PILTZ: Master HOT SAW builder (...not)

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A rear handled 200t with a piltz kit would be great for an arborist looking for a little more reach!!!!!! This guy must be a real dweeb promoting this jargon.

Stihl 200T saws have an outboard clutch though, which accd' to PiltzTard in his Hot Saws and Funny Cars Ebay essay:

All said if your saw doesn't have an inboard clutch as found on all new Stihl saws its not a professional saw, ALL outboard clutch saws should be considered obsolete antiques, don't make me say it twice.

Note the obvious contradiction to what the latest Stihl catalog says, once, twice, or otherwise which is that the 210T, 192T and 150T saws are all Professional Tree Service Saws. Of course the PiltzTard knows more than Stihl or any other chainsaw manufacturer does. He should start his own line of chainsaws. I am sure they would fly just like pigs.

So throw those 200T saws away! They are obsolete antiques! Send all of them pieces of junk to me, I will even pay the postage and send you a $5 Starbucks gift certificate for your time.
 
Stihl 200T saws have an outboard clutch though, which accd' to PiltzTard in his Hot Saws and Funny Cars Ebay essay:

All said if your saw doesn't have an inboard clutch as found on all new Stihl saws its not a professional saw, ALL outboard clutch saws should be considered obsolete antiques, don't make me say it twice.

Note the obvious contradiction to what the latest Stihl catalog says, once, twice, or otherwise which is that the 210T, 192T and 150T saws are all Professional Tree Service Saws. Of course the PiltzTard knows more than Stihl or any other chainsaw manufacturer does. He should start his own line of chainsaws. I am sure they would fly just like pigs.

So throw those 200T saws away! They are obsolete antiques! Send all of them pieces of junk to me, I will even pay the postage and send you a $5 Starbucks gift certificate for your time.
Them 200 T's are cool little saws they come apart nice because they use roller bearings at the crank and slip apart easily with no special tools.:rock:
 
With a hot saw kit you'll never need to "slip" it apart. It'll come apart in pieces by itself.
 
His leg will never sustain injuryb from a long bar. That is unless the saw slips when he's starting it and it jumps out if his hand due to the high commission of it being a hot saw.
 
He also claimed to be a "field tester" for Stihl in the 80s. They wouldn't listen to his advice either.

As I recall, Holman Trees said that he did that too, but he went one further: he went to Germany and felled trees with Andreas Stihl himself. Or some such nonsense. Dunno how he found the time to do that though, 50 trees an hour is a tall order. He must have fallen 300 an hour in Germany to make up for the flight time? Funny, Holman Trees and I got into it over wide nose bars, which led to his threatening us and getting banned. I recommended a wide nose yellow label bar to a guy, and he went completely berserk. Said he would get sent home if he showed up to work with a wide nosed bar on his saw.
 
What is his first name and why isn't he posting here or on other forums?

'Cause he would get tossed or piled on in a hurry.

I looked through all my phone books here and there are no listings for Piltz or Piltz Tree Service, Tarzan anything, or Kevlargaffs in any of them in the white or yellow pages going back 6 years (in 5 different sets of phone company books). I think he just had a dummy company name and has the LLC for liability setup at the two addresses I listed earlier.

Looking at the county tax history on the property he has listed in his LLC, they are stacked and have been owned under different names over the years, but its obviously him. Or him and his wife. Hard to tell and deceptive, by design.
 
sorry to be a dissenter, a pantiwaste arborist to boot, and this guy is a master bser, and there are plenty of folks who will line up to be bsed, but... the idea of using 3/8 lo pro on longer bars is an interesting one. i took an old jonsereds 525, 50cc, found a 20" bar with lo pro nose sprocket on baileys. it still has the 7 tooth rim and i doubt i'll bother to experiment with that. i use it for wrecking cottonwoods. their lower limbs tend to be too big for a 35cc top handle. the johnyshreds is light and nimble when up in the tree and with the lo pro chain it cuts pretty fast. of course on the stem i'll switch to a 394 or 084.
 
As I recall, Holman Trees said that he did that too, but he went one further: he went to Germany and felled trees with Andreas Stihl himself. Or some such nonsense. Dunno how he found the time to do that though, 50 trees an hour is a tall order. He must have fallen 300 an hour in Germany to make up for the flight time? Funny, Holman Trees and I got into it over wide nose bars, which led to his threatening us and getting banned. I recommended a wide nose yellow label bar to a guy, and he went completely berserk. Said he would get sent home if he showed up to work with a wide nosed bar on his saw.
Lol i remember that thread.
 
can we start an oil thread now
Sure; Piltz oil - the less you use the better it works!

but... the idea of using 3/8 lo pro on longer bars is an interesting one.
Yup, and I'm a believer in lo pro chain. I often read about what people need to have a fast saw pulling 16-18" bars and think, "Gee, I do that with a smaller displacement saw". But it's going to be proportional - you get a 20% narrower kerf and do the same work with 20" less power. And I'd like to see lo pro extended to 20" - a 45-50cc saw would pull that great.

But there's still all the issues with even longer bars on light plastic-chassis saws with small engines, low output oilers clutches that were not designed for the load, etc.. Even my 42cc Poulans with real bar studs and oilers that put out prodigious volumes of oil would not be appropriate with a 24" bar. And there is probably a reason the manufacturers don't use lo pro on longer bars.
 

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