Question about Mac 10-10

[Brian S]

I acquired a very clean, almost new Pro-Mac 10-10 locally for $30.00. With some fresh mix and cursing I had it running in about 20 minutes. Only real problems are need of a carb rebuild, rewind and clean out the recoil, and the fuel line is disentegrating.

My question to anyone who has worked on 10-10's, should I purchase a new molded rubber fuel line or make a new one from tygon and run it through a section of the old rubber line at the rear of the tank. In effect I would use the old line as a rubber grommet or bulkhead and run the fresh tygon through the middle, probably use some gas proof gasket maker as a sealant between the tygon and rubber.

Advice is welcomed.

Thanks,
Brian

 

[hoss]

Either way would be good as long as the grommet idea works snugly. If you can find the molded line easily I'd go that way. Is this an early 10-10 or later model? I have an early one and like it. Loud but good power for this size class.

 

[tomdcoker]

Check out auto parts stores. They have small packs of grommets. You should find one that will work. If you buy a NOS line it will possible be dry rotted. Tom

 

[Brian S]

It is a newer model, 12 prefix on the model number, has left hand start, electronic ignition, auto oiler with manual override. Came to me with almost all the paint still on the original bar, original mac stamped chain, no wear on the rim sprocket and the cylinder and piston look new and still crosshatched.


I suspect the only reason the seller sold it was the sin of leaving fuel in it for 3 years and then trying to start it. I got the impression that the previous owner (who acquired it from a parent) believed it to be a real turd, because their new Ryobi is much easier to start.......

It IS loud. Also much easier to work on than what some nay-sayers have posted on the board, and it is of good quality too, looks fairly bulletproof.

 

[hoss]

It IS loud. Also much easier to work on than what some nay-sayers have posted on the board, and it is of good quality too, looks fairly bulletproof.[/QUOTE]


Yes

 

[bobbyb13]

EPAY now

Guy on Epay has the new formed fuel lines. I got two for my 10-10's and they are after market but work well. Aw just forget that part and sent the old thing to me. I'll take it off your hands to save you all the time and expense. I'll even pay the shipping!:monkey:

 

[Brian S]

I'll take it off your hands to save you all the time and expense. I'll even pay the shipping!:monkey:

Uhh, thats a negative Ghostrider the pattern is full.

I'm keeping this one!

 

[lawnmowertech37]

bryan are you looking for OEM fuel line for the 10-10 ?

 

[Brian S]

bryan are you looking for OEM fuel line for the 10-10 ?

Yes, I found a local seller that has some in stock, says they are "stens" new production. Seems like a good deal.. Or is it?

 

[Brian S]

Update on 10-10

Well, after repairing all the other problems this saw had I resealed the tank and it gave me fits! First I tried Permatex type 1 because it is "gasoline resistant" didn't work, after I let it cure I fueled it up and tried it out. It started leaking immediatly so I took it apart and the permatex was almost a liquid goo. Turns out that it is gasoline proof, but not alcohol, and all our gas here is at least 10% ethanol. I tried a second product called Devcon Metal patch, and same problem it is also not alcohol resistant. So I tried one more time with a product called "Seal All" which I got from Auto Zone. It is gas and alcohol proof, in fact the only thing that can touch it is acetone. So after struggling with the fuel tank seal and winning I finally got to run the saw proper style.

My investmet is so far-

$30 saw
$10 carb kit
$8 fuel line
$10 new sawdust guard
$20 two new chains
$6 sealant
-----------
$84.00

I'm real happy with the results, it compliments my Echo CS440 really well. I know a single, lighter and more powerful saw could replace both- but thats both out of my budget and not as rewarding as fixing old stuff. Also I like to carry two saws out to cut in case the worst happens!

Below are some pics.

 

[volks-man]

saw looks good.
good job gettin it going!
my boss has an old mac 10-10 just like it (but worn) that he swears by.


p.s. in the last pic, are you ripping that log from the top like you would split it?

 

[Brian S]

Yeah, I had a truck load of 14-16" rounds that are too green to split by hand, and I don't have a splitter, so I rip them up with the saw in half so they season faster and are easier to handle and stack into the racks.

 

[volks-man]

Yeah, I had a truck load of 14-16" rounds that are too green to split by hand, and I don't have a splitter, so I rip them up with the saw in half so they season faster and are easier to handle and stack into the racks.

i find that ripping from the round side is way faster and easier on the saw.
instead of the 'dust' that you get ripping from the top, you get 'noodles' when ripping from the side. some people use the noodles to start fires and mulch plants, ect.

saw looks good though.
nice score.

 

[Brian S]

i find that ripping from the round side is way faster and easier on the saw.
instead of the 'dust' that you get ripping from the top, you get 'noodles' when ripping from the side. some people use the noodles to start fires and mulch plants, ect.

saw looks good though.
nice score.

I go both ways, if I had a better sawbuck or stand or something I would do them from the side all the time. Thanks for the compliment on the saw!