New to forum - MS290 questions

[Jaberwky]

Howdy. Relatively new saw user here - a little background......

Bought a rural house in NW MN 2 summers ago, so this is my 3rd heating season. House has outdoor wood boiler, so I bought an MS290 new as my first saw ever. Swapped out the bar for a 20" and it's been working great for me. I get 3-1/2 cord loads of 9' sections delivered and I cut & stack the rounds (no need to split).

Probably typical for a newbie I learned the hard way about chains - went far too long between chains the first season. Last year finally figured out rotating between chains but still paid the local shop to sharpen at $5 a pop (yeah yeah yeah...). This year I realized how cheap and easy and FRIGGING EFFECTIVE it is to sharpen myself. Duh....this weekend I gave an edge to the chain every 3rd tank or so and wow what a difference!

Anyway I have 3 questions that I could use help with.
1. I noticed for the first time this weekend that my saw was getting REALLY hot. It was close to 90 air temp by mid afternoon 2 of the days, and I was cutting steady for 4 hours on Sunday and 8 yesterday. I noticed the saw body was really hot to the touch after a couple hours' cutting, so I took a water break and let it cool a little every fuel fill. What should I watch for in terms of overheating? It's set for warm weather use, and I cleaned the filter of dust a few times throughout the day.

2. Bar wear - it's getting definitely time for a new bar. I flip it at each chain swap. If I get a new one, is there any problem using my old chains on it? Have they "seated" to the more worn bar and is there any danger in doing this?

3. Choke lever - for some reason this saw is being a bugger at the on/off control lever. It moves freely from off to on, and from on to full choke. However I have to really force it to move from full to partial choke when cold starting. A couple of times I've had to take the housing cover off and re-set it. It worked fine when new and I have just noticed this problem the last few uses.

Thanks in advance.

 

[blis]

Your saw might be running too lean or the cooling fins could be all dirty if the saw is getting excessively hot, but have the mix checked if you dont know how to do it youself just for incase...

About the bar wear, it is ok to use old chains on new bar... Just one question, you have remembered to file the bar square after every few flips? if not learn to do it since it increases the life of bar althou sharp chain will help with bar longevity too...

 

[RiverRat2]

clean the flywheel and air shroud,

Jaberwky,
after the saw is cooled down, pull the starter recoil cover, you will probably find the inside if the cover coated with sawdust fines,,,,, and the flywheel fins as well,,, take a stiff bristle paint brush and knock the all the loose stuff you can off in both areas then look under the air shroud the covers the cylinder and the cooling fins and they will probably look similar clean what you can,,, I like to use castrol super clean cut 3or 4 : 1 with water(1 part cleaner 3 parts water) in a spray bottle and soak down ever surface previously discribed, let it set about 5-10 minutesthan blast it with a waterhose spray nozzle on Jet....... it will clean it so good you wont believe it. that should help,,,,,,, that film of saw dust fines doesnt let the saw cool properly... Pull your muffler screen and make sure it is clean also,,

Bar wear already addressed,, used chains are OK as long as the drive links are still good,,, dressing of bar rails already covered, good advice,,,,also clean the groove and make user the oil holes are unobstructed and the sprocket is spinning freely,,, check spur sprocket for excessive wear replace as needed

On the choke lever the only thing that I know is perhaps you inadvertantly got out of sequence when starting,,,, always depress safety release then pull trigger, while holding them, then set to choke,,, pull till it pops,,, then move lever to fast idle or partial choke, till it cranks it should be on fast idle, then blip throttle till it runs smooth

 

[Cut4fun]

This is where it starts, asking how to fix our saws, then Kbooooommmmm, you have a garage full of chainsaws and bars and chains everywhere.
If you like your money in your wallet and free space in your garage, RUN and run fast. :hmm3grin2orange:
Otherwise welcome to the site and get ready to be mesmerized with the ton of info coming your way, Have a open mind and enjoy.

 

[Jaberwky]

Good stuff

All good stuff - this is why I love the internet and BBs - when you need good advice from peers it's wonderful.

Tonight is stacking only - more cutting on the weekend. I'm at the point where there was a single 18" cottonwood in the parking lot next to my office that was being taken out for construction. The contractor limbed it and left the 20' trunk standing. Of course I took the opportunity to run home at lunch, grab the saw and gear and got my first felling experience. Well, one extra day of wood heat out of it didn't hurt either - but I was just glad to be able to cut!

 

[Jaberwky]

Hmmm

Your saw might be running too lean or the cooling fins could be all dirty if the saw is getting excessively hot, but have the mix checked if you dont know how to do it youself just for incase...

About the bar wear, it is ok to use old chains on new bar... Just one question, you have remembered to file the bar square after every few flips? if not learn to do it since it increases the life of bar althou sharp chain will help with bar longevity too...

Thanks - no, I have not filed the bar at all. I sight down it at each flip, clean the groove, give the nose wheel a spritz of WD-40 and make sure it's spinning free, and clean out the oil holes. what resource should I use to find out how to file it square - is it as simple as clamping the bar and using a flat, fine-toothed metal file?

 

[Bermie]

Thanks - no, I have not filed the bar at all. I sight down it at each flip, clean the groove, give the nose wheel a spritz of WD-40 and make sure it's spinning free, and clean out the oil holes. what resource should I use to find out how to file it square - is it as simple as clamping the bar and using a flat, fine-toothed metal file?

Sounds like you are on the money with your maintenance...good for you!

Some extra tips...
When you sight down the bar, look to see that the rails are of the same height and thickness, if they are not then you need to square it off to get them the same height again. Keep an eye on the depth, don't file it too shallow for the chain to ride in properly.
If one side is thinner than the other its time for a new bar.
Thickness and height differences are usually caused by incorrect chain sharpening, alternating short and long cutters causing the saw to cut in a 'curve' thus wearing more on one side.

Backing up a bit, also check for 'burrs' on the outside edges of the bar, feel VERY carefully with your fingernail, if there are any burrs then file them off with a flat file, filing away from the slot.
Also check for excessive 'blueing' on your bar, with your comments on heat, if the bar is getting too hot it will get really blue and burnt looking...not good either!

If you are getting to the point you need a new bar, check that you don't need an new drive sprocket as well. Look for deep wear grooves, anything more than a millimeter its time to get a new one, rotate about three chains on one sprocket, by the time your chains are done, it's also time for a new sprocket as new chains don't like to seat in the old wear patterns on a worn sprocket, makes the new chains wear faster!

As for the choke, I have a 290 also, the choke lever can get 'offside' I've seen more than one have this isssue, fiddle with it till it's back in place, treat it with a little care!

 

[jhellwig]

The filing on the bar means you take the edge that rolled over off the rails off. It will start to hang up in wood. Just take a raker file and knock it off.


As far as the other problems with the saw. The one and only solution is buying a new saw. I recommend a 441.

 

[lcso10]

I find thias very hard to explain but I will try my best.
On the lever problem. Have the lever in the run position. Take the filter cover off where you can see the full lever. The contact spring that grounds the kill wire will have a curved end facing you. If you will take a pair of needle nose pliers and roll that curve towards the rear of the saw just a little the lever will slide a little smoother. Not to much to break the spring thought cause they a pain to replace if you have big hands. The bend and a little grease should make the lever eaiser to slide through positions. Hope this helps you out.

 

[mini kahuna]

+ 1 for that tip

yeah icso 10 that happens on alot of saws,good explanation of what is going on.

 

[Jaberwky]

Yes

I find thias very hard to explain but I will try my best.
On the lever problem. Have the lever in the run position. Take the filter cover off where you can see the full lever. The contact spring that grounds the kill wire will have a curved end facing you. If you will take a pair of needle nose pliers and roll that curve towards the rear of the saw just a little the lever will slide a little smoother. Not to much to break the spring thought cause they a pain to replace if you have big hands. The bend and a little grease should make the lever eaiser to slide through positions. Hope this helps you out.

I was going to try to explain that I've encountered this but my written description was just too messy and confusing. This does happen to my saw. I will try your "fix" and see if it helps.
One design flaw that I can see is that the pivot "bar" that the lever assembly is attached to - one end slips into a hole in the saw housing, but the end closest to the lever just is supposed to fit down into a "C" shaped snap. If a little pressure is applied to the lever it can easily cause that end to pop out of the snap and allow the contact spring to slip UNDER the lever.

 

[peter399]

As far as the other problems with the saw. The one and only solution is buying a new saw. I recommend a 441.

Have they finally got rid of the *censored* start/stop/choke lever on the 441?

 

[blis]

Have they finally got rid of the *censored* start/stop/choke lever on the 441?

You wish :greenchainsaw:

 

[SawTroll]

.....
Backing up a bit, also check for 'burrs' on the outside edges of the bar, feel VERY carefully with your fingernail, if there are any burrs then file them off with a flat file, filing away from the slot. ....

Good advise, I do this after every few hours of use + flip the bar. I am probably overdoing it a bit, but that is much better than not often enough....

Sprocket rims are cheap, and normally outlast only a few chains, about 2-4.

If the saw had a spur sprocket to begin with, change it to rim and drum the first time you need a new sprocket.

 

[SawTroll]

Have they finally got rid of the *censored* start/stop/choke lever on the 441?

The version on my 361 works well enough, no problems like those described here, but I don't really like the design.......opcorn:

 

[Lakeside53]

Have they finally got rid of the *censored* start/stop/choke lever on the 441?

Get over it Peter.. Just because it's different to what you use doesn't make it bad. :deadhorse: :deadhorse: :deadhorse:

It works perfectly... and I don't like to use anthing else, but when I do use a Husky, I adapt. Never could adapt to driving the old Sarb's though

 

[RiverRat2]

Jaberwky!!!

I was going to try to explain that I've encountered this but my written description was just too messy and confusing. This does happen to my saw. I will try your "fix" and see if it helps.
One design flaw that I can see is that the pivot "bar" that the lever assembly is attached to - one end slips into a hole in the saw housing, but the end closest to the lever just is supposed to fit down into a "C" shaped snap. If a little pressure is applied to the lever it can easily cause that end to pop out of the snap and allow the contact spring to slip UNDER the lever.

Listen up,,,,,IT'S POPPING OUT BECAUSE YOUR JUST DOING IT WRONG,,,, if you try to MOVE THE CONTROL SWITCH ALL THE WAY TO CHOKE BEFORE YOU PUSH THE THROTTLE SAFETY RELEASE AND PULL THE TRIGGER IT WILL POP THE CONTROL LEVER OUT OF THAT C NOTCH AND THE GROUNDING CONTACT GETS POPPED OUT AND ON TOP OF THE LEVER,,, IT WILL DO IT EVERY TIME!!!!!!!!!! JUST LIKE YOU ARE DESCRIBING
AND IF YOU KEEP DOING IT,,,, IT WILL BREAK THE CONTACT AND YOU WILL BE HAVING TO BUY A NEW ONE,,,,,,, AND BTW THAT CONTACT IS A PITA TO CHANGE ON THAT SAW,,,, JUST LIKE EVERYTHING ELSE ON THOSE WONDERFUL LITTLE SAWS,,,,, ERRR,, AAAHHHHEMMM,,,,,

ONE MORE TIME,,,,


COLD STIHL STARTING PROCEDURE 101

1) WITH RIGHT HAND,,,,ON THE BACK OF THE REAR HANDLE
USING AREA BETWEEN THUMB AND INDEX FINGER AGAINST THROTTLE
SAFETY LEVER DEPRESS LEVER AND GRIP HANDLE,AND SQUEEZE TRIGGER



2) SAME HAND, WHILE MAINTAINING SAFETY DEPRESSED AND THROTTLE APPLIED FULL USE RIGHT THUMB TO MOVE CONTROL ALL THE WAY TO CHOKE
WITH CHOKE APPLIED YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO LET GO, THE TROTTLE SHOULD BE SET TO HALF OR FAST IDLE,
GRAB SAW BY TOP HANDLE WITH YOU FAVORITE HOLD HAND AND WITH THE OTHER HAND PULL TILL YOU HEAR IT POP OF COUGH OR TRY TO START (USUALLY SHOULD HAPPEN BY THREE PULLS)

MOVE CONTOLL LEVER TO THE NEXT POSITION UP,,, IT LOOKS LIKE HALF CHOKED,, PULL TILL IT STARTS,,,,,,,

IT SHOULD BE RUNNING FAST,,, BLIP THROTTLE AND IT WILL RETURN TO IDLE,,,,,,,,:monkey:

ONCE YOU GET USED TO DOING IT IT BECOMES A NATURAL MOTION AND YOU DO IT ALL AT ONCE ALL-MOST


Once the Saw is warmed up and you dont need to choke it,,,, you can go straight to on from off and it is not a problem,,,, it wont jump out,,,,,

BUT IF ITS COLD AND YOU NEED TO CHOKE IT TO START IT AND YOU DONT DO IT LIKE I TOLD YA,,,, YOUR GONNA BREAK IT,,,,,, DANG YOUR HIDE

 

[greengoblin]

Listen up,,,,,IT'S POPPING OUT BECAUSE YOUR JUST DOING IT WRONG,,,, if you try to MOVE THE CONTROL SWITCH ALL THE WAY TO CHOKE BEFORE YOU PUSH THE THROTTLE SAFETY RELEASE AND PULL THE TRIGGER IT WILL POP THE CONTROL LEVER OUT OF THAT C NOTCH AND THE GROUNDING CONTACT GETS POPPED OUT AND ON TOP OF THE LEVER,,, IT WILL DO IT EVERY TIME!!!!!!!!!! JUST LIKE YOU ARE DESCRIBING
AND IF YOU KEEP DOING IT,,,, IT WILL BREAK THE CONTACT AND YOU WILL BE HAVING TO BUY A NEW ONE,,,,,,, AND BTW THAT CONTACT IS A PITA TO CHANGE ON THAT SAW,,,, JUST LIKE EVERYTHING ELSE ON THOSE WONDERFUL LITTLE SAWS,,,,, ERRR,, AAAHHHHEMMM,,,,,

ONE MORE TIME,,,,


COLD STIHL STARTING PROCEDURE 101

1) WITH RIGHT HAND,,,,ON THE BACK OF THE REAR HANDLE
USING AREA BETWEEN THUMB AND INDEX FINGER AGAINST THROTTLE
SAFETY LEVER DEPRESS LEVER AND GRIP HANDLE,AND SQUEEZE TRIGGER



2) SAME HAND, WHILE MAINTAINING SAFETY DEPRESSED AND THROTTLE APPLIED FULL USE RIGHT THUMB TO MOVE CONTROL ALL THE WAY TO CHOKE
WITH CHOKE APPLIED YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO LET GO, THE TROTTLE SHOULD BE SET TO HALF OR FAST IDLE,
GRAB SAW BY TOP HANDLE WITH YOU FAVORITE HOLD HAND AND WITH THE OTHER HAND PULL TILL YOU HEAR IT POP OF COUGH OR TRY TO START (USUALLY SHOULD HAPPEN BY THREE PULLS)

MOVE CONTOLL LEVER TO THE NEXT POSITION UP,,, IT LOOKS LIKE HALF CHOKED,, PULL TILL IT STARTS,,,,,,,

IT SHOULD BE RUNNING FAST,,, BLIP THROTTLE AND IT WILL RETURN TO IDLE,,,,,,,,:monkey:

ONCE YOU GET USED TO DOING IT IT BECOMES A NATURAL MOTION AND YOU DO IT ALL AT ONCE ALL-MOST


Once the Saw is warmed up and you dont need to choke it,,,, you can go straight to on from off and it is not a problem,,,, it wont jump out,,,,,

BUT IF ITS COLD AND YOU NEED TO CHOKE IT TO START IT AND YOU DONT DO IT LIKE I TOLD YA,,,, YOUR GONNA BREAK IT,,,,,, DANG YOUR HIDE

Same thing I thought, that he wasnt pulling the trigger when moving it down, just didnt want to say it cuz he said it moves from on to full choke fine, its putting it up to fast idle thats the problem, plus i am not the most knowledge here

 

[Lakeside53]

and backing up a few more posts... you really shouldn't have to bend any springs.. they work just fine as shipped. If it has been BENT by being flipped up on top, that's another issue.

 

[RiverRat2]

R U editing my post again Andrew?????

and backing up a few more posts... you really shouldn't have to bend any springs.. they work just fine as shipped. If it has been BENT by being flipped up on top, that's another issue.

I quoted that and described how he got it like that in the first place thus when he went up to fast choke he already had gotten it foul-hooked or popped out or whatever and I quoted his delima in my post!!!!
Mr. Supernova!!!!! :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange: