Questions about buying a chainsaw mill

[nitecrawler]

Long time reader, first time poster.

First of all I have to say that this forum is exceptional! The information contained within is very informative and helpful, thankyou for hours of reading enjoyment.

I have finally decided to buy a 36 inch alaskan from baileys but before I make my purchase I would like some advice on what type of bar to get, what type of ripping chain is best to use, what pitch etc. I currently have s stihl 660 with a 3/8 -8z rim sprocket with a 24 inch bar and a 3/8 pitch standard chain. Do I need to upgrade the sprocket or is this fine? This will only be a hobby, although I can see myself getting hooked on this very quickly.

 

[dustytools]

Long time reader, first time poster.

First of all I have to say that this forum is exceptional! The information contained within is very informative and helpful, thankyou for hours of reading enjoyment.

I have finally decided to buy a 36 inch alaskan from baileys but before I make my purchase I would like some advice on what type of bar to get, what type of ripping chain is best to use, what pitch etc. I currently have s stihl 660 with a 3/8 -8z rim sprocket with a 24 inch bar and a 3/8 pitch standard chain. Do I need to upgrade the sprocket or is this fine? This will only be a hobby, although I can see myself getting hooked on this very quickly.

The ripping chain that Baileys carries is what myself and many others here use. Ive had real good luck with it and their price is hard to beat as well. You may want to try out a seven tooth rim sprocket and see if that isnt any better than the eight tooth, then again the eight tooth may work well for you. The 3/8 pitch will also work well. What lenght bar do you plan on buying? The last couple of bars that I have bought are the Oregon Power Match which Baileys also carries and so far they are holding up very well. Good luck with your milling ventures!

 

[oldsaw]

If you want to make use of all of the 36" mill, you will need a 42" bar. If you can get by with less, get a 36" bar. I've got both, if you want just one milling bar, get the 42". You will want a 7 tooth sprocket for bigger wood.

If you are ordering from Baileys, the PowerMatch bars are good as Dusty said. I've been very happy with mine, and I'm not a big Oregon bar guy. While you are there, the Woodsman Pro rip chain works well, get 2 or 3 loops to fit. On my 066, I needed 136 links, not 135. Just a note.

You will need a guide for your first cut. I've still got the 2x8 that I started with. I wanted a x10, but the ones at the lumberyard that day weren't straight. I've got an extension ladder section ready to go, just have to work out an attachment system for it. I've pretty much got it worked out in my head. The x8 works well enough that I haven't been in a hurry with the other one. Lots of options here.

Get the auxiliary oiler as well. They recommend it on bars over 30 or 36", and I wouldn't leave home without it.

Go to synthetic oil in your mix. Good insurance. Milling is rough on a powerhead. Also remember to let it cool down a bit before shutting it down after each cut. I let it idle while I'm getting the board off and stacked, then run it again. Then idle it before shutdown for refueling. Doesn't take much.

The learning curve is really steep, and there are many posts to help you out. Dustytools, Woodshop, and Aggiewoodbutcher are some of the best, but there are more. Search their posts out.

Most important thing is to have fun.

Mark

 

[Haywire Haywood]

The learning curve is really steep, and there are many posts to help you out. Dustytools, Woodshop, and Aggiewoodbutcher are some of the best, but there are more.

Mark

Yep, lots to learn out there about milling if you want to get technical with it. I haven't advanced beyond flat sawing. I know what quartersawn is, but get into riftsawn and the other terms and you lose me immediately.

Ian

 

[wdchuck]

nitecrawler...welcome to AS.

+ 1 to what the guys have said.

 

[woodshop]

Welcome to AS. As oldsaw says, don't go into the field milling without at least one or two extra chains. Once they start to get dull, they will cut but painfully slow, and it will be that much harder on your saw and bar.

btw, it does vary depending on the saw and bar length etc, but I crank my oiler output on my Husky 395XP to max flow, and there is always oil on my chain with my 36" bar even when milling the max width, 32 inches. Point being you may not HAVE to get the aux oiler. Sure wouldn't hurt any though and some guys here swear by them. I just have never needed one yet. If I went to a larger bar I probably would.

 

[Zodiac45]

You will need a guide for your first cut. I've still got the 2x8 that I started with. I wanted a x10, but the ones at the lumberyard that day weren't straight. I've got an extension ladder section ready to go, just have to work out an attachment system for it. I've pretty much got it worked out in my head. The x8 works well enough that I haven't been in a hurry with the other one. Lots of options here.


Most important thing is to have fun.

Mark

I'm using a extension ladder section also. Guitarborist posted a quick and easy attachment and leveling system that I made a copy of using some hardwood rails and carriage bolts. The wing nuts and wide washer hold to the ladder. I need to drill these holes yet but you get the idea.

 

[oldsaw]

I'm using a extension ladder section also. Guitarborist posted a quick and easy attachment and leveling system that I made a copy of using some hardwood rails and carriage bolts. The wing nuts and wide washer hold to the ladder. I need to drill these holes yet but you get the idea.

Yeah, I liked the leveling thing, could be handy. On bigger logs I've historically just used a rafter square to cant out 1/2 or 3/4 of the log, then take some weight off of it, roll it and do some more. Works well. Depends on weight and landscape.

Guitarborist's picture got me thinking about it again.

Mark

 

[Nikko]

I use a 10' section of old extension ladder (rails were cleaned and waxed) and to attach it with a couple of pieces of angle iron that I screw into the but ends of the log with deck screws. I start with a center screw in each of the the angle iron pieces, set the ladder on top, level things out and then put another couple of screws in to make sure stuff stays where I want it to. The ladder is then clamped onto the angle iron using some small C-clamps. The ladder can be slid back to give a starting platform, and then slid down later to give a leaving platform for the mill.

Simple and cheap.

Oh - the angle iron is 1 1/4". This way, if I need to elevate one end of the ladder on blocks to get it parallel with the pith, I can rough-cut a flat spot on the log, screw down a piece of 2x stock and the angle can mount to the side of the 2x stock with no interference.

Nikko

 

[guitarborist]

Nice looking ladder mounts Zodiac45, very clean.

If you do not need to use a longer bar than the 24" stay with that. You can always expand in the future. The shorter the bar the the less power needed, less teeth tho sharpen, better oiling ect... You probably could mill a 28" log with a 24" bar.

 

[Stihl-in-Ky]

So far my 066 with 36" bar has oiled just fine while milling the last cant was 20" and had plenty of oil on the chain with oiler turned to max.I do have an aux oiler but dont think I need it yet.

 

[Adkpk]

This will only be a hobby, although I can see myself getting hooked on this very quickly.

nitecrowler has good foresight. :hmm3grin2orange: Welcome to the site!