newbie stihl 026 saw question

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fletcher0780

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I'm new to chainsaws and have a few questions. I have a stihl 021 for brush trimming and small firewood, and recently bought a use stihl 026 that came with a 20" bar and 3/8 .50 chain. I should preface my questions by telling you that I have limited strength in my left arm from a 10 year old nerve injury so I can't handle too heavy of a saw and limiting kickback is important.

I feel very comfortable running my 021 (not comfortable enough to become complacent), but found that it's just not enough saw for anything over 8" wood, hence the purchase of the 026. I did a lot of research and most of it pointed to the 026 as a good lightweight firewood saw. I've been told that the 20" bar should help reduce kickback, but the owner of the local saw shop said he thinks it's too much bar for such a small saw especially when using the bigger 3/8 chain. Is this bar/chain/saw combo uncommon? I did a test cut with the saw today (new chain) and found that it cuts well, but I can't put any pressure on the saw or it bogs a bit. What do you have for suggestions?
 
If you cut hardwood, it is definately too much for good performanse - 16" and .325 is more like it.


...you could try full skip chain on that 20" bar, but it will cut rougher and be more kick-back prone.
 
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If you cut hardwood, it is definately too much for good performanse - 16" and .325 is more like it.


...you could try full skip chain on that 20" bar, but it will cut rougher.

I agree with the Troll, 16" and .325; plus you won't find yourself holding the saw back as much(less strain on your arm) just let the saw eat.

Kickback is a product of not knowing where your upper tip is; IMO a too long bar, especially when bucking a pile of wood is just as dangerous.
 
if I went to a 16" bar with the 3/8 would that work for me? I'm trying to change as little as possible. I have a friend with a 460 I can sell my two new chains to and the saw could use a new bar, but I'd rather not change the sprocket if I can avoid it.
 
if I went to a 16" bar with the 3/8 would that work for me? I'm trying to change as little as possible. I have a friend with a 460 I can sell my two new chains to and the saw could use a new bar, but I'd rather not change the sprocket if I can avoid it.


ya that will work as well
 
Yup, 16" 3/8 is the best 026 combo I think. Do you have the adjustable carb? It will have 3 screws, 2 on top and 1 on the bottom. "L", "H", and "LA". If you have the adj. carb you could do a muffler mod to pick up some more power, easy and effective.
 
yeah, its got an adjustable carb. Would the muffler mod make enough of a difference to run the 20" bar? I'm guessing probably not.
 
If you cut hardwood, it is definately too much for good performanse - 16" and .325 is more like it.


...you could try full skip chain on that 20" bar, but it will cut rougher and be more kick-back prone.
You'll think you got a new saw if you switch to 325. Do some timed cuts before and after in 10 - 12 " hardwood. Steve
 
You'll think you got a new saw if you switch to 325. Do some timed cuts before and after in 10 - 12 " hardwood. Steve

Is changing the sprocket a big deal? I guess I'll need to get a sprocket, 16" bar, and a couple 16" .325 chains.

Will a 16" .325 be that much difference than a 16" 3/8 on my saw?
 
yeah, its got an adjustable carb. Would the muffler mod make enough of a difference to run the 20" bar? I'm guessing probably not.

It will pull it a little better but I prefer the 16", the 16" just zips so fast. Send me the front cover and I will mod it for ya for free then walk you through the adjustment.
 
Opening up the muffler won't make it right for a 20 inch bar, even ported a 20 inch bar does a 50cc saw no favors, even without considdering power the balance feels off.
 
Is changing the sprocket a big deal? I guess I'll need to get a sprocket, 16" bar, and a couple 16" .325 chains.

Will a 16" .325 be that much difference than a 16" 3/8 on my saw?

Sprocket change is easy. Take a small screwdriver and pull the e clip off and swap.

I could not tell enough to start buying .325 chains and files......
 
I say more importantly is to switch to .325, don't cut your rakers much and dare I say it you may even want to look at a safety chain or at least something with the "comfort ramp"

I think for you manageability is worth more than speed. you won't cut much wood if it kicks back to your face.


good luck
 
It will pull it a little better but I prefer the 16", the 16" just zips so fast. Send me the front cover and I will mod it for ya for free then walk you through the adjustment.

Very kind of you to offer doing it for free, but I'd insist on paying you somehow. Do you have any need for a 20" 3/8 chain that has cut through 1 8" oak log? If so, I could send you the chain with the cover.

Sprocket change is easy. Take a small screwdriver and pull the e clip off and swap.

I could not tell enough to start buying .325 chains and files......

So you think I should just get a 3/8 16" bar and chains?
 
Very kind of you to offer doing it for free, but I'd insist on paying you somehow. Do you have any need for a 20" 3/8 chain that has cut through 1 8" oak log? If so, I could send you the chain with the cover.



So you think I should just get a 3/8 16" bar and chains?

Nope, no payment, it's too easy. It can be done with a Dremel and just a few minutes. I will post a pic if you feel like taking it on.

I say go for the 16" 3/8, I'm running 2 026s now with that b&c and love 'em, have done the 20" skip for small limbs and the extra reach.
 
Realy unless you are racing, .325 or 3/8 on an 026 is six of on half dozen the other. with 3/8 chain there are more options for chain and they do last a little longer. Some of the smaller cutter .325 chain is not great. Stihl RS .325 is about all I have liked in .325 chain.

Most times I put 3/8 on 026's, but have a buch of .325 to use up so put that on for cutting roots and junk.
 
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Nope, no payment, it's too easy. It can be done with a Dremel and just a few minutes. I will post a pic if you feel like taking it on.

I say go for the 16" 3/8, I'm running 2 026s now with that b&c and love 'em, have done the 20" skip for small limbs and the extra reach.

Sure, post the pic if you can.
 
There are 3 different versions of the front cover but all have the same idea, give the exhaust more area to exit. I think the later MS260 only had 1 hole and were very restrictive. This is a 2 hole and I just blended the holes together. The 4 hole(I added these in orange) would be the same procedure. Remember not to "hog" it out because you can go too big and hurt performance and reliablity.

attachment.php
 
There are 3 different versions of the front cover but all have the same idea, give the exhaust more area to exit. I think the later MS260 only had 1 hole and were very restrictive. This is a 2 hole and I just blended the holes together. The 4 hole(I added these in orange) would be the same procedure. Remember not to "hog" it out because you can go too big and hurt performance and reliablity.

attachment.php

Awesome! What is the carb adjustment procedure?
 
Carb adjust

Go to Madsens.com, search carb adjust. You will download an audio file, actually hear how to tune the carb. I am picking up an 026 tomorrow, I am going to run an 18" w/.325 RSC. Of course most of my cutting is soft pine.

First thing that will happen to my saw is a muff mod. Done it to almost every saw, it do make a diff! Good luck with your NEW PRO SAW!!!http://www.arboristsite.com/images/smilies/greenchainsaw.gif
 

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