Pioneer chainsaws

[RENNIE]

Larry & Brian
Thanks so much guys. Really hope to get the orig. 1074 cover as once I'm done restoring this saw it will most likely be for collecting purposes only. I must say though when I was using it as a working saw some years ago it was a banshee. all my buddies I used to cut wood with wanted to buy it.

 

[briantutt]

:agree2:, my P25 will sit all painted and running and I still won't have a cover...

 

[WesternSaw]

Briantutt

Hello Brian,Did not realize you were in the need for one as well!I will keep my I eyes open.As Jerry and Brendon have I think both stated in the past, those plastic air filter covers were a weak link.
Lawrence

 

[briantutt]

Yes indeed they are weak. The one on my 1073 had a crack but I used a solder gun to melt it back together. If I restore that saw I will need a 1073 cover too!

:deadhorse:

 

[RENNIE]

wonder where the original molds are. to get ahold of them would be a gold mine..er well maybe a plastic mine. We have an injection mold outfit a few miles down the road. Be nice to find the original molds.

Rennie

I agree I feel like I've been beating a dead horse for a few years now...

 

[briantutt]

Yes, the old molds would be awesome. I bet any injection house could run it except use glass filled ABS or something. Just the people on this thread would probably justify an min lot order...

On the other hand we could probably get an aluminum low qty tool and get parts for a couple grand...

$20 per cover X 100 people...paid for...

hmmmmmmm

 

[WesternSaw]

Filter covers,briantutt and RENNIE

I would bet those old molds ended up at Partner or Poulan or the scrap yard many years ago.Early in this thread I think someone else talked about the old tooling for Pioneers ie. where it ended up.
I had something in the works for those old air filters awhile back.Maybe if there was enough interest I may pursue it again.

Lawrence

 

[briantutt]

I can do the solid modeling...

 

[WesternSaw]

craigslist find

Someone say they might want a P26? Checkout the ebay craigslist thread.
Lawrence

 

[DroppedP51]

P28 on local auction site

10$ reserve Has been stored for years

 

[briantutt]

P25 Case Splitter

Best way to split a case is generally to get a good piece of stiff steel bar stock, like 2" wide by 1/2" thick or more. Drill three holes in it - two to fit over the bar mount studs, and one more directly over the crank, which needs to either be threaded or have a nut welded overtop of.

Like this? I have nice 1/2-20 bolt with a bearing in the end that screws right in.

 

[briantutt]

P25 Stripping and Blasting Questions!

Case splitter worked beautifully! Now I have a few questions before I go too far. I have access to a sand blaster tomorrow if I am ready.

1) Will paint stripper hurt the serial number plate? It looks like an aluminum plate with stamped numbers and some black on it? Is it ink or black anodize?

On the case halves:

1) Should I leave the crank seals and bearings in during blasting to protect those case surfaces during blasting? I would be replacing them anyway I assume.

2) Should I leave the old gasket stuck to the split face during blasting to protect it?

3) Does the trigger lock come out or can I just leave it in an blast it? It is spring loaded but appears pressed in???

Brian

 

[Brmorgan]

That's a pretty nice splitter you made there. The only improvement I could suggest is to groove it out between the stud mounting holes to make it a bit more versatile for use on other saws with different stud spacings. Good call with the coupling nut too, lots of strength to keep the bolt straight under torque.

I can't really help you with the model plate; they sort-of LOOK anodized but I wouldn't guarantee it. You could try melting some wax over it to protect it from the stripper (unless it also eats wax). If you are definitely tossing the bearings, I guess it might not be a bad idea to leave them in to protect the seats. I don't think blasting should hurt the case mating surfaces unless you have a total brain fart and sit in one spot for a long time. If the gasket comes off easily I wouldn't worry about it; otherwise blasting might be just as easy as scraping to get any still stuck on. If the trigger lock is anything like the Stihls I've worked on, the plastic button is pressed down onto a metal pin. They can be pulled back apart but it's not easy; it is kinda supposed to be a one-way trip from what I can tell.

 

[propliner]

1) Will paint stripper hurt the serial number plate? It looks like an aluminum plate with stamped numbers and some black on it? Is it ink or black anodize?

The S.N. plate can be removed. There are two tiny screws holding the plate down (they look like rivets). You just need the right size of wrench or socket, a really small one. Otherwise, I think the paint stripper will attack the black paint on it.

If blasting around the throttle lock, just cover the lock button with masking tape.

 

[briantutt]

so the only question left is the bearings. Are they easy to find new?

 

[propliner]

so the only question left is the bearings. Are they easy to find new?

Yes, any bearing shop will have them for around $6.00 each. You just need the number off the side, 6202 or something like that. Make sure you remove the dust seal off the inner side prior to installing. I'd also recommend Japanese, Canadian, U.S. or English bearings. Stay away from Chinese junk.

 

[briantutt]

Got the serial number plate off. My 10" adjustable wrench fit perfect!

BTY I did nab one of those gasket sets on Ebay so we will see what I get...

Thanks for the pointers guys! Stripper is on!

 

[DroppedP51]

got a camera for xmas

mrs told me to take some family photos
What a loving woman

 

[Arrowhead]

Nice pics! Its strange seeing green grass this time of year! We have lots of snow on the ground here. Which saw is your favorite?

 

[briantutt]

DroppedP51 Family

Made em autoload for ya. Nice family

Did my dad tighten those chains???