As long as you're not getting a big loose buildup in the exhaust port or piston top it should be fine. I'd much rather have to clean the carbon out once a year over replacing the crank and top end cause the big end was dry and come apart. Rebuilt a few like that and all was running 50:1 synthetic.
Request General advice on 372XP
- Thread starter Roofgunner
- Start date
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sunfish
Fish Head
I'm running Stihl Ultra & Husky XP oil at between 32:1-40:1 and getting no carbon build up. No way I'd run less oil than 40:1 in my saws.
saws work hard even in the softest hands....they tend to run at constant speed...wot loaded...I think more oil would be a prudent thing. I have run........I'm not even getting into it...oil is cheep.....no no I can't...must resist another oil thread....have you tried...
good luck enjoy
sap can
good luck enjoy
sap can
Roofgunner
ArboristSite Member
I ran the 50 to one oil mix with the Amsoil Sabre. The plugs got really black, oily and the mufflers sooted up in both saws. The the 445 was hard to start and the idling dropped. Therefore since I use one mixture for two Echo weed eaters (one being a PS280), a lawn Boy commercial mower, and the two saws with THIS oil.(I had a lawn boy that ran from 1989 until 2012 on the 100 to 1 until it was destroyed in the building fire.) I'm going with the 80 to one mix ratio. I've never had a failure in anything using 100 to one so I'm sure 80 to one will work in the 372xp.
If your plug is wet and oily, then the saw is not tuned correctly. Even 32:1 will not do that.
Really hard to compare 2 strokes from vastly different worlds especially when water cooled compared to a very hot chainsaw run in the summer... More oil and if you are that worried about carbon deposits make a routine of removing the muffler and on a complete tear down polish the exhaust port. My 2 cents ...40-1
Bill... PS I also ran Klotz in my 450 Maico back in the day
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Bill... PS I also ran Klotz in my 450 Maico back in the day
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
malk315
Running Saws for Therapy
I have a 372XP X-torq model and love it. I use Husky XP oil (only sold at dealers) 1 gallon mix and mix it up 0.9 gallons to get 45:1 to favor the oil a little bit. I use 93 octane gas.
When starting warm and it's only been off for very short time, I just start it -- never a problem.
When starting warm but it's been off for several minutes and had a chance to cool, but not at cold start, I pull the choke and push it back in to set high idle and it will always start on 1st or second pull. Revs up nice and pulse trigger to clear high idle and go to work.
A couple times when luke warm like that I had done several pulls and it would run and quit, pull it run a little longer and quit, and then on next fire it would run and keep going... it can be annoying. The high idle set always works in that strange "partially warm" area at least for me! Since learning that I never start the saw on more than 2 pulls when warm.
Cold start I do the usual pull choke, pull until it fires (the "pop" I think they like to call it). Push choke in and by no more than 2nd pull it's running at high idle.
I've run 24" bars full comp and 28" skip tooth when doing to larger felling. Always smiling.
Helped out at a job one our friends who does tree work full time. Nothing better then cutting and after a bit step back and realize you can start measuring the chips in cubic yards!
Good luck.
Brad if you read this I'm curious why you seem to avoid X-torq 372s. Have you ported any 372 X-torq models? Any good success? I had a hard time finding anyone testing out older 372 and 372 X-torq that reported they didn't like the performance of the X-torq model. So I went ahead w/ purchasing 372XP X-torq brand new. Usually the comments are they notice it uses less fuel when comparing. I guess weight is another thing -- the X-torq body is wider than the older 372XP non X-torq model if I remember right.
When starting warm and it's only been off for very short time, I just start it -- never a problem.
When starting warm but it's been off for several minutes and had a chance to cool, but not at cold start, I pull the choke and push it back in to set high idle and it will always start on 1st or second pull. Revs up nice and pulse trigger to clear high idle and go to work.
A couple times when luke warm like that I had done several pulls and it would run and quit, pull it run a little longer and quit, and then on next fire it would run and keep going... it can be annoying. The high idle set always works in that strange "partially warm" area at least for me! Since learning that I never start the saw on more than 2 pulls when warm.
Cold start I do the usual pull choke, pull until it fires (the "pop" I think they like to call it). Push choke in and by no more than 2nd pull it's running at high idle.
I've run 24" bars full comp and 28" skip tooth when doing to larger felling. Always smiling.
Helped out at a job one our friends who does tree work full time. Nothing better then cutting and after a bit step back and realize you can start measuring the chips in cubic yards!
Good luck.
Brad if you read this I'm curious why you seem to avoid X-torq 372s. Have you ported any 372 X-torq models? Any good success? I had a hard time finding anyone testing out older 372 and 372 X-torq that reported they didn't like the performance of the X-torq model. So I went ahead w/ purchasing 372XP X-torq brand new. Usually the comments are they notice it uses less fuel when comparing. I guess weight is another thing -- the X-torq body is wider than the older 372XP non X-torq model if I remember right.
