Poulan Pro 5020 - Anyone Seen One?

[LincTex]

I have had this saw for 2 years, and I'm afraid that if I want to keep using it I'm going to have to replace everything in the entire fuel system. It can only be because it HAS GOT TO BE because of inferior rubber and other fuel system components - - I have a variety of saws from Husqvarna, Stihl, Makita (which is a Dolmar), and Jonsered, & they all get the same exact gasoline mix from the same can, and this Poulan is the ONLY ONE that is near impossible to keep running because of fuel related issues. I did buy the special splined screwdriver to adjust the carb (this tool is absolutely 100% vital to own when owning this saw, you will use it every time!) and the gas cap swells up so you can't get it on or off. I'm just so disappointed - I know how plastics are specified in the industry, and Poulan/Electrolux could've spent just 50 cents more per saw to prevent this from happening. The ONLY reason I bought the saw was because the "core engine" itself is made by Husqvarna, but the fuel tank, fuel lines and carb attached to the engine make it worthless and unusable. No matter how good the engine is, it won't run if the fuel system isn't made with good components.

 

[Chris J.]

I have had this saw for 2 years, and I'm afraid that if I want to keep using it I'm going to have to replace everything in the entire fuel system. It can only be because it HAS GOT TO BE because of inferior rubber and other fuel system components - - I have a variety of saws from Husqvarna, Stihl, Makita (which is a Dolmar), and Jonsered, & they all get the same exact gasoline mix from the same can, and this Poulan is the ONLY ONE that is near impossible to keep running because of fuel related issues. I did buy the special splined screwdriver to adjust the carb (this tool is absolutely 100% vital to own when owning this saw, you will use it every time!) and the gas cap swells up so you can't get it on or off. I'm just so disappointed - I know how plastics are specified in the industry, and Poulan/Electrolux could've spent just 50 cents more per saw to prevent this from happening. The ONLY reason I bought the saw was because the "core engine" itself is made by Husqvarna, but the fuel tank, fuel lines and carb attached to the engine make it worthless and unusable. No matter how good the engine is, it won't run if the fuel system isn't made with good components.

Thanks for sharing your I-actually-use-this-saw experience.

I know that some folks have posted 'cures' for the gas cap, but I can't recall what they are.

 

[zogger]

Thanks for sharing your I-actually-use-this-saw experience.

I know that some folks have posted 'cures' for the gas cap, but I can't recall what they are.

Well, I know you can get ethanol resistant fuel line now, so that will fix that. As for the caps, no idea, maybe smear it with bar oil.

 

[Chris J.]

Chris-PA posted the below reply in another 5020 thread.

It's a chainsaw, there hardly is any fuel system. You've got three generic fuel lines (tank to carb, carb to bulb, bulb to tank), a ZAMA (Stihl) carb that's just like every other C1x and uses the same diaphragms, and the same fuel cap they've been putting on some Poulans for over 20 years.

The fuel lines are of indifferent quality - sometimes they last and sometimes they disintegrate, it probably depends on who they sourced them from that month. Buy a few feet and find a pair of curved forceps, and you'll be able to change the lines in a couple of minutes. The fuel caps sometimes swell, and sometimes not - new ones cost maybe $4 to $6. Get two. If you have a cap that swells store the saw on its side so the fuel is not hitting the cap.

I use nothing but E10 fuel and never drain it. I rarely have to change lines, no more than every couple of years. I've had a couple of caps that swelled but the ones I've bought to replace them don't seem to have any issues.

 

[melli]

I've had the PP 5020 for about 6yrs...I mistakenly bought the 40cc version a few years before that (you know the one with tool less chain adjuster and plastic chain brake housing). Well, the 5020 is pretty much a Husq 445/455.
Of the issues noted, I've only ran into one issue, the special tool to adjust carb. I pull out Dremel and made slots on H and L, so I can adjust with screwdriver. Problem solved (Zama has a great carb adjustment manual). Occasionally, the fuel cap does sometimes get sticky when hot, but I just put my gloves on and twist it off.
This guy did a review and although I just read it (http://www.chainsawjournal.com/poulan-pro-pp5020av-gas-chainsaw-review/) , I figured out a while back the Oregon bar and chisel chain change it from a ho-hum saw into a real meaty saw. Was more out of necessity as I dropped a log on old bar with excavator. Doh!.
Also ran over one with excavator, now I have a parts saw. Double doh! Funny enough, the saw still fired up...everything else was bent or broken.
With the Oregon bar and chain, this saw out-performs my friends Stihl. Wish I could remember the model he had. We'd raise a log in air with excavator and we'd both start at either end, and work our way to middle. We did this with several hundred logs over the years...I'd always beat him to the center.
Not bashing Stihl, as I own a lot of Stihl power tools, just not their saw (I did at one time, but it self destructed - neighbour has been trying to find parts for it ever since).
Never had fuel line issues, but I use 92 ethanol free gas.
They do go through oil like no tomorrow...that would be my biggest knock, as the 1 gallon jugs add up over time. Flipside, one will never burn their bar or chain with one of these. Always pack it in case with as little chain oil as possible.
Since I've bought two of these saws, they started out with the nice square box, then went with clam shell box. The square box is so much nicer and roomier...plus, I can stack my chainsaws with square boxes...clamshells don't stack a nicely.
I give mine a good air compressor clean after heavy use, and get the air filter while I am it. Thing starts up easily...press bulb numerous times (about 4-5), three pulls on full choke, then 1 pull on half choke and it fires up. I do this up in air, one hand on handle pushing away, and the other pulling rope. I am not beefy by any means, but the weight of machine is handy for stand up starting.
I've flogged it doing the Alaskan mill thing, with the wrong chain (chisel, not ripping chain), and it seemed ok with experience. Not keen to convert my chisel chain to a ripping chain...and still debating whether I want to throw money at a ripping chain. They are not expensive, but it is more of a "do I want to go down this road" thing. I really want a mill...
As the review says, it is an inexpensive solution, but not a cheap chainsaw...I have to agree with him. Get the Oregon bar/chain though...night and day difference. Best.