Ms460 tuning

[Gjt1980]

I am going to start fresh today turn them both all the way in and back them out how much?

 

[blsnelling]

1 1/8 on both needles. You will need to fine tune from there.

 

[Naked Arborist]

I would strongly advise against tuning the high setting on an MS460 by ear... Running WOT over 13,500rpm and you are going to fry that thing in a heart beat..

Tachometer's are a cheap investment for a $1000 saw.

LMFAO! Remove your foot from your mouth, put your tac away and pay attention!

 

[cicho69]

My MS460 had labeled 1/4 turn on the "L" and 3/4 turn on the "H". I did a muff mod and the new settings were 1/2 turn on "L" and 1-1/8 turn on "H". 2700 rpm at idle.

 

[Gjt1980]

I have tuned many 2 stroke bikes and quads after putting exhausts, big bore kits and so on.
I am not new at tuning them but i have not done much with the smaller power equipment. Just looking for someone with a 460 with muff mod only to tell me what theres is set at i know mine will be different but should be in the ball park

 

[Gjt1980]

When i pulled the carb limiters i cut the tabs of and put them back in should i have just left them out?

 

[sefh3]

When i pulled the carb limiters i cut the tabs of and put them back in should i have just left them out?

It doesn't make a difference if they are in or out with the tabs cut. Unless you striped the threads on the cap.

 

[blsnelling]

You want to re-install them. They make it easier to get your screwdriver on the needle, and they also help keep the needle from moving.

 

[blsnelling]

My MS460 had labeled 1/4 turn on the "L" and 3/4 turn on the "H".

That's only applicable if the limiters are still in place with their factory setting. With the limiters in place, you cannot close the needle all the way. So your needles are actually open more than that.

 

[user 64030]

... Just looking for someone with a 460 with muff mod only to tell me what theirs is set at i know mine will be different but should be in the ball park

The problem is no two muff modded saws will tune the same, not only does altitude and humidity play a role, also how much did you open the muffler and how? Did you open the factory opening a little, a lot, did you add a second opening? If you have an opening that is 1" and mine is 3/4" (for example) your saw is going to flow more, thus it will need more turns on the L & H needles...

If you leave the stock opening alone, and add a factory dual port cover and both are running screens, or not running screens, you can begin to compare notes w/ another user w/ the same muff mods. If you have DIY muff mod as most here do, you can follow the suggestions already made (blsnelling advised 1 1/8 as a start and I think that is good) to get you in the ballpark, then fine tune.

Heck if you live/cut near the hills and tune at one elevation you will be off tune at another 2-stroke carbs are picky... that's why I like the M-tronic carbs.


dw

 

[ConcordGarden]

On a new saw or any saw that has not been modded a tach is good. Once the muffler has been modded, the tach will get you close but not exact.

I would say 9 out of 10 people that own a MS460 haven't modified it in our neck of the woods...

To the OP...Either your saw is tuned WAY rich, or there's something significantly wrong with it, as in a MAJOR air leak, or a malfunctioning carb.

I sell them

That is not true at all.

Do explain.

well thats BS start rich and lean it out bit by bit untill it is not 4 stroking any more unloaded in the cut will only take 2 seconds to see and rich'en it up tad so it 4 strokes unloaded job done and only ran lean for 2 seconds easy

I would hate to lead someone to believe that they can tune their saw by ear. It's just not possible. I do it all day long with smaller saws but the recipe for error is much easier on the larger saws. Difference between 13,500 and 14,000 will be the difference in plastic start melting.

Just a suggestion that most people aren't going to have this ability.

LMFAO! Remove your foot from your mouth, put your tac away and pay attention!

This isn't our first rodeo.. Been doing this for a year or two now....

 

[cutforfun]

I feel left out why didn't you have a response to me:msp_biggrin:. I adjust all my saws be ear

 

[ConcordGarden]

I feel left out why didn't you have a response to me:msp_biggrin:. I adjust all my saws be ear

There was a wealth of replys I didn't expect...

(I missed some..)

haha..

I adjust a lot of them by ear with the exception of the big ones just to cover my own a$$...

 

[user 64030]

Well I always though the manufactures max RPM was a "redline" to prevent part failure to to inertia, but I see/read of several people on here turning saws way past those numbers, and understand the RMP listed to be a tuning RPM not a physical limitation of the crank/rod/piston.

I come from hot rodding American V8s and there you dare not going over 6K w/out forged piston, rods, and cranks. Stock cast parts tend to come aprta after that, but we are talking a lot more kinetic energy stored in that heavy piston at TDC when it stops and starts back down....

I will leave this debate to the experts but I have seen enough to know around here you tune by ear and tach it just to see where it is tuned.

dw

 

[blsnelling]

I would say 9 out of 10 people that own a MS460 haven't modified it in our neck of the woods...




I sell them



Do explain.



I would hate to lead someone to believe that they can tune their saw by ear. It's just not possible. I do it all day long with smaller saws but the recipe for error is much easier on the larger saws. Difference between 13,500 and 14,000 will be the difference in plastic start melting.

Just a suggestion that most people aren't going to have this ability.



This isn't our first rodeo.. Been doing this for a year or two now....

There's a lot more to tuning saws than just grabbing a tach and setting it to some RPM. A trained ear results in a much better tune than just relying on a tach. Stihl's not going to train you how to do this though. It's a learned thing. You can throw your factory RPM specs right out the window as soon as a saw is modded. I have saws that turn well north of 15K.

 

[Joe Kidd]

I would hate to lead someone to believe that they can tune their saw by ear. It's just not possible.

Not true! For example try tuning a MS201...and you can throw that tach out the window.

 

[user 64030]

Not true! For example try tuning a MS201...and you can throw that tach out the window.

Or an M-tronic oh wait never mind....

Well I was going for how a tach don't work on those but you don't need no stinking tuning on them saws


dw

 

[Joe Kidd]

Or an M-tronic oh wait never mind....

Well I was going for how a tach don't work on those but you don't need no stinking tuning on them saws


dw

It's not M-tronic. Tach will work up to about 12.9k and the limiter will drive the tach back to zero. This one definitely needs wood to tune. This saw will reset my tach(Fast-Tach) after hitting the limiter.

 

[ConcordGarden]

Or an M-tronic oh wait never mind....

Well I was going for how a tach don't work on those but you don't need no stinking tuning on them saws


dw

Right Out of the Service Manual for the MS201

Warm up the engine before making
adjustments. Then run engine for 20
seconds at idle speed.
Do not make any adjustments
during this period – the ignition
system maps the idle speed data.
Adjust idle speed with a tachometer.
Adjust specified engine speeds
within a tolerance of ± 200 rpm.
1. Adjust engine speed with
idle speed screw (LA)
to 2800 rpm.
2. Turn the low speed screw (L)
counterclockwise or clockwise
to obtain maximum engine
speed.
If this speed is higher than
3,300 rpm, abort the procedure and
start again with step 1.
3. Use the idle speed screw (LA)
to set the engine speed again
to 3,300 rpm.
4. Turn the low speed screw (L)
counterclockwise to set
engine speed to 2,800 rpm
5. Use the idle speed screw (LA)
to set engine speed to
3,000 rpm.
6. Use the high speed screw (H)
to set engine speed to
14,000 rpm – starting from
the basic setting.
Do not make any leaner after
maximum engine speed is reached
– the ignition module limits
maximum engine speed to
about 14,000 rpm.
The maximum permissible engine
speed cannot be increased by
making the mixture any leaner – an
overlean mixture increases the risk
of engine damage.

 

[ConcordGarden]

Straight From Stihl Tech..

"Even though the book says to stop at 14,000 rpm. The saw will
probably never adjust past 13,200 rpm. So once you get to its highest
rpm stop! DO NOT set it any leaner"