New Oregon Corded Electric Chainsaw

[Philbert]

I know that some remodelers and timber framers use electric chainsaws for construction work, sawing beams and heavy wood faster than a reciprocating saw. Some wood and ice carvers like them because they can use them indoors, and are not as noisy. I know people who bought them because of reduced vibration, and easy to start (especially, ahem, 'older' people).

My dealer said that they sell them to utility workers who use them in sewers (?)! Not sure if this is to clear tree roots, or for some type of shoring, or . . . ? Of course, the divers use pneumatic saws for salvage and working on pilings, etc. - electric would not be a good choice for them!

Philbert

 

[Cane pole]

Used the Worx (think it's a 301) for the past two years selling Christmas trees. Cut over 2000 and never any issues. Found a new one on clearance at lowes for $50 last week. Should be good for a few more seasons

 

[zogger]

I have a NIB poulan 400E...never tried it yet. Right before I was going to attack my accumulated branch pile, joe bossman got me the jawsaw and I used that, which I have written about here in a few threads.

 

[Cane pole]

303.1.

This is the one we use.

Does that sharpening bar work on the oregan saw?

 

[Philbert]

Used the Worx (think it's a 301) for the past two years . . . Found a new one on clearance at lowes for $50 last week.

WORX makes a range of electric chainsaws. Their website shows some current models from 8 to 15 amps. The largest one has some comparable specs to the Oregon CS1500: 15 amps, 18 inch bar, similar price. Comes with conventional 3/8 low profile chain instead of the PowerSharp. It would be fun to try those 2 side-by-side. I have seen some of the lower priced models stocked in (please forgive me) 'chain stores', but not their largest saw, which I wanted to take a closer look at.

I have a NIB poulan 400E...never tried it yet.

Zog, looks like your NIB is NLA? It says 18" bar, 4 HP, but I can't find an amperage rating. These were also sold as Craftsman chainsaws.

You should try it - you'll like it!

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Does that sharpening bar work on the oregan saw?

I like the PowerSharp system - I think that it works really well. Take a look at the chips in my photos.

This saw comes with the PowerSharp chain and has the built-in sharpening lever. But you can mount the system on almost any saw that runs 3/8 low profile chain if you buy a 'starter kit'. That's what I did with my Makita electric saw. There are a few links to general discussions on the PowerSharp system in my first post.

Philbert

 

[zogger]

WORX makes a range of electric chainsaws. Their website shows some current models from 8 to 15 amps. The largest one has some comparable specs to the Oregon CS1500: 15 amps, 18 inch bar, similar price. Comes with conventional 3/8 low profile chain instead of the PowerSharp. It would be fun to try those 2 side-by-side. I have seen some of the lower priced models stocked in (please forgive me) 'chain stores', but not the largest one, which I wanted to take a closer look at.


Zog, looks like your NIB is NLA? It says 18" bar, 4 HP, but I can't find an amperage rating. These were also sold as Craftsman chainsaws.

You should try it - you'll like it!

Philbert

Reviews on them are pretty mixed. Lot of five stars, then a lot of no stars/one star. some people apparently did some serious firewooding with them using generators for power, other folks didn't get to make a dozen cuts and stripped the drive gear or the motor fried, etc. I think this is why it is NLA. Ya, I'll try it sometime. I also have a cheap remington electric I have used some, works OK. The oregon batt saw has more nads than the remington plug in, which is really tiny, but for getting it as scrap, I can't complain, it runs.

Someone needs to resurrect that old 12 VDC saw idea with the long jumper cable connection.

 

[Philbert]

Reviews on them are pretty mixed. Lot of five stars, then a lot of no stars/one star.

That's the point I keep trying to make: the difference between the cheap electric saws, and the better quality ones.

This Oregon saw is brand new - looks well made, feels good, but I have only had it for a week. The Makita is used for Home Depot Rental services - it has to be tough to stand up to that use! They will sell you one, but it is not the same electric saw as they stock in their aisles for $50.

I have seen my little Remington on sale without the pole for $40. It has very lightweight, plastic drive gears that will not hold up to heavy use. I only use it with a light touch. But I have bucked some serious stuff (16 inch maple) with the Makita, and I plan to try the Oregon in similar wood.

Philbert

 

[Franny K]

Of course, the divers use pneumatic saws for salvage and working on pilings, etc. - electric would not be a good choice for them!

Philbert

Are you sure you mean pneumatic? That is compressed air. Stanley has a dedicated hydraulic underwater saw http://www.stanleyhydraulics.ca/handheld/tree_trimming.shtml

Oregon a subsidiary of blount makes commercial stuff. I have a couple of three point hitch tractor attachments that are really heavy duty Woods and Woods/Gannon. This market segment they choose for whatever reason to stay on the low end. I tried out the husqvarna battery saw at a trade show and wouldn't even pick up and try the oregon one after that. They had the pole saw there and perhaps something else.

Electric tools, well corded ones move cooling air over the armature or windings. Your Makita one might share parts with their hypoid saw (similar layout to worm drive). Only battery tool I have is a 9.6 volt makita drill and it is enclosed. If you choose I would suggest examining the cooling air and how debris is more or less likely to get in and how likely debris will kill or send them down for maintenance. Another thing I noticed on the Husqvarna battery saw is that it has some sort of dampening in the drive line, at least appears that way from the parts sheet/ipl. Do the Oregon electric either corded or battery have any such dampening?

The Dolmar electric chainsaw seems to be the Makita one, a lawn mower type place that once carried efco/cub cadet but currently carries no (other) chainsaws had one but doesn't seem to be a Dolmar dealer.

 

[Philbert]

Are you sure you mean pneumatic?

Yep. In fact, Stanley used to make some - they show up on eBay now and then. I just Googled 'pneumatic chainsaw' and got some current models and a few YouTube hits.
You are correct that there are also hydraulic chainsaws, including the ICS concrete cutting chainsaws, that are part of Blount.

Another thing I noticed on the husqvarna battery saw is that it has some sort of dampening in the drive line, at least appears that way from the parts sheet/ipl. Do the oregon electric either corded or battery have any such dampening?

Not sure what you mean by 'dampening', and have not had either of these saws apart. Have not seen an IPL for either ('no user serviceable parts inside').

I know that the Oregon 40 volt saw has an overload/cut-out protection feature built into it's circuits. Don't know about the corded CS1500 does or does not.

Philbert

 

[Franny K]

It was a bit of a challenge to find the parts sheet I was hoping for a small spline but found two flats on a round shaft. I did save a picture of the sprocket and what may or may not be dampening isn't numbered on this sheet I can't find them on the few others

 

[Philbert]

The Dolmar electric chainsaw seems to be the Makita one, . . . .

I believe that they are identical, except for the color of the case. The spec sheets for the current (again, excuse the pun) models list the Makita at 15 amps and the Dolmar at 14.5 amps, but I think that this is just due to different writers. They are very similar in appearance to the Husqvarna/Jonsered models, but I don't know how similar or different they are inside.

These saws (Makita, Dolmar, Husqvarna, Jonsered) list toward the upper end of the $200 - $300 range. This new Oregon saw is selling for something like half of that, which is pretty attractive, if it holds up as well.

Philbert

 

[1Alpha1]

Man......that Stihl MSE-220 I plan on buying, sure is beginning to sound pretty expensive.

 

[sawfun]

One issue with the mse220 is weight. It weighs like a ms261, 5100, or 034 super. Where a mse180 weighs like a ms192. Big difference, especially for a homeowner.

 

[Philbert]

One issue with the mse220 is weight. It weighs like a ms261, 5100, or 034 super. Where a mse180 weighs like a ms192. Big difference, especially for a homeowner.

Did somebody just suggest a '2-electric saw plan'?

Philbert

 

[sawfun]

Well it sounds like we both have more than that. One is plenty for me so eventually three out of my four electrics will go.

 

[Philbert]

Brought it to a GTG / Firewood Cut

Hard to get a bunch of modded/ported saw users to try it - got a few. Would have helped if I had another 25 feet of extension cord to reach where the carmel rolls were handed out!

Philbert

 

[Chris-PA]

Good thread - not sure how I missed it when you first posted it! I've wanted to pick up a Poulan 400E for some time but have not gotten around to it. I kind of like the design of that Makita though - is there much difference in the width of the ones you looked at?

Also, can you feel the torque reaction at start up, and does the motor orientation make a noticeable difference?

 

[Toyboy]

I'm not sure how I missed this thread either. What you've left out (maybe intentional) are the old McCulloch electrics. They come up for sale from time to time and are pretty cheap.
I work at the town recycle center, and someone discarded a McCulloch EM250 that was in like new condition. As in most cases the gent had passed and his wife was cleaning out the garage. It sat on the ground all weekend and no one paid any attention (I like to call this place a "transfer station", one person to the next) . So as I was closing up I threw it in the truck and brought it home. After a little cleaning I tried it out and was quite impressed, I'd never messed with an electric before.

It now resides in my home for doing just what was mentioned before, adjusting wood lengths for my small wood burner.
It doesn't have the grunt of the saws you've tested (10amp 2.5hp listed), but for a handy little homeowner saw, it's pretty good.
Price was right too.

 

[zogger]

I'm not sure how I missed this thread either. What you've left out (maybe intentional) are the old McCulloch electrics. They come up for sale from time to time and are pretty cheap.
I work at the town recycle center, and someone discarded a McCulloch EM250 that was in like new condition. As in most cases the gent had passed and his wife was cleaning out the garage. It sat on the ground all weekend and no one paid any attention (I like to call this place a "transfer station", one person to the next) . So as I was closing up I threw it in the truck and brought it home. After a little cleaning I tried it out and was quite impressed, I'd never messed with an electric before.

It now resides in my home for doing just what was mentioned before, adjusting wood lengths for my small wood burner.
It doesn't have the grunt of the saws you've tested (10amp 2.5hp listed), but for a handy little homeowner saw, it's pretty good.
Price was right too.

Cool job man! What is your absolute best score at the recycle place?