blis
Addicted to ArboristSite
625 is ~61cc saw while 670 being 66cc saw, both are sturdy and good saws but IMO way too small for that big trees...
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625 is ~61cc saw while 670 being 66cc saw, both are sturdy and good saws but IMO way too small for that big trees...
Erick
Addicted to ArboristSite
Sounds to me like what you need is a 372 or a Stihl 440/441, big enough to handle the larger stuff and light enough to cut all day. If your feeding it a steady diet of 30 to 40 inch trees I would say go with the Stihl 660 or a Husky 385/395 with a 36" bar but these saws are gonna be a lot more then is needed for the 20-24 inch bar category and more weight to carry, not to mention the cost. If you've been getting it done with a 036 I would say you will be more than happy with the extra power of a 044/441 its a pretty good step up from the 036 or you could get the 372 if you just have to buy a Huskyvarny 
It's just my opinion (and we all what those are worth) but if your dealer does not have a 440 and wants to sell you a 441 I would opt up to the MS460 it will be a few more dollars but will be more HP for the same weight as the MS441 and will run a 32 inch bar with skip chain in the type of wood your cutting. Come to think of it the MS460 might be your best choice here for what you say you are doing, a little heavier than what your used to but a ton more power.
It's just my opinion (and we all what those are worth) but if your dealer does not have a 440 and wants to sell you a 441 I would opt up to the MS460 it will be a few more dollars but will be more HP for the same weight as the MS441 and will run a 32 inch bar with skip chain in the type of wood your cutting. Come to think of it the MS460 might be your best choice here for what you say you are doing, a little heavier than what your used to but a ton more power.
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If the 670 is a 670 CHAMP it is probably worth $250-$300 for a nice one. The 625II a little less. Those saws are getting close to being at least 10 years old, so the condition is the key.
But as said before, those are probably a little small for your needs. The 670 would go good with one of the larger choices, if you want to go the two saw route.
Ok, more good info. Now when you're talking about skip chain ,square chain ,safety chain, 3/8 .325 chain, what does all that mean. I'm sure it sounds stupid to you experts but I need a chain I go to the store and buy the one with my saw number on the back usually oregon but I bought some HQ ones for my latest saw. Please explain what I should be looking for.
60cc can do it, but hell, so can 40cc if you're willing to stand there for a while.
If you're going to be in 30"+ wood on a regular basis, and particularly if it is going to be open-grown, multi-branch trees, I'd want something with some power to pull through the twisty grain where the main branches split away from the trunk. Back when EAB first hit here in Michigan, I did dozens of suburban 30"+ ash trees with an MS290/20". It got the job done, but it isn't what one would call "fast."
Assuming that your goal is to have a single saw for most of your work, an all-around machine, I'd aim for something in the 70-80cc range. A saw like this will be capable of running a handy 20" bar for processing smaller trees and big limbs into firewood, and a 28" for the bigger stuff. Husqvarna 372/385, Stihl 440/441/460, Dolmar 7300/7900, these would all be appropriate choices.
A "big" saw would be nice for the huge pieces and for ripping blocks into wedges light enough to move by hand, but it isn't the most efficient tool to tote around for the 12" limbs. But if you were to pair a 90cc+ saw with one of the 60cc Jonsereds you mention, that might make for a good combination. For example, a nice used 066:
If you're going to be in 30"+ wood on a regular basis, and particularly if it is going to be open-grown, multi-branch trees, I'd want something with some power to pull through the twisty grain where the main branches split away from the trunk. Back when EAB first hit here in Michigan, I did dozens of suburban 30"+ ash trees with an MS290/20". It got the job done, but it isn't what one would call "fast."
Assuming that your goal is to have a single saw for most of your work, an all-around machine, I'd aim for something in the 70-80cc range. A saw like this will be capable of running a handy 20" bar for processing smaller trees and big limbs into firewood, and a 28" for the bigger stuff. Husqvarna 372/385, Stihl 440/441/460, Dolmar 7300/7900, these would all be appropriate choices.
A "big" saw would be nice for the huge pieces and for ripping blocks into wedges light enough to move by hand, but it isn't the most efficient tool to tote around for the 12" limbs. But if you were to pair a 90cc+ saw with one of the 60cc Jonsereds you mention, that might make for a good combination. For example, a nice used 066:
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blis
Addicted to ArboristSite
skip chain means chain that has half the amount of cutters compared to normal chain -> less cutters on wood -> less power needed...
.325 and 3/8 are chain pitches, generally .325 is used in saws in 50cc class due to its thinner kerf and shorter links... It requires less power and therefore its favored on smaller saws... 3/8 is probaply the most common chain pitch used in saws under 90cc class...
Square chain refers to square ground chain (also known as full chisel), its harder to sharpen and generally isnt used by homeowners but its the most effective chain type...
safety chain means chain with safety bumpers that reduce kickback but also affect the cutting characteristics of chain (95% of time they cut slower than standard chain)...
Erick
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have to leave for work fellas someone please field the chain question for me. Thanks
Thanks blis, you got it while I was typing.
Thanks blis, you got it while I was typing.
1953greg
ArboristSite Guru
short answer NO
you wil need a 24" bar n chain for those. 20" is bare bare minimum, 24" needed therefore the 372xp is needed for a 24" bar. 365 bare bare minimum.
your job can be done w/ a smaller saw but the 372xp (ms440 in the stihl) w/ 24" b&c is the smallest saw i wood b comfortable with in the 30-40" range. especially since the logs wil b chunked into firewood.
in the husky line choose the 385xp w/ 24" b&c for a bigger smile on your face
in the stihl line choose the ms460 w/ 24" b&c for a bigger smile on your face
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Holy moly, I've just spent the last three hours looking at chainsaws on ebay & now I got all sorts of questions. Is redmax a good saw? G621AVS. How about a jonsered 920 or hq 394xp or are those too big. Suck too much gas? Too heavy. What should I pay for used? Should I buy used? On Ebay? How tight should I run the chain on my saws? Too many questions?
SawTroll
Information Collector
Nope, about 66% - every second tooth are skipped, not replaced by anything........
If you are just learning I would stay away from ebay saws. Unless it is NEW and a confirmed good seller, that wont take your money and run.
You seem to be a candidate for dealer help in your future also, unless you know how to work on your saws.
The guys here are great teachers and can get you through the basics stuff pretty quickly. Cinch your belt up and hold onto the ride.
You seem to be a candidate for dealer help in your future also, unless you know how to work on your saws.
The guys here are great teachers and can get you through the basics stuff pretty quickly. Cinch your belt up and hold onto the ride.
Stihl chains, scroll down for pics of skip, half skip etc.
http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/types.html
Here is oregon chains in pics.
http://www.brownandwiser.com/oregon_cross_ref.html
http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/types.html
Here is oregon chains in pics.
http://www.brownandwiser.com/oregon_cross_ref.html
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1953greg
ArboristSite Guru
there is a used jonsered 2171 w/ 20" b&c for sale in the equipment forum. its equivelent to the husky 372. you wil still need a 24" b&c though. nice to have both
i dont know the seller, moosecountry. perhaps someone else does
http://www.arboristsite.com/pp-classifieds/showproduct.php?product=636&cat=6
i dont know the seller, moosecountry. perhaps someone else does
http://www.arboristsite.com/pp-classifieds/showproduct.php?product=636&cat=6
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If you are just learning I would stay away from ebay saws. Unless it is NEW and a confirmed good seller, that wont take your money and run.
You seem to be a candidate for dealer help in your future also, unless you know how to work on your saws.
The guys here are great teachers and can get you through the basics stuff pretty quickly. Cinch your belt up and hold onto the ride.
I do work on my own saws. I've replaced clutches, rebuilt carbs, even replaced the chassis on my 2750 when I ran over it with my tractor, why you might ask, cause it's actually been a good light saw for cleaning up branches and the chassis only cost me 40.00. I've never been into the engines but couldn't be any more difficult than my snowmobiles and I have plenty of experience rebuilding them.
Which reminds me. Can I run the same INJEX 2 cycle oil I use in my snowmobiles in my chainsaws? I already have just wondering if it's recommended?
If you are just learning I would stay away from ebay saws. Unless it is NEW and a confirmed good seller, that wont take your money and run.
You seem to be a candidate for dealer help in your future also, unless you know how to work on your saws.
The guys here are great teachers and can get you through the basics stuff pretty quickly. Cinch your belt up and hold onto the ride.
Good advise all around, as usual.!!
Maybe you could hook up with an AS member who is nearby, and spend an afternoon trying a couple different saws? You'd learn more about what you need in three hours on a Saturday running a handful of different saws than a month of reading old posts.
pbuehning
ArboristSite Operative
I would love to have a 70-80cc saw but can't justify the expense for the number of times it would be used - that said the 361 is a great saw(from my personal experience) and will pull a 25" bar. It will get the job done as long as you are not hanging on there all day. Drop the big ones, block them till you can overbuck with a 18 - 20" bar.
For me the 25" with skip chain works just fine
As it was explained to me:
"There are 2 instances that it's good to use skip chain. One is with big saws and long long bars. Cutters are cutting from the time they enter the wood till the time they exit, and on really long bars, the chips build up to the point that they hold the cutters out of the wood. Skip chains have more space between the teeth for chip buildup.
The other instance that you might use skip chain is when you are using a bar that is on the verge of being too long for the saw. Fewer cutters in the wood take less power to pull and the saw doesn't bog as badly.
The disadvantage as I understand it is that they are grabbier, aren't as smooth in the cut and are more prone to kickback than full compliment chain."
For me the 25" with skip chain works just fine
As it was explained to me:
"There are 2 instances that it's good to use skip chain. One is with big saws and long long bars. Cutters are cutting from the time they enter the wood till the time they exit, and on really long bars, the chips build up to the point that they hold the cutters out of the wood. Skip chains have more space between the teeth for chip buildup.
The other instance that you might use skip chain is when you are using a bar that is on the verge of being too long for the saw. Fewer cutters in the wood take less power to pull and the saw doesn't bog as badly.
The disadvantage as I understand it is that they are grabbier, aren't as smooth in the cut and are more prone to kickback than full compliment chain."
Then you are in there.
You wont hear me bad mouthing the older stock poulans, I love the saws myself. Best bang for the buck IMO. Just the newer stuff has ruined them.
Sold almost all of the stock saws off though, except for the 1800 (not in pic),2000.
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romeo
Addicted to ArboristSite
Lairry,
It sounds like the dealers in your area are worthless. If the biggest husky is the 455 Rancher and the biggest stihl is a MS390.
It sounds like the dealers in your area are worthless. If the biggest husky is the 455 Rancher and the biggest stihl is a MS390.
There is one good dealer we just don't get along. The only other option is farm and home stores.
Can you get a Poulan 330 54cc (and can put a 60cc topend on it too someday) out there. They run $279 and are built like a real saw with magnesium cases etc. Not like the plastic crap. Bang for the buck.
They still have some floating around here and have been non-epa mufflers etc. Pull the plastic tabs of the carbs and then fully adjustable too.
They still have some floating around here and have been non-epa mufflers etc. Pull the plastic tabs of the carbs and then fully adjustable too.
