Thicker skin. You need it.
I'm positive you'll be OK. Don't take the internet so seriously.
Sucks you had to buy a **** jug. Thanks for the heads up.
My random new criteria for buying cheap bar oil
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I'm positive you'll be OK. Don't take the internet so seriously.
Sucks you had to buy a **** jug. Thanks for the heads up.
I bought a Gravely tractor back in 2016,, this is it, before I unloaded it from the trailer,,
The FIRST thing I did was drain the oil, both engine, and transmission,, it had been setting a LONG time.
Well, the oil that came out looked like the oil out of a Mobil 1 jug that had just been purchased at Walmart!!
After a little tinkering, I got it started, and the new oil I installed was dirty in about 5 minutes.
All the dirt (I mean ALL!!) had settled out of the oil. Sure, the acids etc did not settle out,, but, that old oil was clean.
That oil would have been perfect for chain oil.
Now I have several jugs of drained oil setting in a shed, as an experiment,, to see how long of setting is required to clean that oil.
I saw this big contraption at an antique store in Pennsylvania. after looking at it a while, I figured out what it was.
Back in the 1930's, the engine oil was non-detergent,, the dirt would settle out of the oil FAST..
The contraption was about as big as a 275 gallon heating oil tank.
The farmer would drain the oil out of his equipment, then place it in this tank,, there were a number of compartments.
After putting the drained oil in one compartment, he would use the oil that had been setting the longest, and refill the engine.
The tractors did not even have air filters, in many cases,, the engine oil ended up capturing the dirt.
There was ALWAYS LOTS of dirt to settle out.
Now, with detergent oil, the dirt will stay in suspension much longer,,
BUT, given time,, most of the dirt will settle back out,, and the oil will be clean enough for bar/chain lube.
I almost hate to mention the other method of cleaning oil. I might get shot,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Anyways,,
back in 1966, there was a gas station near my home in Pittsburgh,
The guy had a contraption in the back room,,
He would drop 6 or 8 rolls of toilet paper in a long tube.
Then, used oil was added to a tank at the top. Then over a LONG time, the oil would filter through the TP,,
Clean looking oil came out the bottom,, He would "sell" the cleaned oil as "bulk oil" which was dispensed with a clear glass funnel top bottle.
I think he made a lot of profit off of the used oil.
Many cars burned/leaked lots of oil,, Why spend a lot of $$$ on oil that will be out of the engine in 200 or so miles?
If you "waste" TP cleaning oil,, don't tell them it was my idea,,, it is hard enough gettin' TP to use as TP!! LOL!!
So, maybe used oil does not have to be horrible (well, except diesel oil, I doubt that anything will help that engine oil)
The FIRST thing I did was drain the oil, both engine, and transmission,, it had been setting a LONG time.
Well, the oil that came out looked like the oil out of a Mobil 1 jug that had just been purchased at Walmart!!
After a little tinkering, I got it started, and the new oil I installed was dirty in about 5 minutes.
All the dirt (I mean ALL!!) had settled out of the oil. Sure, the acids etc did not settle out,, but, that old oil was clean.
That oil would have been perfect for chain oil.
Now I have several jugs of drained oil setting in a shed, as an experiment,, to see how long of setting is required to clean that oil.
I saw this big contraption at an antique store in Pennsylvania. after looking at it a while, I figured out what it was.
Back in the 1930's, the engine oil was non-detergent,, the dirt would settle out of the oil FAST..
The contraption was about as big as a 275 gallon heating oil tank.
The farmer would drain the oil out of his equipment, then place it in this tank,, there were a number of compartments.
After putting the drained oil in one compartment, he would use the oil that had been setting the longest, and refill the engine.
The tractors did not even have air filters, in many cases,, the engine oil ended up capturing the dirt.
There was ALWAYS LOTS of dirt to settle out.
Now, with detergent oil, the dirt will stay in suspension much longer,,
BUT, given time,, most of the dirt will settle back out,, and the oil will be clean enough for bar/chain lube.
I almost hate to mention the other method of cleaning oil. I might get shot,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Anyways,,
back in 1966, there was a gas station near my home in Pittsburgh,
The guy had a contraption in the back room,,
He would drop 6 or 8 rolls of toilet paper in a long tube.
Then, used oil was added to a tank at the top. Then over a LONG time, the oil would filter through the TP,,
Clean looking oil came out the bottom,, He would "sell" the cleaned oil as "bulk oil" which was dispensed with a clear glass funnel top bottle.
I think he made a lot of profit off of the used oil.
Many cars burned/leaked lots of oil,, Why spend a lot of $$$ on oil that will be out of the engine in 200 or so miles?
If you "waste" TP cleaning oil,, don't tell them it was my idea,,, it is hard enough gettin' TP to use as TP!! LOL!!
So, maybe used oil does not have to be horrible (well, except diesel oil, I doubt that anything will help that engine oil)
Trouble is alot of these bars oil containers are cheap, the plastic is thin and i have had the tinyiest puncture cause a massive messy leak. Most saw guys there's snarpnstuff everywhere to puncture those cheap containers oil comes in and caps are cheap I usually break a gallon down into quarts into better bottles. I was thinking those 1qt metal ethanol free gas bottles would work great for bar oil. When I mix gas I fill those up for all my saws, makes it easy to fill saws and they fit in all my saw cases. Never tried the oil/gas buddy container.
Better remove the label, lest someone drink it!
I do. Kinda looks like the grape flavor or cherry with the echo oil.
I tried the Trufuel bottles for bar oil. Slightest dent in the sealing surface on the rim of the bottle and they puke oil all over. Not recommended.
Thanks for that info. Good to know! My cans are either trufuel or echo red armor, both probly made at the same factory
I carry a quart jug (gear oil type) full of bar oil and a gallon jug of mix together in a 5 gal. pail along with a couple of plastic wedges when heading into the woods or going to my milling table. Once I've used all of that up, it's usually time for lunch or time to unload the trailer. Either way I'm headed back to the shop to refill what needs to be filled, oil, mix, belly or all of the above.
I must be lucky. I've been using cheap bar oil for years and never had a issue.
Stihl a grasshopper
ArboristSite Operative
The way I make sure that this doesn't tip over is by keeping enough junk in the bed of my truck that it cant... Sometimes I think I need to get my life together...
When the joke hits so close to home. Yep. I know the feeling.
Only one gas can ever to be used for saws. Eliminates any chances of straight gassing too.
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The only way I know to eliminate straight gassing is to never loan or let someone use your saw. Cool can, what's the brand? Looks possibly like a Midwest brand can?
Only one gas can ever to be used for saws. Eliminates any chances of straight gassing too.
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Scepter (Mine is older- a Wedco- almost identical but with a vent)
Available at almost any hardware store in Canada
I put a flow control spout on mine so I just tip, trigger and fill. No cap to remove or replace and stays sealed
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