New climber advice needed

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id rethink BEEline for a open hitch ,i took my 10mm beline that i used for a distel and tried a blakes and jesus b christ it locked tighter than f.knox

So it wouldn't run? To much grip? Dang, I thought I was on to something good....

I'm looking for something I can use on my lines at work AND be able to use on my personal lines to keep from burning the ends of them up. I am comfortable with the Blakes and all.... Maybe a switch in my setup completely.... ???
 
With traditional friction hitches I have had better results using the same sized diameter splitail as my climbing line. And it doesn't really have to be anything fancy. If you have some old climbing line around it would work great and be free.
 
With traditional friction hitches I have had better results using the same sized diameter splitail as my climbing line. And it doesn't really have to be anything fancy. If you have some old climbing line around it would work great and be free.

Thanks for the information. I was really liking the idea of not having as many knots tied.... I was going to terminate my climbing line to a locking rope snap on the D's and use a carabiner through the same D's to attach the single-eye to. Would this work ok like that? What is your setup like?
 
I haven't climbed with an old school split tail and friction hitch for several years now. I climb on a VT and an 8mm eye to eye prussic these days.
 
Thanks for the information. I was really liking the idea of not having as many knots tied.... I was going to terminate my climbing line to a locking rope snap on the D's and use a carabiner through the same D's to attach the single-eye to. Would this work ok like that? What is your setup like?

You can get a split tail with an eye already in it(in a larger diameter like 13mm), or you could splice your own from some other rope as Tree MD pointed out. I'm using 13mm Hi-Vee on 11.5mm Lava(Tachyon) and it works great.

Something else you may not know, if you add friction to your climbing line, whether via device, or just by running it under your leg, you'll reduce the amount of friction on your hitch making it run smoother, which might allow you to use the smaller cord for your hitch without it locking up.

Something that's freed up my hitch from locking is to add an extra rap to the hitch it's self.
 
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I climbed on this knot for many years; with and without a split tail:

595db998f9ef4c36b9991c633aa21bf8.jpg


I climbed with this system for awhile:

Picture011.jpg


This is what I climb on now:

159575c928c440e2836372effb460e4a.jpg
 
You can get a split tail with an eye already in it(in a larger diameter like 13mm), or you could splice your own from some other rope as Tree MD pointed out. I'm using 13mm Hi-Vee on 11.5mm Lava(Tachyon) and it works great.

Something else you may not know, if you add friction to your climbing line, whether via device, or just by running it under your leg, you'll reduce the amount of friction on your hitch making it run smoother, which might allow you to use the smaller cord for your hitch without it locking up.

Something that's freed up my hitch from locking is to add an extra rap to the hitch it's self.

Thanks for the response . I am going to do some experimenting on my setup which is kinda scary. I will do it low of coarse until I find my system. I just want to use one for my day-job ropes( True Blue) , and relay it over to my own ropes. We solely use the True Blue at work .... so I was thinking I would use the same and use them for rigging when they got some age on them. I am breaking the mold a bit at my work!
 
I climbed on true blue when I was first starting out. A plain old open prussic runs really well with that line. It works fine for light to medium rigging as well. I can't remember the tensil strength but I hung some pretty good sized limbs with it back in the day.
 
I climbed on this knot for many years; with and without a split tail:

595db998f9ef4c36b9991c633aa21bf8.jpg


I climbed with this system for awhile:

Picture011.jpg


This is what I climb on now:

159575c928c440e2836372effb460e4a.jpg

Thank you so much for the pics. I am very interested in the various methods in which you have displayed. This is a whole different ballgame than what we use around here,but I like to learn new things! Thanks again! Nice website you have!
 
I haven't climbed with an old school split tail and friction hitch for several years now. I climb on a VT and an 8mm eye to eye prussic these days.

That's what I use, too.

It just works so nicely, and you don't even need to re-tie it most of the time. Throw the whole setup in the rope bag and keep it ready for the next tree.
 
...
This is what I climb on now:

159575c928c440e2836372effb460e4a.jpg

Just some petty quibbling on my part: That isn't quite a "VT". One leg is consistently wrapped around the other; that makes it a simple "Valdetain". A "VT" crosses over, then under. This supposedly keeps it from being too loose and letting you slide when you shouldn't.

I'm sure that it works pretty close to the same, though.
 
I climbed on true blue when I was first starting out. A plain old open prussic runs really well with that line. It works fine for light to medium rigging as well. I can't remember the tensil strength but I hung some pretty good sized limbs with it back in the day.

I'm sorry if I ask to many questions,but what is the knot in the first pic you posted? the second pic is the single-eyed blakes , correct?

I do light rigging and tags with the True Blue. It is some pretty versatile stuff. I break out the bull rope for Big chunks and such.... If in doubt,break it out... Right

Thanks again for taking the time to help out the "new climber". Your advice is SO much appreciated!
 
That would be a 6 wrap prussic.

The traditional way of tying a prussic is with a circular loop of rope. It is then passed around the climbing line 3 times to make a friction hitch, then clipped with a carabiner to the climber. The original usage for this configuration was in rock climbing. This friction hitch (on a closed loop of rope) holds equally well, no matter whether the load is applied "up" or "down". In this case, he just used a short section of rope, and put a stopper knot on the "tail" to prevent it from untying itself.

This is really the same knot as a "taut-line" except that the two sides of the knot are wrapped in opposite directions around the climbing line. It holds just the same, regarless of which way the wraps are turned. If tied as a taut-line, you might know it as "three over and three under".
 
That's what I use, too.

It just works so nicely, and you don't even need to re-tie it most of the time. Throw the whole setup in the rope bag and keep it ready for the next tree.

Would like to thank you also Pdqdl. This site is a wealth of knowledge! How can I contribute to such a great site? I'm in!!!:msp_thumbup:
 
Learn more, hang out long enough to contribute as well. Lots of opportunities in Arborist 101 and homeowner helper forums.

After a while, you get tired of answering the same old questions. Some guys either get bored with it, or they start picking fights with folks. There is a lot of that going on...
 
I climbed on true blue when I was first starting out. A plain old open prussic runs really well with that line. It works fine for light to medium rigging as well. I can't remember the tensil strength but I hung some pretty good sized limbs with it back in the day.

6,600 lbs according to SherrillTree's climbing line chart.

It says it's 100% polyester, yet it has more elongation than my Tachyon which is polyester/nylon blend. I can't figure out how they get it to do that.
 
unless u are payed by the hour i didnt care for the advanced hitches ...just way to much equip. on saddle ...although they did perform well ,i just didnt really like having such a small hitch to grab

i really like how the BLAZE tied to a 13mm performs these days

experiment low and slow man seriously find what u like and comfy with
 
I would guess that they put a steeper angle on the spiral weave, but I don't really know. When it pulls tight, it still has a good deal of straightening to do.

I'm sure there are different qualities to polyester, too. It might just be as simple as knowing where to buy your polyester.
 
I would guess that they put a steeper angle on the spiral weave, but I don't really know. When it pulls tight, it still has a good deal of straightening to do.

I'm sure there are different qualities to polyester, too. It might just be as simple as knowing where to buy your polyester.

I'm thinking it must have something to do with the weave, but still not 100% sure. I'll keep diggin til I find the answer.
 

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