 
think of the cutters as a bunch of little wood chisels ,if you put a guard in front of the chisel (raker) you will have a smaller slice off the wood ,move the wood chisel out in the open ,away from the guard ,you will get a bigger slice off the wood ,i ground my rakers half off once ,that chain threw huge chips ,but chain was super grabby,what dennis did looks like sort of what i did getting the chisel doing more work but keeping the chain not grabby keeping the whole raker,hopefully i worded that right

What I was thinkin. I know lowering the rakers make it grabby, what you just described makes sense. What about the tip modification?
 
The stoning on the outside of the tooth is to make it smoother and cut the same width. I bet that chain is the top 1% of fast chains out there.
 
What I was thinkin. I know lowering the rakers make it grabby, what you just described makes sense. What about the tip modification?

the tip mod is to move the outside corner that starts the cutting out of the way of the raker ,he builds race saws ,this is not a chain for everyday use unless you have a lot of time on your hands
 
Setting up the tip change.....holes drilled and ready for a grinding.

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Why not use a stihl 13 tooth tip instead of that NLA 12 tooth Oregon tip?

No machining......Much easier to do......and......remember, I have a bunch of those tips. The best application would be use a roller nose, that way you could run 404 or 3/8's.
 
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No machining......Much easier to do......and......remember, I have a bunch of those tips. The best application would be use a roller nose, that way you could run 404 or 3/8's.

I guess that way you can keep the recipient of that bar under your wing and stuck in old times.
 
Thanks Rick, that was Carl Bishoff running the first 250 I built for myself back in about 1995. Sold it to him and he's still winning races with it.
 
OK......here's the choice my client has.......[42" 0.63 404 Stihl sprocket tip bar].....[42" 0.63 Oregon roller nose.....can run 404 or 3/8's].....[44" Carlton 0.63 3/8's Oregon sprocket tip bar]

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OK......here's the choice my client has.......[42" 0.63 404 Stihl sprocket tip bar].....[42" 0.63 Oregon roller nose.....can run 404 or 3/8's].....[44" Carlton 0.63 3/8's Oregon sprocket tip bar]

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Your client (sounds professional) has a few good choices to pick from.
 

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