Need Help With Milling Saw

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Which saw is best for milling?


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PB

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I am going to be buying a saw for milling later this fall or next spring. I won't be doing a lot of milling but want a good saw at a reasonable price. Here is what I am looking at, Solo 694, Efco 981, Jonsered 2186.

I am leaning heavily towards the Solo. From what I have read is that it is the same saw as the Dolmar 9010 and is a reliable saw. I love Jonsered but for the cost, I can get a bigger saw for less money. The Solo is running right about $800 with a 20" bar. The Efco and JRed are a bit more than that but lower displacement. The Efco upside is the 5 year warranty, but lose on displacement. Any thoughts?

I have thought about used, but I want a saw that will run when I need it too. The Stihl 660 and larger Husky's are out due to cost. If I can find a good used saw I will go that route, but prefer a new one. Thanks in advance.
 
Not familiar with these saws. I use my 066. But a 20" bar? What type of mill you going to buy?

I know the 066 has a great reputation, but would like to avoid the sticker shock. I wouldn't be using a 20" bar I don't think, just the price he quoted me with that bar.

I was looking at the Jober (Jobber?) J100. Any thoughts on those? Not too familiar with mills right now, but would like a stationary one. Just in the beginning stages of research. Any suggestions?

Or something like the Jonsered mill.
 
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Hey PB, cost shouldn't be a factor if your BIL is paying for the saw! :monkey: LOL!

Rather than pay full price for a new saw, I bought a used 066. It had a new 25" bar & chain, new piston and cylinder, and overall was in excellent shape. Its pretty heavy, and any of the larger displacement saws will be, so will only get occasional useage other than on the mill.

Keep your eyes open for a good to great deal. There was a lightly used MS660 in the Tradin Post for bargain price a few weeks back. There is a Dolmar 7900 on there now along with a Jonsered 2171.

My first go with the Alaskan Mill was with a Husqvarna 272XP and 28" bar running 72LGX. The 066 probably would have done better, but the 272 did the deed.

What kind of wood? Size of wood? green or dry? it all matters:popcorn:
 
Hey PB, cost shouldn't be a factor if your BIL is paying for the saw! :monkey: LOL!

Rather than pay full price for a new saw, I bought a used 066. It had a new 25" bar & chain, new piston and cylinder, and overall was in excellent shape. Its pretty heavy, and any of the larger displacement saws will be, so will only get occasional useage other than on the mill.

Keep your eyes open for a good to great deal. There was a lightly used MS660 in the Tradin Post for bargain price a few weeks back. There is a Dolmar 7900 on there now along with a Jonsered 2171.

My first go with the Alaskan Mill was with a Husqvarna 272XP and 28" bar running 72LGX. The 066 probably would have done better, but the 272 did the deed.

What kind of wood? Size of wood? green or dry? it all matters:popcorn:

LOL. I wish that would be the case with my BIL, but I am not pushing it right now. I have a 2171, but am afraid that it would not be enough. I will be milling mostly green hardwood; sugar maple, red oak, ash (white, green, black), cherry, and the occasional walnut. If I bring it up to Maine, it will be all softwood. I think the biggest logs I would mill would be around the 20" range, maybe a little bigger.
 
I started out using a stihl 044. It cut boards. I took alittle longer but not excessively. Keep the chain sharp and have the auxillary oiler and you would be set.

How about a stihl 460. Again sticker shock but it will get the job done.

When I cut boards I am always rocking the saw back and forth so I am only cutting say 10" of wood at a time.

Chris
 
I use 066 for milling, has work well for many, many bf of lumber. Only complaint is the air filtering. Husky does a better job of keeping the dust off the filter. With a used 395 though make sure it's newer one with side tensioner, the front tensioner is a PITA esp when the saw is on a mill.

Solos seem built well, but the soft mounts might be a weak point for hefting a mill around on the end of the bar. Also narrow piston skirt will be a wear point esp under heavy milling loads.
 
Isn't the Solo in the same size range as those two options? I know milling is hard on a saw, and finding a used 066 or 395 that hasn't been worked hard is going to be tough.

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=SL+694&catID=45

I bought my 066, newer model with translucent fuel tank, with new P&C, new B&C for $550 to my door. New is close to $1100 for a 660 or $1000 or a bit less for a 395XP. There are lots of 066s and 660s out there, and Bailey's has big bore P&C kits cheap! Likewise, there are lots of other parts for 066s since the 660 is still a current product. As for the air filtration, adding something like a K&N prefilter to the 066/660 filter would help. A K&N or Unifilter with prefilter sock might also be adaptable for milling.
 
PB, The Solo is the exact same saw as the Dolmar 9010 and would make you a pretty good miller. For the money it's a great choice for a 90cc saw. Not sure what type of milling you are planning, lumber out of softwoods or hardwoods for furniture or some of both? At any rate for occasional milling it's great buy and has strong torque for it's size. I've been looking at one myself. :cheers:
 
PB, The Solo is the exact same saw as the Dolmar 9010 and would make you a pretty good miller. For the money it's a great choice for a 90cc saw. Not sure what type of milling you are planning, lumber out of softwoods or hardwoods for furniture or some of both? At any rate for occasional milling it's great buy and has strong torque for it's size. I've been looking at one myself. :cheers:

Thanks. I was looking at them in Faulkner's last week and were much cheaper than their Dolmar counterparts.

For milling it will be mostly hardwood for furniture and maybe some hemlock for building sheds. :cheers:
 
I seem to remember a certain Jred head giving me heck for my 7900 purchase:) What cant find a nice 2094 or 2095?lol maybe if you get that 80 it would make a good milling saw?But I have to say for me the 7900 was dirt cheap compared to buying the 2171,sometimes you just have to go with price and performance.
P.S I am still going to get me a 2171!! and as of now have no use for a milling saw but if I did I would use the big Mac.
 
Get the biggest you can afford, used is always a good option, just check it out first. I've been using a Husky 394xp for the last few years which I picked up used, its been working great!!
 
PB

What the chicken fried rice are you doing buddy.

20" mill? wtf man

you know you're going to get a hold on that 20" mill and take one look, the say "what the hell was I thinking, thats far too small"

20"... really????

the biggest decision you need to make, is inboard / outboard clutch IMO. OB is a PITA for chain / sproket changes, and IB heats up like a mofo. i could melt solder on the side cover of the 066 after a days milling, so seals and clutch did not last long. hence now on 395 as the norm.

20"... really?

go for a bigger mill and a 395. the day you come across that bigger bit of wood that needs the extra power, is the day the mill / saw pays for itself.

i wouldnt even bother turning up to a log thats 20" unless it's kauri / totara / rimu. even then id need to be in a GOOD mood



come on mate, upgrade. you know im right


stk
 
this is close to the mill i use (strictly hobby). http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=46776&catID=198
i was running a 066 on it until 4 months ago when the rod decided to turn into itty bitty pieces. i was going to get a 660 to replace it but decided on trying other saws out. glad i did.
went over to All Weathers and tried out the solo 694, went up the road to Thousand Islands, tried the new 660. needless to say i ended up with the
694. they were about the same price (solo was 40 bucks more). it is a little heavier feeling when your carrying it, but not much, it deff. "feels" stronger than my old 066 ever did, doesn't get near as warm, but the 694 likes the fuel.
go for the solo 694, you won't have buyers remorse. if you don't like it i'll grab it from you, i really like this saw:cheers:
 
I seem to remember a certain Jred head giving me heck for my 7900 purchase:) What cant find a nice 2094 or 2095?lol maybe if you get that 80 it would make a good milling saw?But I have to say for me the 7900 was dirt cheap compared to buying the 2171,sometimes you just have to go with price and performance.
P.S I am still going to get me a 2171!! and as of now have no use for a milling saw but if I did I would use the big Mac.

HAHAHA! I guess I had that coming. :)

Get the biggest you can afford, used is always a good option, just check it out first. I've been using a Husky 394xp for the last few years which I picked up used, its been working great!!

The Solo is quite a bit less expensive than any other Stihl or Husky option.


PB

What the chicken fried rice are you doing buddy.

20" mill? wtf man

you know you're going to get a hold on that 20" mill and take one look, the say "what the hell was I thinking, thats far too small"

20"... really????

the biggest decision you need to make, is inboard / outboard clutch IMO. OB is a PITA for chain / sproket changes, and IB heats up like a mofo. i could melt solder on the side cover of the 066 after a days milling, so seals and clutch did not last long. hence now on 395 as the norm.

20"... really?

go for a bigger mill and a 395. the day you come across that bigger bit of wood that needs the extra power, is the day the mill / saw pays for itself.

i wouldnt even bother turning up to a log thats 20" unless it's kauri / totara / rimu. even then id need to be in a GOOD mood



come on mate, upgrade. you know im right


stk

:D I don't anticipate milling logs that are too big. The Jobber will do logs up to 20" and some of the others will do logs up to 30". I am going to check some out this weekend at the fair. :cheers:

this is close to the mill i use (strictly hobby). http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=46776&catID=198
i was running a 066 on it until 4 months ago when the rod decided to turn into itty bitty pieces. i was going to get a 660 to replace it but decided on trying other saws out. glad i did.
went over to All Weathers and tried out the solo 694, went up the road to Thousand Islands, tried the new 660. needless to say i ended up with the
694. they were about the same price (solo was 40 bucks more). it is a little heavier feeling when your carrying it, but not much, it deff. "feels" stronger than my old 066 ever did, doesn't get near as warm, but the 694 likes the fuel.
go for the solo 694, you won't have buyers remorse. if you don't like it i'll grab it from you, i really like this saw:cheers:

I was looking at the Alaska mill, but I thought I might want a more stationary unit. I have a lot more thinking/planning to do. Thanks for the input on the saw, here in Maine the price difference is substantial. :)
 
:D I don't anticipate milling logs that are too big. The Jobber will do logs up to 20" and some of the others will do logs up to 30". I am going to check some out this weekend at the fair. :cheers:

I was looking at the Alaska mill, but I thought I might want a more stationary unit. I have a lot more thinking/planning to do. Thanks for the input on the saw, here in Maine the price difference is substantial. :)

PB,
There are several mills that I like the looks of, but not the price. The Logosol looks like a winner(chainsaw mill) as does the larger Norwood(bandmill) that Northern Tool catalogs.

I went the Granberg Alaskan route to start with, and am happy with the initial results. It certainly isn't the fastest, but is truly portable, and easy enough to set up in a remote site. I like the fact that both ends of the bar are captive and controlled. My first cuts were on a hemlock top that had blown down and was going to be trashed. It ended up a 9'9" long 10.5"x10.5" beam that is smooth, straight, and square. I was thrilled.

Like you, I hadn't anticipated cutting truly big wood, but would suggest a 30" Alaskan over the 24". Even the 24" will require a 28" bar for a maximum 21.5" possible cut width unless you're using a hardnose bar. With a 30" mill you'll need at least 34" of bar for a 27.5" maximum wide cut.

Other things that you need to keep in mind are the irregular shapes of logs that will eat up you maximum width in a hurry, and that for a given diameter, 70% is a realistic yield for a square cant. To deal with the branch stubs, and make the most out of a smaller width mill, consider one of the "Beam Machine" or "Lumber Maker" type clamp-on devices to rough cut the sides after you've made an initial top cut, or else plan on rolling the log 90* for each cut. Regardless, milling is far more satisfying than just cutting firewood.

As for choice of saw, my initial try was with a 272XP. I left the 066 sit that one out as a real test of the 272. My 066 has since been enhanced with a big bore kit, so should be more than able to get the job done. My thanks go out to Eric Ritchey for taking the time to install the kit for me, and point out some potential problems that the previous mechanic had left.

Unless you go the Ripsaw route, you'll need serious displacement, or at least more power than my 272XP has to offer.
 

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