New Oregon Corded Electric Chainsaw

[Philbert]

I kind of like the design of that Makita though - is there much difference in the width of the ones you looked at? Also, can you feel the torque reaction at start up, and does the motor orientation make a noticeable difference?

I like the slim, in-line design of the Makita, especially when working in congested areas like lilac hedges, etc. It balances well and it's also easier to store. For typical firewood cutting, I don't know that it would make much of a difference. The design of the Oregon saw is more similar to gas saws, and some of the other electrics. I have not noticed any significant torque reaction with any of the electric saws I have tried - nothing like with some of the older electric routers, or some pneumatic tools, etc.

What you've left out (maybe intentional) are the old McCulloch electrics. They come up for sale from time to time and are pretty cheap. . . .
It doesn't have the grunt of the saws you've tested (10amp 2.5hp listed), but for a handy little homeowner saw, it's pretty good.

The main point of this thread was to share some impressions of this new, corded, Oregon saw, and, somewhat, to distinguish it from some other electric saws. As noted, there are a wide range of electric saws, just as there are with gas saws, and some of them fit different needs or applications. I think that this one compares best with the Makita UC4030A, WORX WG304, Husqvarna 316EL, and maybe a few other currently available saws in that category (13 to 15 amp), and with some similar features, that are suitable for medium duty work. Certainly, there are also some NLA saws that might fit in this category.

Philbert

 

[Toyboy]

Cool job man! What is your absolute best score at the recycle place?

Several.... Husky 460 needing fuel line & filter and Stihl BG 65 leaf blower needing fuel line, filter and I replaced the carb. Both machines were in lightly used condition but stored wet with ethanol gas. Where I live we have some big $$ living on the lakes and they'd rather replace with new then get repaired. Unreal the stuff that comes through there that people discard.

 

[Toyboy]

I like the slim, in-line design of the Makita, especially when working in congested areas like lilac hedges, etc. It balances well and it's also easier to store. For typical firewood cutting, I don't know that it would make much of a difference. The design of the Oregon saw is more similar to gas saws, and some of the other electrics. I have not noticed any significant torque reaction with any of the electric saws I have tried - nothing like with some of the older electric routers, or some pneumatic tools, etc.



The main point of this thread was to share some impressions of this new, corded, Oregon saw, and, somewhat, to distinguish it from some other electric saws. As noted, there are a wide range of electric saws, just as there are with gas saws, and some of them fit different needs or applications. I think that this one compares best with the Makita UC4030A, WORX WG304, Husqvarna 316EL, and maybe a few other currently available saws in that category (13 to 15 amp), and with some similar features, that are suitable for medium duty work. Certainly, there are also some NLA saws that might fit in this category.

Philbert

Point well taken. To be honest with you, I never paid any attention to electric saws before finding this one. They do have a advantage for those occasional users that don't want to deal with the maintenance of gas models.

 

[Philbert]

Point well taken. To be honest with you, I never paid any attention to electric saws before finding this one.

It's like a lot of other things - you might really be satisfied with your McCulloch electric . . . until you try another one. The right electric saws, with a sharp chain, will surprise a lot of people!

I own a light duty Remington electric chainsaw - part of a pole saw. It cuts light stuff OK. The gears look like they are made out of a cheap plastic - won't hold up to heavy use or abuse. Sells for around $40, if you buy it without the pole.

I own a Makita electric saw that Home Depot rents - I figured that if it stands up to HD rental use, it must be pretty tough. Retails in the $260 range.

The Husqvarna and STIHL electric chainsaws also get good reviews, but sell for more.

So these newer, 'mid-range' electric saws: 15 amps; priced $100 - $150 - are really interesting. They have a lot more power than the cheap electric saws ($30 - $70) that many people, are familiar with; appear to be better in the quality of materials and design; but sell for half (or less!) the price of some of those other models. They have a lot more power than the battery saws that I have tried.

These saws appear to be targeted at homeowners, and come with 'consumer friendly' features, like tool-less chain tensioners, and PowerSharp chain on the Oregon model. Light. Quiet. Low vibration. Easy 'On/Off' operation. Minimal maintenance. The only 'downsides' I have encountered with this new one are pretty minor:
1) I really need to upgrade to a 12 gauge extension cord due to the 15 amp motor. I like the additional power, but only have a 50' and a 25' cord in this gauge, and want 100 foot range.
2) I have used these saws a few times in colder weather (30°F), and they did not like cold bar and chain oil ('winter weight') that had been stored out in the garage during even colder weather. Problem was solved when I brought the oil into the house for a few hours to warm up. In hindsight, they don't have exhausts located next to their oil tanks to help heat up the bar oil.

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Saw some MSRP retail pricing posted today (in regards to an earlier question):



Philbert

 

[sawfun]

Does anybody know if the Husky and Makita are the same saw? They appear the same from specs and appearences.

 

[Philbert]

Does anybody know if the Husky and Makita are the same saw? They appear the same from specs and appearences.

I don't think that they are, although similar, in-line designs. The Makita and Dolmar are the same.

Philbert

 

[sawfun]

Thanks, the Huskys are more expensive but wonder what the difference is.

 

[Philbert]

The Case for an Electric Saw

It's easy to make the case that a corded electric saw does not need a case. Electric saws are more likely to be used near an outlet, and less likely to be transported than a gas, or even battery powered saw. Easy enough to store them on a shelf, or hang them on the wall, in a garage. But I have several saws. So cases help me keep things sorted; help to keep the right parts with each saw; and contain any bar oil that might leak or drip.

The CS1500 is wider than most of the other saws I have, and would not fit into a PowerBox type case without a lot of modification, and without part of the motor hanging out of the side. It also would not fit into a beverage cooler I converted into a saw case.
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/carry-case-for-a-large-saw.202923/ (Post #15)

It did fit neatly into a Rubbermaid, 14 gallon, storage tote, along with room for bar oil, gloves, extra chains, etc. I can also store it with the bar removed, and inside the case, to take up less room. I might have enough room for a good sized extension cord in there as well! About $7, on sale at a local home center.

Pretty simple. Cover the area to be cut with masking tape. Leave a little extra room for maneuvering the saw in and out. Mark out the size/shape of the desired opening. Cut with a hole saw and a sharp utility knife.

P.S. - using a storage tote was an idea I picked up here on A.S. from another member - passing it on!

Philbert

 

[Fubar]

great thread , don't know how i missed it ? i have a ancient Remington that i bought umpteen years ago and it wasn't new then, just to build a couple of goat pole barns , and i instantly fell in love with it , i have built porches , decks , sawed firewood and cross cut logs with it till the bearings wore out and it started making a screeching sound last winter 2013 , the wife saw{ pun intended } lol , how upset i was over the loss , so she bought me a worxs 15 amp saw and a new heavy duty extension cord for x-mas of 2014 , i have used it quite a bit , i like it , it will out cut some gas chainsaws , only time will tell if it holds up like the old Remington.

 

[Philbert]

Took the Saw to an Iowa GTG

Electric saws need electricity (!). I brought 100+ feet of 12 gauge cord, but the outlet near the cutting site did not have the current needed. Might have been voltage drop. Might have been a bad connection somewhere along the line. But the 'down side' of more powerful electric motors is the need for reliable current. Usually not a problem near your house, garage, shop, barn, etc. But in the middle of a field . . . .

The CS1500 is rated at 15Amps, and Struggle had an old Remington EL rated at 12A. Neither saw was happy with that outlet, but fortunately Homelite410 pulled a Honda generator out of his hat! EU2000, rated at 13.3A, 16.7A max. We ran off of that.


First with the heavy, old iron, wearing .404 chain!


Then with the new kid on the block, wearing 3/8 low profile, PowerSharp chain.


Check out the flying chips!


Cookies!


Noodles!


Noodles under the clutch cover!

The saw and PowerSharp chain noodled well. I did not notice a problem with build up - only noticed them when I removed the cover to clean the saw. Might be an issue with some wood species, or with heavy, continuous noodling. Note that I also removed the sharpening stone before the GTG (people love to play with the lever, see sparks, and grind away the chains!), so there might be slightly better clearance. Good view of the tool-less chain adjusting disk.

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Bigger Wood

Took the CS1500 out today for a home assistance type request, with trees down in a yard. Used the 40V battery saw for most of the stuff, but some of the larger wood was a challenge for that saw. Switched to the 15A electric saw running off a garage outlet. Really cut through the heavy, wet wood, even with most of its bar in the cut, almost as easily as the smaller cookies in the photos posted above.

Philbert