Ochsenkopf Splitting Axe Reviews

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Iron Head

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I love my Big Ox, my ultimate tool for large rounds.
I have been using my Fiskar X25 Super on small rounds.
These two splitters have been good to me for several years now.
I have a minor issue with the Fiskars getting chipped very easy.
The metal is just not of high quality.
So I've been thinking about the Ochsenkopf splitting axe or the Gransfors.
But I would like to see your experience with other makers of quality splitting axes.

No disrespect to the Fiskars fans but I am not seeking any Fiskars inputs. I am also the owner of 2 Fiskars so I do know about them already. I just want to know about other makers.
 
I have the stihl pa80. I don't think its the big ox, but it is an ox. I love that thing.
 
I got the husqvarna splitting maul/sledge. Swedish made by hultafors , like the granfors but half the price. Works good on white oak, thats the only thing i have used it on. I also have a few of the other axes husqvarna offers and like them all.
 
I've been very pleased with Council Tool's 6 lb maul. (I understand that the Ochsenkopf maul is 8 lb.) Got the Council maul for $25 delivered. Gave it a quick sharpening and reshaping near the edge (blended in minor ridge) and it works about as well as any maul I use, including Wetterlings (5.5 lb) & Mueller (6.6 lb).

It has some subtle cheeks to about an inch back from the edge. Some here have ground and polished there- could easily be counter-productive, since those cheeks would serve to spread the splits (and keep them away from the handle). The factory finish is quite slippery. Metallurgy is far superior to Fiskars IMO. (That means base alloy, forging & heat-treating, FWIW.)
 
I have the big ox and it is a beast but expensive. I think you will be sasisfied if you get another Ochsenkopf.
 
I've been very pleased with Council Tool's 6 lb maul. (I understand that the Ochsenkopf maul is 8 lb.) Got the Council maul for $25 delivered. Gave it a quick sharpening and reshaping near the edge (blended in minor ridge) and it works about as well as any maul I use, including Wetterlings (5.5 lb) & Mueller (6.6 lb).

It has some subtle cheeks to about an inch back from the edge. Some here have ground and polished there- could easily be counter-productive, since those cheeks would serve to spread the splits (and keep them away from the handle). The factory finish is quite slippery. Metallurgy is far superior to Fiskars IMO. (That means base alloy, forging & heat-treating, FWIW.)

Some here have polished the head but the SUBTLE cheeks are just as tangible as before the head was polished.

It still stuck in a black ash halve.

ETA - I really dig the Ochenskopf Big Ox. I have seen a couple reviews and really like how it's made.

It looks like a lot of thought went into it and it seems to get the job done.
 
I've been very pleased with Council Tool's 6 lb maul. (I understand that the Ochsenkopf maul is 8 lb.) Got the Council maul for $25 delivered. Gave it a quick sharpening and reshaping near the edge (blended in minor ridge) and it works about as well as any maul I use....
:lol:

Keep drinking the Kool Aid there CT.

Did you miss the part where the OP asked for information on "quality splitting axes"?

Seriously, how much are they paying you to promote that thing?
 
I am looking for an axe around 4lb with a protective metal sleeve. I want another Ochsenkopf to match with my Big Ox but they don't have anything with the specs that I want and I don't want to compromise an without the protective sleeve because I am not very accurate with my strikes. The Gransfors is the closes match.
 
Some here have polished the head but the SUBTLE cheeks are just as tangible as before the head was polished.

It still stuck in a black ash halve.

ETA - I really dig the Ochenskopf Big Ox. I have seen a couple reviews and really like how it's made.

It looks like a lot of thought went into it and it seems to get the job done.

One of two things:
1. Wheaties :innocent:
2. Use it as a feature. Hit the round along intended split line, near/far/midpoint. Drive the head into "best" area, then hit its poll with another maul's poll. Just so the other one is made of suitable tough steel. I've found it impossible to do any cold-working on the CT maul's poll. One always needs to have a plan B, or C ...

This presumes you're setting the round on a solid block of wood, both for edge preservation, and maximizing energy transfer to splitting vice to compacting dirt. That can go a long way in the right direction.

Laying a difficult round on its side often helps. In case of knots/forks, noodling the round partway, through the cross-grain, setting a wedge in one end, and using a maul on the other end can get the tough ones done quickly & simply. A wee bit of creativity helps a lot.
 
Here's a good review that I believe an AS member did.



I really like that maul. Looks like it would last a long time.

I am no expert but that guy doing the review is embarrassing.
Who would swing a maul like that? All you need to do is raise it straight up and follow the drop.
And those small rounds he was trying to split would be easy with the Fiskars.
The rounds that I put under my Big Ox is 24" or better.
 
I am no expert but that guy doing the review is embarrassing.
Who would swing a maul like that? All you need to do is raise it straight up and follow the drop.
And those small rounds he was trying to split would be easy with the Fiskars.
The rounds that I put under my Big Ox is 24" or better.


No sh!t....

Good man. I like the cut of your jib.

That is awesome. Great to see someone else going after longer length rounds. :cheers:
 
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