Project: Old Mickey

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I couldn't tell if it was a single or a older 2 stage. The guy I bought the splitter off of said it had a 10HP on it with the 12 GPM single stage.. I'm thinking I at least try it if it's deathly slow then I upgrade next season to a 2 stage. Anything right now is faster/easier then do it by hand.

Hmmm...I'm not familiar with any 12 GPM 2 stage pumps, so if that is accurate, I would guess it to be a single stage.

IF that holds true, you don't have anywhere near the HP it would require to generate the 2500 psi typical of most splitters. It will stall the engine long before it reaches that psi. But on the other hand, you would have decent speed, just not alot of psi.
 
OK so.. I picked up some steel.. managed to get away without selling my 1st born.. $65 for a few small pieces, I mean I know steel is getting up there on price but common.. This is the only place in town to buy where they will cut it to what you want. They charge you new steel prices exceot theirs is sitting in 2" of water most of the time.. anyway..

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Got the beast apart.. can you believe that all that was holding the cylinder on was 2 grade 5 bolts and a little booger weld.

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I still haven't found any info on the older Vickers pump.. here's the #'s if someone can help

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Finally tracked down the pump..

It's a single stage vane pump. 7.5 GPM at 1800 RPM.
 
Finally tracked down the pump..

It's a single stage vane pump. 7.5 GPM at 1800 RPM.

You will need a much larger engine than a 10HP to run that pump to 2500 psi (about average for most splitters). This is where a 2 stage pump shines.
 
yeah it's says 3200RPM for 2500 PSI.. can't remember the specs on the Honda but that seems like alot.. Ohwell it's a work in progress, I stopped by the parts store today to get some pricing on fittings and lines. Hopefully have it mocked up by the end of the weekend.
 
yeah it's says 3200RPM for 2500 PSI.. can't remember the specs on the Honda but that seems like alot.. Ohwell it's a work in progress, I stopped by the parts store today to get some pricing on fittings and lines. Hopefully have it mocked up by the end of the weekend.

RPM doesn't make PSI it makes flow. HP makes PSI. The faster it spins - the more fluid flows. The HARDER you can turn it - the more PSI you can make. Hope that makes sense.
 
yeah I understand.. still trying to figure all the hydraulic stuff out..

what do you think about this pump. says it requires 8.1 HP for 3000PSI

http://cgi.ebay.ca/Hydraulic-Gear-P...ic_Hydraulic_Valves_Parts&hash=item4150d835d8

Looks good. Something to consider is your cylinder. At 3.5" - you will have a very good cycle time. At 5" - it will be slow. I run a 5" at 2750 psi with a 8HP B&S on a 16 gpm pump. Average cycle times. With a 10HP Honda, you will be able to run a 16GPM (2 stage) pretty easy.
 
Looks good. Something to consider is your cylinder. At 3.5" - you will have a very good cycle time. At 5" - it will be slow. I run a 5" at 2750 psi with a 8HP B&S on a 16 gpm pump. Average cycle times. With a 10HP Honda, you will be able to run a 16GPM (2 stage) pretty easy.

I've sent the seller a question about shipping costs. if it's reasonable I'll see if he has a 16 GPM and it'll be in the mail. It's an 11 HP too Jags, I don't think honda makes a 10
 
I've sent the seller a question about shipping costs. if it's reasonable I'll see if he has a 16 GPM and it'll be in the mail. It's an 11 HP too Jags, I don't think honda makes a 10

Yeah, your right on the 11HP - I was more focused on the pump. Go with the 16 - you won't be sorry. Even for a few extra bean pods, its the better choice when you look at the long run.
 
Well I took all the hoses apart so I could re-use the fittings.. I started to cut off the Wedge when I ran out of oxygen for the torches.. those little tanks don't last very long.

I priced out new fittings and hose today .. I can get new hoses made for about $100 or I can buy just a length of hose for about 70$.. I like the idea of having the reuseable fittings but for $30 to have some do all the work seem nice too, just have to make sure my lengths are right.. time will tell
 
..

Spent about 1hr cutting that damm Wedge of.. It wasn't straight anf had to go. looked like it was booger welded but they had good penatration, still not alot consodering whats coming at it. The I beam seems abit tweaked when the wedge was, I'm glad I planned on plating it..

You have no idea how many chains I went through getting this thing off!!:dizzy:

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Cutting 1" plate on a wooden floor aren't the best combo

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IN this picture you can see where the 4 welds where. I'm going to burn mine on.

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So here she are..

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here's the piece I bought to plate the top.. you can see how bent it is mostly where ti wedge was,,

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So after it was all done I decieded to " mock up" the splitter..

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I just didn't feel right so I swapped sides... still seems off..

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Anyone have any ideas?
 
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However you decide to arrange it, make sure the muffler is pointing away from the operator area. It will reduce noise and breathing the fumes.

Review your hose and valve layout, that may influence your placement decision as well.
 
However you decide to arrange it, make sure the muffler is pointing away from the operator area. It will reduce noise and breathing the fumes.

Review your hose and valve layout, that may influence your placement decision as well.


thats the reason I flipped the engine to the other side. I wanted the muffler as far away from me as possible. I'm not to worried about hose and fitting I have several different length and re-useable fittings..
I haven't had much time to work on it lately to many other things on the go. My wood should be dropped off any day so I gotta get my butt in gear.
 
I had an hour tonight to work on Ole Mickey. I stripped soem parts off the pumps, measured the inside of the pivots on the cyl so I can buy some tubing tomorrow. I thought UI should maybe actually check the travel of the cyl. so I could make sure I mount it in the correct location. I can't get that thing to move! is that a good thing or a bad thing?
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Do you have any reason to believe that the inside might have rusted a little? If not, it is probably just "set". Keep in mind that those seals are pretty tight to hold back thousands of PSI.
 

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